Alaskan_Son

You can still do that by placing a point and using Rotate/Resize About Current Point. Just switch to the RRACP edit mode, place your point, and then use the Resize edit mode (X).

If you're talking about closed poylines, here's a trick you can use. This is a pretty good one...

See if this help at all. This video also includes a tip for deleting extra nodes along a single line (not around a corner)...

All very good advice Mark and I know this starting to get a little off subject, but few other things I would add that I'm sure you know but didn't specifically address... Look out for adjacent cabinet handles too. Those can be even worse than the protruding countertop. Don't forget about the ventilation space ABOVE the cabinet. Many refrigerators require that space. I like to add a little wooden grille to match the cabinets at that spot. And a couple other tips: Whenever possible I like to add a furred wall or create a recessed area in the wall behind the fridge to allow for a standard depth refrigerator that doesn't stick out into the room. With regard to the required airspace behind the fridge: Problem here is that it is very easy for the fridge to get pushed back too far and end up in a situation where the doors either cannot be opened, or they can open but end up damaging the doors or the cabinetry in the process. A few years back I started addressing this by affixing a foam block to the back of the fridge about 2 ft. up off the floor...even a couple small foam blocks. Just something that doesn't obstruct airflow but keeps the refrigerator from getting pushed too far back... ...You know, now that I think about this, this all really isn't off subject at all. This all just emphasizes why some of us think its much wiser to place these appliances manually. If you're actually designing the kitchen I would go so far as to say its an absolute must if you really want to make sure and cover your basis. If you're just throwing cabinets in as filler items...maybe not so much...that's where just dropping them into the cabinets might come into play. The only appliance I typically add to the cabinet is the dishwasher.

Wow, I don't see how you could work without them. I only turn them off for the rarest of situations.

I pretty much always make the opening the proper size and then place the appliance manually. FAR more accurate and controllable that way.

I was assuming he was talking about closed polylines and breaking them into multiple closed polylines. We can do that too though using boolean operations and very thin or even zero width polylines.

You know what would really be nice? Group select pages in Project Browser>right click>Referenced Files. Couldn’t get much quicker than that. Add in the ability to Copy and paste the selected pages per the original suggestion and we’re really in business.

Ya, but like I said, that might be marginally useful at best. The keywords are one of those things that may or may not do any good at all unless you write them yourself There are countless tile patterns, countless tile sizes (or worse...combinations thereof), countless textures (and combinations thereof)... Find me a medium format, long skinny 1/3 offset horizontal white marble bricklay tile with 1/8" grout lines and a coordinating small format multicolored listello strip that also has a sort of horizontal feel going on (don't want any herringbone, little square tiles, octagons, circles, or anything like that)...and the accent tiles needs to have some dark grays in there as well. Seriously though...please don't find that for me. I actually don't need that right now. Just sayin'...using keywords is a whole lot easier said than done and as I mentioned before, other sites use that sort of system and I'm not sure it does any good at all much of the time. In fact, oftentimes it does just as much harm as it does good.

Strange indeed. Very easily reproducible. Looks like its only an issue with piers drawn in previous versions. All new piers behave just fine. You're not doing anything wrong. Please send this in to tech support so they can get it fixed.

Just FYI, that particular sofa has some VERY unusual problems with its 3D geometry and its behaviors in general. Something definitely wrong with it. It can be fixed but its not at all normal.

Thank you for posting a plan file. Describe exactly how you would like to change the objects and I'll see if I can't help you out.

I was referring to the actual plan file and not a screen shot. Anyway, that may all be a mot point as it appears you may be using one of the Home Designer products which are lacking many of the capabilities available in Chief Architect Premier. This is a prime example of why creating a good informative signature line is important. I would suggest you head over to the Home Designer forum... https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/?_fromLogin=1

You're welcome Perry.

You can change the layer set using the Layout Box layers tool.

Sounds to me like you just aren't using the View Draw Order edit tools quite right. Post the plan for a quicker and more accurate answer though.

Yes, you do need to resend. The layout boxes forever remember those 2 Edge Line and Pattern Line settings as they were originally sent (checked vs. unchecked). For this reason, I think Chief should cause those 2 options to be grayed out in the Layout Box Specification dialog when those settings were unchecked during the Send To Layout process. They're just confusing otherwise because they won't do anything.

We already can actually. Check your Ridge Caps tab. For the Rake tiles check your Shadow Boards tab. Just create and assign a molding symbol.

I guess I would assume otherwise. Those programs typically keep working a lot longer than that. I mean there are people still using pre-X versions of Chief and only fairly recently have they started to have any notable problems. I guess I'm not very familiar with Macs though either. Maybe they're less friendly than Windows in this regard.

I would really just consider sticking with Quickbooks. Its really not one of those programs that needs to be updated very often. I'd venture to guess you'd be fine using that same version for a number of years still. I say stick with what you know and just plan on not upgrading later. Who knows, maybe they'll change their mind in a few years or something better will come out.

Not that I know of. Its not totally random though. The arc draws clockwise from the Start of the line to the End of the line. I guess if you're dealing with an open polyline you could use the Reverse Direction tool to control which way the arc draws.

Yep. Good additional tip. A couple other notes while we're on that subject: That setting will only recognize the line settings for object with a Line Style tab. They will not recognize other line type settings such as the line types we can set in the wall definition dialog. If you uncheck Use Layer Settings you will get no lines at all in plan but in layout all surface lines will be drawn black with a line weight of zero.

Nice illustration Eric.

This^^^^ is what I would recommend as well if you really need or want to use a symbol and its CAD block, but there are at least a couple other options... Just use your original primitives, set their line styles appropriately, and block them (Architectural Block). Explode your custom CAD block, and while all items are still selected, convert to molding polyline and re-block (Architectural Block). Select your already created custom symbol and block that as well, open the block, and uncheck Display Sub Objects. Now place the 2 on top of each other and block them. NOTE: There are a couple other methods of getting the symbol's lines not to display as well, but I think the above is the quickest, easiest, and least likely to cause problems with layers and other views. 60 Prefab Wall with Cap (modified).plan

Just tested out the extra ceiling plane method and that DOES work. Its a little tricky though as you have to lock your original trusses (no special snapping and lock truss envelope), draw the ceiling plane, and temporarily change your ceiling settings. Not a bad method though. Could be faster than modifying the truss profiles depending on how complicated the roof is and how many truss profiles you have to deal with.