Alaskan_Son

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Everything posted by Alaskan_Son

  1. Sorry, I should’ve clarified… It’s the joist direction arrow that was causing the thickness that did not add up. Without the joist direction arrow change you would still get 2 framing layers but they would have been the expected thickness.
  2. That's really up to you whether you report it or not but I say not. It's actually the joist direction arrow that's causing the problem but I think it's working as designed. By default, that arrow is initially created using the uppermost (3/4") framing layer. When the Depth was changed in the Joist Direction Specification dialog, it automatically adjusted the thickness of the upper joists to suit. It may be behaving unexpectedly, but it was some faulty settings that really caused the problem in the first place. Had you actually wanted a 3/4" thick furring layer, it would have worked just fine had the joist direction arrow not been changed.
  3. It uses the layer set that is set for your Full Camera Defaults.
  4. Your floor structure has 2 layers that are both defined as framing material. Change the subfloor to a non framing material.
  5. For the double wall, the lower wall should have drywall on one side only.
  6. No. Please send in this request. It’s something I’ve asked for myself in the past. It’s not too difficult to accomplish by checking the height at the new location, moving the baseline, and then changing the baseline height. It could be a lot easier and more efficient though. It’s relatively simple to check height any number of ways too. For example, drag the ridge down, copy ridge height and undo. Again, it could be easier though if we were able to simply move baseline.
  7. Drop that symbol back into the plan, rotate it 90 degrees, and just create a new symbol. Use the first one as a 6 x 4, and the second one as a 4 x 6. This basic technique comes in handy when creating 2D Blocks as well.
  8. Instead of selecting "Square", choose a 4x6 profile from the library. You'll probably have to make one yourself though. Only takes a few second though. Drop a 4x6 post into your plan, Convert Selected To Symbol, and add to library as Millwork.
  9. Your terrain is on a layer called "PL", and as Eric said, that layer isn't turned on in those views.
  10. I may be misunderstanding, but I have the same issue with title block text. I use macros in various areas of my title block, and I usually place those macros on page zero. For the actual page title however, I actually place the text box and reposition as necessary on every single page specifically to address the issue you're discussing. I still just use the %layout.title% macro in the text box, I just Copy/Paste Hold Position from one page to the next and center in its own little area of the block... This way the title fits nicely on every page...
  11. You can also explore the Adjust Lights Dialog to set the Maximum Lights or to use a specific Light Set.
  12. Here's a few tips to cover my own tips as well as some of the tips offered by others. Tips on tips on tips.... ...and yes, I failed miserably at squeezing it all into the 5 minutes I was hoping for. It was just a gitter dun as fast as I can thing while I had a few spare minutes. Its disorganized, poorly planned, unedited, uncut, and totally off the cuff with all my messiness and inefficiencies on full display. I think its a keeper.
  13. Its actually pretty easy to do this... Open your roof or ceiling plane, check Pitch In Degrees, and copy that angle. Create an Orthographic Full Overview. Use the 3D>View Direction tools in 3D or the Make Parallel/Perpendicular tool in Plan View to orient the camera so that it is perpendicular with the desired roof or ceiling plane. Open the Camera in Plan View or click the Edit Active View tool in 3D and paste the roof/ceiling plane angle into the Tilt Angle field. Use the Delete Surface tool to delete surfaces until you can see the profile of your ceiling surface. Create a CAD Detail From View Draw the desired molding outline in that CAD Detail using your ceiling plane shape. Cut that closed polyline, paste into a plan view Convert To>Molding Polyline and apply the desired molding Convert Selected To Symbol and using Advanced Options... Rotate the symbol along the appropriate axis (likely the X axis) to the roof/ceiling plane angle Place the object into your plan and reposition in plan view and section view as necessary so it attaches to your ceiling as desired. NOTE: You can also forgo changing the angle of the symbol and use the flush mounted option as Dermot suggested. It has some of its own quirks to contend with though and I find you still need to go through basically the same steps to reposition it in section anyway. It does however stay attached to the ceiling which is a plus if you decide to move your ceiling up or down.
  14. This can actually be done pretty quickly with Chief for quick renderings... 1. Find or create a texture with an appropriate grain pattern that is large enough to cover the door and drawer fronts of your entire unit. 2. Paint your cabinet boxes with the appropriate material and paint the door and drawer fronts with a different material (any material should do, it just needs to be different) 3. Group select the desired cabinets and Convert Selected To Symbol 4. Delete those cabinets (assume this is done in a separate Save As version of the plan) 5. Drop that new symbol into your plan to replace the deleted cabinets 6. Paint the desired material onto the door and drawer fronts 7. Define the material as NOT Stretch To Fit, set the appropriate scale (needs to be large enough to cover the unit), and check Global Symbol Mapping 8. Inspect in 3D and then adjust Horizontal and/or Vertical Offsets(s) as necessary
  15. They are faster, a little easier, and offer near instantaneous feedback. They’re definitely not higher quality though. They simply cannot depict lighting and shadows nearly as realistically as ray traces and there’s nothing even the most advanced user can do to fully remedy those limitations. Control over said lighting and shadows is also a lot more limited in those PBRs. There’s a lot that could be said on this topic, but the most glaring issues to me are the way PBRs basically handle lighting as an aggregate differential, the lack of effective soft shadows and ambient occlusion, the jumpy way it handles reflections depending on the camera angle, and it’s lack of proper reflective glass behavior. Now don’t get me wrong. Ray traces have their issues too, and PBRs certainly have their strengths and can be a totally useful and effective tool. I wouldn’t call them as good or better though.
  16. I think multiple cabinets and manually placed moldings where necessary are your best bet for most of that. For the manually positioned moldings here's a little trick to throw into your toolbox in case you don't have it...
  17. Custom door and drawer front symbols if you want my advice. Probably best to simply build from scratch and set up so that the main symbol and the crevices use 2 different materials. I just picked a random door style to demonstrate the basics, but here's an example. Its an X12 library object that includes an Architectural block (so you can see how I built it), and the finished door symbol itself. Again, it's very basic and there are a million little ways the modeling and materials can be done and improved, but hopefully gets the idea across. Pay attention to the stacked molding profile in particular... Simple Glazed Door Examples.calibz
  18. Patterns live in the library now and are handled as .CALIBZ files. File>Import>Patterns is how you can import .PAT files though.
  19. Yes. In that case it would and should work just fine. No reason not to. When there's only one ceiling height to use, of course the software will get it right. In this scenario though, there are 2 ceilings as well as the open to below area. Remove any one of those variables and and you make it clear as to what's supposed to happen. The stairs just add even a fourth layer of complication though. At any rate, here's another fix using some very strategically placed room dividers and some very specific room definitions...The main key is a very very small room in that open to below area (expanded for clarity in this screenshot)... Stair Area Fix 3.plan ...I basically just thought to myself..."How can I make it clear to Chief that I need a lowered ceiling and a lowered wall in this area?"
  20. Just a quick side note here, but the originally posted plan was far from complete. I typically wouldn’t invest too much time in forcing changes till the plan was a little further along. Sometimes with the completion of various aspects of the plan, these problems end up fixing themselves. Plus, you don’t want to spend a bunch of time perfecting a solution only t adjust it an hour later once you realize the second floor was t quite right.
  21. Yes. That's exactly what I was saying. Chief doesn't know what to do with that area. Like I said, it's in a sort of no-man's land. Does it belong to the stairwell/open to below area? The lower ceiling area? The higher ceiling area? I don't expect you to answer. As builders and designers we might know exactly what we want to do with it, but I can certainly see why the software would be confused and ultimately just have to make a decision one way or another. If it dropped that wall to be part of the lower area, I can gurantee you that behavior is going to cause problems in another plan with a different layout. Not sure I follow. What are you using as you basis for "normally". How would that section normally not be a problem. Have you modeled this exact scenario before and not had this issue?
  22. Post the plan for a more accurate answer, but the short of it is that you DO have control over most of that. Those automatic fills are created based on your various object settings. Click on Help or hit F1 and search Auto Detail but here are a few quick examples of where your settings are coming from... -For your roof/ceiling planes you won;t get insulation unless you check this setting... -For insulation in walls... -And in the absence of insulation, walls get their auto fills from these settings... Like I said though, use the Help files to your advantage. It's all spelled out pretty well in there.
  23. I'm talking about this red section of wall that really seems to be the source of most of the problems. And the stairs themselves add even more complication to the matter. There's just a lot going on there.
  24. Not so sure I can totally agree with this. I can definitely see why this scenario confuses the program. That little section of wall is kinda in no mans land on multiple levels (stairs, 1st floor room definitions, 2nd floor room definitions, and that open to below room).