Ridge_Runner

If there are some of you who have used Bluebeam and Adobe Acrobat, would you be so kind as to share what you believe are the major pros and cons of each? I noticed Bluebeam has a "CAD" version listed for Architects, Engineers, CAD users; is that one really different, or just "window dressing?" Thanks

Did some additional testing. At 144 dpi using Chief's PDF print driver, I get an "information icon" in the preview window saying, "Printer DPI is low: 144 DPI." Using that setting it only dropped Chief's created file from 34.6 MB to 34.59 MB - no real change. In CutePDF, using the 144 dpi, I get the same information icon but it drops the file size down from 3.3 MB (at 600 dpi) to 2.0 MB - significant change. Just using Acrobat Reader DC to view the files, I notice line quality issues on the circles, especially the door labels, in both plan and elevations (several vertices instead of full circles). I haven't actually printed a lower dpi drawing yet but will do that before long so I don't know if that will carry thru to the printed output or is just showing on the screen. Thanks to those who have responded so far.

600 dpi on both. I guess that is because I had that set to match the output of my old HP 755CM plotter, which I still use; haven't changed that setting for years. I never lowered the dpi thinking the output would suffer in clarity. So, does 144 dpi for 24x36 prints work OK? One thing I can't stand is "fuzzy" line work! Unless, of course, that's what I intended.

When I print to PDF using Chief's own internal print driver the file sizes are huge - usually around 10x the size of the ones I print using CutePDF. Chief's driver is better in some ways. I am getting light areas, usually in the center portion of a view, using CutePDF that Chief does not create. I hatch the upper cabinets using Chief's driver and sometimes some of the hatch will disappear - always random. CutePDF doesn't do this. Chief's PDF file sizes are almost prohibitive for me to send out to emails, outside engineering, print shops, lumber yards etc. I have a DSL line but it is still too sloooooow on uploads. Uploading to dropbox takes forever when Chief's PDFs are 40 to 50+ MB, which most of mine are lately. I normally don't include PDF's in my layouts; all plot line views and CAD details. I searched the forum and did not find any solution offered to this dilemma. Has anyone found a "cure?" If not, what PDF print software would you recommend I look at without spending a fortune? I don't want to spend $500 in this area. Thanks in advance. Mike

Very nice Rene.

Thanks, Michael. I have struggled trying to get these sinks to play nice with CA and always had to come to a compromise that never was "correct." At least your method will get a good 3D look I can use. I wish CA would improve the insertion of these sinks as I use them more and more thanks to Pinterest.

I understand and always appreciate you input, Robert. Just trying to help the OP before maybe going too far only to find out it might not work from a framing standpoint.

I finally mastered this one, but the "high amplitude arcs" has always bugged me; have to adjust every one of them manually. I sure wish there was a default setting where we could limit that, especially on short connections - (think switch to outside porch light or switch to vanity light in small bath).

Mike, with Robert's example, what are you going to tie the bottom of your rafters with to prevent them from spreading at the plate height? Trusses, maybe scissors design, would work but I'm not sure stick framing the roof would be structurally sound like Robert's example. Maybe one of the structural guys will chime in and give an opinion. edit: A structural ridge would take care of the issue though.

Here's the one I did at half the resolution (1900x1052) minus the verbiage and logo I added later on to the larger one for the print shop. I did make a couple of minor adjustments to the raytrace before I saved it. I think I adjusted the brightness level down a couple of points. I have found I have to be careful on that adjustment as even 5-8 points is a drastic change sometimes. I like the greyish window color for this type of photo - focuses the viewer on the architectural details instead of being more busy. If the client had been willing to pay more I would have experimented with adding some subtle sky reflections to the windows according to an old thread I remember from a few years ago. I did not spend much time on this as it wasn't needed for this project. As always, your results may vary. BTW, that "honkin" sloped roof line is existing that the owner did not want to remove; just replace roof covering. Otherwise, it would have been gone on the first prelim I sent him!

That is exactly what I did. The interior would not have shown much so I just kept adjusting the sky color until I got a window glass color I was happy with - thanks Jintu for the suggestion to use a darker gray. Mike

Graham, I certainly appreciate all of your time spent on this topic. I don't do many raytraces for residential, partly to my limited knowledge and "where to start with the adjustments." However, I seem to be picking up more light commercial work. Just yesterday a client wanted an exterior shot of his restaurant remodel I did for some signage to be done during the construction project. I have been struggling with trial and error to come up with a satisfactory view. I think I have it now, especially looking back at some old threads on exterior settings the great Jintu so kindly shared on this forum. Interior shots are an entirely different animal to me; much more complicated. Thanks again, Mike

Graham, that is an amazing improvement! Just as a guess, how long did it take you to make the adjustments to get your version from what you started with in CA's?

Hey, Jarr. I love your Christmas lights on the gutter; nice touch!

This statement is so true! I can never predict when this will happen - what the life-cycle of the current session is. But it does exist. I never could figure out what led to "the end" of the session. But I certainly know the consequences if I go too long. At least it is an easy one to fix. Like Jon said, re-boot.

Nice, Graham. I would certainly call that "outside the box" thinking.

Greg, did the OP post the plan? I never did see it. Edit: never mind; I saw the plan posted in the next thread I read instead of here.

Jon, you and Mark have too much free time on your hands. I did watch both videos though.

Good summation, Lew. I certainly miss some of otherCAD's CAD features but I much prefer designing in Chief. I have to constantly fight the impulse to quickly just do it in CAD. It may seem quicker up front but when you learn the basics of how Chief works I wouldn't go back to the familiar just for the sake of saving a little time up front and losing so much more later.

Nice rendering! Maybe I can do that when I grow up!

Rene, how do these work around windows and doors? Do they resize OK in those situations? I'm thinking about the times when a window or door corner intersects a a portion of the panel where you would have to take out a corner of the cabinet in order to maintain the overall grid pattern.

I have had this show up before also and mine was not a legacy plan. This issue with me was cabinet labels. There were cabinets on the wall behind the wall in elevation I was viewing using the room elevation camera for my cabinets to layout and those labels showed up over the cabinets I was detailing. I couldn't select them, turn them off (without the others disappearing), or refresh the view - nothing worked. I never figured it out - I placed white-out boxes over the offending labels and moved on; Work must go on in spite of these annoyances.

That explains why they look good.

Pretty good, David. What did you use for the fasteners? Was a texture of a panel with them in it used and applied to the PS?

There was a thread I was involved in a few years ago on the forum (2-3 Years?) concerning this topic. You might find it in a search. There were several different ways to go about this - I forget which one I ended up using for a project I was working on at the time but it worked pretty good. Getting the spacing at start and end of wall run and top and bottom were the biggest challenges best I remember (also cutting around windows and doors). Edit: I think making the sheathing a black color was one of the tips so it would show the shadow lines better in the method I used.