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Everything posted by Alaskan_Son
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I appreciate you asking but if I post it here in the forum you can always assume you’re free to use and share it unless I specifically state otherwise. On a side note though, I also do welcome and appreciate donations if you ever find any of my offerings valuable enough to you. It helps to offset the time it’s takes to answer questions, post tips, create custom content, and produce tutorial videos amongst other things. Anyway, there’s my plug. Have a good rest of your night
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I'd be very curious to see that first plan. I suspect you did something differently. Too many variables to guess at though. BTW, this kind of thing can totally be done with the sill but it requires some relatively advanced symbol manipulation techniques. I don't have time to get into it right now, but here's a quick sample plan that includes the 5 symbol generations it took to create the final 3D molding symbol (polyline solids>fixture>1/2 height fixture using bounding box>molding symbol>molding symbol with modified origins and bounding box)... Sill example.plan
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Sounds like you must be using some relatively large bits to speed up production? I’m just curious...Are you using a good panel optimization software? I assume you are, just wondering because I’ve never actually heard anyone mention a notable disparity due to that last 5/8”. Something else I’m wondering too...Around here I don’t know that we can get a lot of hardwood sheet goods in anything other than 4x8 sheets. Are you saying you lose a full 2-1/4” on all of those too? That really sounds like a lot of waste. Seems like adding a panel saw to the mix might pay for itself, no?
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Oh ya, just to be clear, we’ve used all sorts of custom base cabinet depths but the vast majority have been 24”.
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For the past 6 or 7 years all our cabinetry has been custom built locally and the vast majority has been face frame. The shop that we used for most of it during that time used a panel saw so waste was negligible. In other words, 24” was not inefficient. Having said that, the other shop we use has a CNC machine but I don’t think 24” deep was a problem there either...at least not for face frames. I think the 24” depth is really only inefficient for CNC shops and even then...mostly just for frameless. Even if the box is dadoed into the face frame, that’s still only a 23-5/8” panel...MAX. That leaves 3/4” for router bit loss even for 48” sheet goods. Plus...some sheet goods can be had in 49” widths so...that brings me back to thinking it’s only CNC shops that don’t use a panel saw that should have that problem, and only when working with 48” sheet goods.
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Bottom line is that Linda needs to use multiple material definitions. I mentioned Material Regions in my first response, and then a few more alternatives were added to the list but the rest of you guys, but the most important aspect wasn't the object being used but the fact that she needs to use multiple objects and multiple materials. For all intents and purposes the only real difference between the Wall Coverings and Material Regions in this case is the extra depth in 3D (if the user even sets that properly).
- 18 replies
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- shower wall
- tile patterns
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(and 2 more)
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...or more specifically... NOTE: Eric's answer was fine but I had already started posting.
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There are 3 in the ChiefSiding.pat file that you could use: 167, 168, and 193. I believe the one Chief uses OOB is 167.
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Just resurrecting this old thread because I stumbled on a way to update the preview without closing out the dialog box. if you toggle Show Origin after making your changes, the preview will properly update. I guess I never noticed it before because I usually just toggle the Preview on before making any adjustments and then just leave it on.
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See if this helps you with regard to the gable vs. hip problem... Don't have time to get into the parapet wall thing right now but yes, that is totally doable by manually reshaping the wall polyline, by using roof planes to automatically cut the wall polyline, by using polyline solids, or by using primitives among other things.
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Don't do that. Wear that thing like a badge of honor. Our society sure doesn't honor age like it should... The glory of young men is their strength, And the splendor of old men is their gray head. ~Proverbs 20:29
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Are your Temporary Dimensions toggled on? You can check this in your Toggle Modes toolbar or under View>Temporary Dimensions.
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Those are your various Extensions. Go into Preferences or Edit>Snap Settings and make sure not only that your snaps are turned on but that you Tangent Extensions, Perpendicular Extensions, and Orthogonal Extensions are also all toggled on. This is a sreenshot from X10 but X6 wasn't much different if I recall correctly...
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Watch my video and you'll probably understand better but its not the material per se rather its the material TYPE as I mentioned over in that other thread.
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Sorry, there was a problem during the upload process. Try it again.
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Here's a quick video...
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Here's a quick video...
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I'll make you a quick video...Please hold
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Or you could also use Wall Coverings.
- 18 replies
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- shower wall
- tile patterns
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(and 2 more)
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You should really post the plan. Otherwise we could sit here guessing at things all day long.
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Check to make sure you have an actual FRAMING material type assigned in the Structure definition.
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I don't think you're missing anything and I don't believe there's any way to control those particular lines on a layer set by layer set basis. Seems like those should be user controllable though one way or another. Seems like they should just get their own layer maybe just like we have for Opening Header Lines.
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The way I typically handle that is by using multiple Wall Material Regions and multiple materials. So, for your example you may end up needing up to 7 wall material regions and 7 materials. Really not very hard to do.
- 18 replies
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- shower wall
- tile patterns
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(and 2 more)
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Those are a couple possibilities but one I have seen much more commonly is one where you get the drawing showing up super small way off in the opposite corner of the line work that you do see. Best way to find that stuff is to turn on all layers, hit Control+A, hit F6, and then check the borders (most likely one of the corners).
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The sill profile is part of the window itself, and just to verify, Eric's example has the same problem you mentioned earlier but its not noticeable due to the thickness of his siding.