Alaskan_Son

I know guys that do a lot of heavy rendering use the tool to essentially lock their perspective. Then they can zoom in or out and pan the camera without affecting what's actually in the camera's view. Me personally? I use it to inspect and modify very small or very narrow 3D geometry. Like an Orthographic overview, it allows us to zoom in infinitely close but unlike an Orthographic view it also allows us access to internal elements. I also use it to inspect and modify patterns and textures. Its a very handy tool for sure.

Learning what they are and how to use them might not be such a bad idea either. By the way, I love them and I use Temporary Points (both auto and manual) almost every session. I just assigned the Delete Temporary Points tool to a hotkey (the minus sign on my number pad). The + key is Place Point Marker tool, and the forward slash right next to them is the Rotate/Resize About Point toggle.

My youngest is home sick today and the rest of the family left to a Christmas get together so I decided to step into the office for a bit and putz around while he takes a nap on the couch. Here's a little video with some of my thoughts on the matter. Hope you all have a wonderful Christmas

The key to those instructions is the last 3 words...

Have to add it to you toolbar yourself via Customize Toolbars or assign a hotkey. The tool is still there, just been devalued and removed from the dropdown. I’m guessing it will remain as a sort of Legacy feature so that old plans continue to work, but that it will otherwise be left to slowly decompose until it’s only the stuff of legend.

According to the plan you posted, those layer sets are all still in there.

I think this is the key to your whole entire issue. I would really look very carefully into which folder is being used for your Archives, where that folder is located, how that folder is being accessed, what your Auto Archive settings are, and what your Auto Save settings are. If for example you're using One Drive and you lose your internet connection temporarily, your files may not get backed up. In addition, your files won't get backed up if you have Auto Save toggled off. And your files also may not get backed up in time if you have Auto Save set to too high a value.

It really is. There are a lot of things you can avoid drafting if you both model things correctly and learn to use the right tools. For example, making use of the Auto Detail tool, making use of cross section cameras, learning to break section cut lines and use backclip settings, adding CAD to live elevations as necessary, using CAD Detail From View, using CAD masks, using the Edit Layout Lines tool, using appropriate Layer Display settings, etc. etc. We'll always have a little drafting to do, but the more proficient you become with the tools we have available, the less work you'll have to do in the 2D department.

Better yet, just move the standard lock down to the same height as the doorknob. Or make a very small symbol and do the same thing with that. Or, maybe even cooler, create a custom symbol that mimics the lock button/turny thing and do the same thing with that.

I have a handful of specific tricks I use, but for all intents and purposes, I typically do the same thing. These are a few of my most common go-to methods for these situations though... Use small room dividers to force a break at a specific location. It's best to find your desired snap point and then start drawing your room divider away from any other walls and then drag it to the wall, otherwise the room divider will usually try to snap to the same joint you're trying to avoid using. Use the Edit Wall Layer Intersections tool Use a Room Divider that is set to .01" thick to actually stop the walls from joining at all. Basically you draw that room divider parallel to your exterior wall and maybe .01" away, then your interior wall runs into the room divider and never makes it to the exterior wall. For the interior wall, use a very small section of the same wall type drawn perpendicular to itself to create a sort of end cap. This can also provide a more controlled stop point and give additional wall intersection options. Use multiple walls. For example, use 3 walls instead of one...a drywall layer wall, a framing layer wall, and then another drywall layer wall. When using this method, you also have additional options with regard to the following 2 items... Use the Partition Wall setting Use the No Room Definition setting Anyway, don;t have time to get into all the nuances of each, but those are a few of my methods off the top.

Amen. I appreciate you always chiming in with the correct website for HD users. I really think people who try to help them here and who encourage them to follow this forum and really unwittingly doing these guys a huge disservice. The vast majority of the time, the advice they're given by Chief users here simply won't work in HD. And very few HD users have any clue how to filter through the information here. They could spend all day looking for a tool or capability they don't even have.

it depends ENTIRELY on how accurate your model is and whether you configure all the various settings appropriately or not so that the material list can properly report what you want it to and how you want it to. Quick example... Forget to actually frame the floor system and your floor framing portion of the estimate will be completely wrong. Or, frame and model everything perfectly and set your walls not to report to the material list and your wall framing portion of the estimate will be totally wrong. All modeling and settings done correctly and appropriately, I’ve found Chief to be quite accurate. There are a few areas where their calculation methods are a little debatable, but all within an acceptable margin of error as far as I’m concerned.

Away from my computer, but as I recall, you don’t get boxed eves unless soffits are turned on. You can turn them on and use a Gap material type though.

I tend to agree for the most part. I personally model a lot of things from scratch myself as well. For these block walls though, I typically just adjust the vertical offsets of the one material definition and call it good. I don't worry about the top of the wall or how the blocks look on the ends...not that important. Having said that, adjusting the material definitions is a lot faster than modeling each wall from scratch IMO.

Your question is super confusing then. Why the following reference? Your thread title made it sound like you were talking about the view title itself and then you said the above thing about "north" and multiple "directions", and then you circled the whole entire thing which included another object entirely (the callout), and then you you called the auto generated label a "callout". To get some better assistance, I would highly recommend you try to A; clarify things a little better, and B; use Chief's terminology whenever you possibly can. When I start to describe to someone how to achieve any given task or ask a question of my own, I will pretty commonly open look back at Chief and double check what their exact terminology is just so I don't confuse matters. Anyway, just to clarify, this is a Layout Box Label... This is a Callout... There is no default callout that gets generated when sending to layout. Only a Default Label As Chop already mentioned, you have to place the callout and title yourself. Most people just create a CAD Block like Chop did, position it accordingly and modify as necessary for any given view. The macros he used are some pretty standard built in macros that are very simple to use and that reference information placed by the user (you) into the layout page information fields... ...and the compass rose is really quite easy to create with our various CAD tools. Sorry, it's not the most in-depth and I kinda raced through a few things, but here's a quick custom tutorial video and custom "Compass Rose" CAD Block on the house. Merry Christmas... Compass Rose.calibz

David, there is a difference between most screen sharing/video conferencing apps and dedicated remote desktop apps. The former require some involvement from users on both ends and even then don’t typically allow for the same unfettered access that a true remote desktop app does. The latter on the other hand can be set up to access and operate an unmanned computer from another computer in a different location.

Are you talking about the compass rose or the view title or the callout, or...?

It seems pretty obvious to me from the OP that he or she is talking about the way The CMU material does not appear as it would in real life. The first block for example should start right on top of the footing and there should be a whole block on one end of the wall. In addition, the top of the wall wouldn’t have a seam in it. In order to get a more realistic representation, a person could do any number of things, but what I would likely lean toward doing myself is painting a unique material onto each wall and then adjusting the material definition to move the texture and pattern offsets. Simply adjusting the vertical texture and pattern offsets should get you most of the way there. If you want the ends to be accurate it would require multiple materials… One for each wall. For the top of the wall you would have to cap it with something and use yet another material definition for each wall. Either that or just use a series of p-solids or other 3D objects as Steve suggested.

I can see now from your second picture that those cabinets are floating. I didn’t realize that before. Have you tried putting another object between your cabinet and the rope light? And are you sure the bottom of those cabinets is solid?

I’ve never put rope lights under a toe kick like that and I’m away from my computer so I can’t test this, but I suspect it has something to do with the way Chief treats that toe kick area as part of the main cabinet box shape. I would recommend trying 2 different things… 1. Create and apply an L-shaped molding profile to surround the light (behind and above), separating it from the cabinet. Either that or use some other 3D object(s) for the same purpose. 2. If that first one doesn’t work, maybe break that cabinet into two different cabinets. One for the box, and one shallower cabinet for the toe kick area below.

It looks like you solved your problems for this particular project, but what about those situations where you might actually want the roof lower like that (because they do exist)? I believe your problems with the floor finish building through are likely because your walls defining that room are being cut down too short by the roof above. When the walls are cut too short like that, they no longer stop the floor from building through... so, in order to address this, you can leave your roof planes right where they are and just define a very small attic area in that area where your roof is cutting into the room anyway...

Well put Eric. You're a sweetheart

I agree, but in this case, I feel like you may be pandering a bit. There's unwritten rules of forum etiquette, and there's just basic common courtesy. I really think we're talking about the latter here, and unless this particular user can accept a little warranted criticism and adjust accordingly, they're not going to get far. I guess the bottom line is that sometimes things need to be said to help set people on the right path. I haven't always liked things I've been told, but it's typically the tough conversations that help us grow.

That was David taking up his valuable time to make YOU a custom video 8 months ago showing you how to do exactly what you're asking about in this thread.

...and BTW, if this is your idea of “giving back”, I think I can speak for most users when I say No Thank You. I’ll focus my efforts elsewhere. Seriously though, I’m not trying to be mean, just blunt...where did you look “ under Dual dimensioning”? What does that even mean? Chief has nothing with that name. Were you looking on YouTube? User Guide? Chief’s Knowledge Base articles? Chief’s tutorial videos? Someone else’s tutorial videos? Why not tell us what tools you actually clicked on and what settings you changed? Now that would actually be a helpful way to “give back”. Your response just sounds lazy and definitely carried no spirit of helpfulness. To each his own, but I’m just trying to be straight when I say that attitude won’t get you too far when seeking “free” knowledge and assistance here on the forums.