Kbird1

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Everything posted by Kbird1

  1. Thanks Joe , I assume they are in X6 though right ? dag nam it ! Mick.
  2. thanks Joe had not seen those so i'll check them out....
  3. Defaults>Text.Callouts and Markers I think.... but on X5 here....
  4. Thanks Joe that last hint got me there , I was using the wrong kind of Pline and then converting to assign the moulding instead of using the "Blank" molding Pline when it was offered ,setting the height and then assigning the moulding in the Molding Tab. Mick.
  5. Like Lew said the lengths are only there if you choose "Buy" list or "Cut" List otherwise it only gives you a total lineal footage... BTW the BUY list is badly done for eg who buys 12' 8 3/4" 2x6's? nobody... you'd need to buy 14' , last one I did I have 9 entries for 2x6's totalling 29 pcs@ 14' 2x6's that should of been one line... M.
  6. Apps that you don't need the speed of the SSD for, you could uninstall and reinstall on the 500GB Data Drive is one idea for more space on C: another idea I use is also to move ALL my Libraries to the Data Drive too , this saves me lots of GB's , eg your Pictures. Videos, Music, Downloads and My Documents call all be moved to D:\ Drive by simply telling Windows to move the folder location to D:\ ( I make the new folders on D:\ 1st , then just point windows to the right folder , say D:\Pictures , it will ask if you want to move all existing content to D:\ , hit OK and it will automatically move it all and keep track of it ,but leave the shortcuts where they are so you can still find them easily. funnily enough , it looks like PugetSystems even has a weblink to the library moves... http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/support-software/Moving-Windows-7-8-Libraries-184/ or http://www.pcworld.com/article/2079571/move-your-libraries-to-a-second-drive-or-partition.html and on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X53z54NR3b0 Turning off hibernation will also save you 8GB ...(an amount equal to your RAM) hope this helps assuming you can get on to read it !
  7. Good Question , that would be a handy PDF to have... M.
  8. I agree , especially since I don't know when the last time was anyone built a hand rail directly over the Rim Joist was ( you cant notch posts) , you can offset the newels , so why you can't just offset the whole rail and/or place it as any other wall ?, I am unsure why they lock it to the Rim. It is the same with the rail on the stairs if you happen to drag it 1" off the stairs it builds horizontal instead of following the stair... once again the Newel is mounted to the outside of the stringers ,but the rail wont build if not on top of the stringer ( same as Rim joist problem). M.
  9. I did try setting the PLine to 48" as you suggested earlier but all it did was move the Pline up to 48" and did not cut around the windows or doors it still continued across them , but it maybe in the way I made or assigned the 3d molding to the wall ?, this was a 1st go at this kind of thing in Chief ,so I'm probably missing something you do without thinking about. M.
  10. The disappearing post issue , I couldn't solve but I think the 7 1/2" earlier and the now "required" 9 5/8" are due to how/where I was measuring earlier , this technique is fairly easy once you have played with it a bit , but I may need to just leave the two post corner ( except for Client "Pics" ) out since the 7 1/2" gap is nearly double the Code reqd. measurement for anything City related. I made a small 12x12 deck , keep the standard single post at the corners , then turned the Deck into a symbol and dropped it back into the plan if anyone wants to look , or have a "play" with this technique. (Done in X5 , other techniques in X6 perhaps?) M. Fascia Mount Railing Symbol Plan.plan
  11. Hi Joe , hadn't noticed there is no batten above the Doors and Windows , till Gene Mentioned it nice solution too maybe paint nd a normal symbol 1x3 hung on wall if needed too? I probably wasnt clear when I asked about how to get the Windows and Doors to show , I was not trying to emulate your House with the Brick sill etc , which is what I think the heights you gave are referring too , the house I was working on is standard height with stem wall , so the siding drops down 14 inches or so to cover the Rim joist and continues upto the Soffit/Eave, are you having to cut the B&B back at all windows and doors so the show in Elevation view ? or some other technique afterwards? I played some more today , so have attached a X5 Plan , if you get a chance a t work to look at it sometime and repost as X5 so I can edit/look at your comments etc that would be great. Thx. no rush at all. Thanks again, M. Cedar B&B Plan2.plan
  12. the Forum is a secure site , hence the "s" in https:// , it will be using encryption of some sort, perhaps FireFox isn't handling it well ? (should be transparent) , have you tried IE or Chrome ? your bookmarked link above works for me in IE , I use a Desktop shortcut with the same link by the looks , in IE https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/ can't test firefox for you but Chrome (V35) is working with your link too.
  13. See if this Helps: Make sure your Printer/page setup sizes are setup correctly 1st , then while in Plan view , goto Printer >Print Preview and it should show you what you will get , then you can ,with the Edit>Defaults>dimension>Manual Dimensions play with the size setting....while it is usually 5-6" for me while Drawing, I make it 10 or 12" eg for Ext. Dimensions , but might get messy if you have lots of Manually drawn Dims in the Interior too. You can also play with the Scale to see if it will fit on the page before Sending to Layout , as seen below with this Practice Plan it is set to 3/16"= 1' , with size 12 Ext. Dims. M. at layout recheck your Printer Page Setup ( I find mine seems to change on its own , but maybe cos my default printer is diff. to my CA Printer (PDF)
  14. Tried your settings Glenn, using 2 wall layers instead of 3 and now I need the posts 9.5 inches from the corner or they disappear ( 3" main layer and 6.5 inch secondary). Any idea how how the layers relate to how close we can get to the corner ? I think I had 3" main layer and 3" sec. and a 3rd layer at 4" previously for the 7.5" setback distance. M.
  15. hi Joe , thanks for the instructions, got it figured out after some time with the manual ( 1st 3D symbol ) , though it looks like I missed a setting somewhere as mine doesn't cut around the windows and doors like yours, any ideas? thanks , M.
  16. yes I think that's what he meant. did it work ? normally the Wall's Main Layers align which can throw things out sometimes too ,depending on what is set as the main layer.
  17. Think I saw log siding in the Library at one point but no idea on the dovetailed part. M.
  18. Ok got the third post figured , I set the Newel width to 0" on both short walls and the Baluster width to 0" too (1/16th auto set) might have found your no post problem , if I move the post close to the corner ( as in real life 2 1/2" set back) they disappear.... M. Edit : it seems I need to have both walls 7.5 " from the corner for both posts to generate , which I think coincides with the thickness of the "real wall" .
  19. Ok Thanks , thought you must be at Office with X5 when the 1st one imported.....this X6 one imports fine too surprisingly , there is just nothing to see in the Library, usually I get the version error if the file is X6 only, but with you instructions I can give it a go , so thanks again. Mick.
  20. Breaking the Railing wall with the new invisible wall went fine , once I figured out I needed to place the new walls about 10"-12" from the corner to avoid the thickness of the "Invisible layers" of the new railing, otherwise the Wall Break Tool wouldn't work. The Posts on the end are generating automatically for me, maybe half post is turned on in your copy of plan? I usually spec them as that is how I build them (stronger) , but I can't find the right setting to get rid of the post in the Corner , so have a wonderful 3 post design at present want to say Thanks again , for spending some time on this for me......
  21. Thanks Joe ....but could you check the file , it imported fine into X5 ,but on clicking on the file in the Library, it showed blank ? nothing in either preview window , which was closely followed by the Nvidia Driver crashing , causing X5 to close down too. I thought we couldn't post calibz to the forum? is that a clue to it's issue? thought we had to zip them 1st? or have they changed that ? M.
  22. Nice Joe , we were try to figure this out about 2 months ago on the Symbols forum ,what Board and Batten symbol did you apply ? cos at least in X5 there isn't one ? I only have the one I came up with in the Symbols thread. Perhaps from one of the Manufacturer's Lib.s ? I have since Read that CertainTeed has one in there siding lib. but it isn't real 3d either. thanks.
  23. I always put a showerpan in from the library and adjust size and height so the plan view shows a shower tray then I use the Soffit panel I made to make the panels and door etc .personally I am not worried about the handle etc usually , it looks good enough, so the soffit trick works and is quick and easy. on my netbook today but here is a version of the panel , unzip/extract and import the calibz as normal.it set 4" above the floor by default but you can change all that once dropped into the plan. 34 in Shower Glass Panel.zip
  24. Personally I don't like the glass shower wall as it is "seen" by CA as a Wall and thus auto joins etc and I find it causes more issues than it solves , so I just made 80"X34"x3/8" cabinet Soffits ,with the Material set as Standard glass ( so it is clear ,Tempered shows blue-ish in CA) and added them to the library and now resize and use them on each job. depending on the height of your shower tray you'll need to change the height off the floor too.
  25. Thanks Glenn , I changed the wall thicknesses around to try and stop the "shimmering" on the Rim joist, but something weird is going on, when I opened the plan this morning ,and opened the saved Cross section on the back deck everything had moved over ,and back into the deck , and left the Cad lines and boxes I had done a test detailing with behind , so you maybe right about using zero width walls. I had changed some of the wall thickness around to make the wall lines disappear in the section view ,but they were back as well. Maybe my GTX275 on the Office Comp. is causing the "shimmering" but I see the white bleeding from/into the Rim joist at the edge of the deck at what looks like the wall thickness line. Does it show for you? not sure if its CA or my comp . on this aspect. Could you post a pic of your Deck Railing>Wall types >Define DBX please , i'd like to try your Settings. Thx.