Kbird1

This Style is pretty common especially Downunder , so I am sure Glen and some of the Kiwi guys will chip in too , often called a Monoslope ,( or Skillion Roof in Oz) but basically built like a big Shed Roof. There is no need for crickets really , it can be done with the edge Flashing, it has a vertical edge standing up about 1 - 1 1/2" above the roof surface to channel water down the roof to the standard gutter at the bottom ( similar to the shed roof edge flashing actually). On a large project it may still be advisable of course ( commercial Job approach), but the upstand stops water rolling off the edge and "dripping" and causing staining etc. on larger built up Fascias. The rest of the detailing is pretty standard as far as Soffits, venting, Low Slope roofing ( Torch-On) etc. Last one I built was a small Art Studio but I only got a couple photos with the edge showing ( and the Client's painting )

guess I misunderstood that question looks like a standard raked gable soffit to me? unchecking "boxed eave" in the build Roof DBX > options should give you that. M.

I am sure if there was better Documentation or a Tutorial on the Feature especially since ChiefArmstrong mentions no one uses the feature properly and to be "careful" it would go a long way towards the less negative Comments, nearly everyone here likes the idea, and I for one would like to know how to use it properly ,with knowledge "from the horse's mouth" rather that figuring it out for myself..... M.

so exposed Rafter Tails and Lookouts ? don't build soffits on the build roof DBX ? DJP has a video here : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNgz1TJ8TLk or try turning off Eaves in the display options ? make the material for eaves >"Opening-no material" depending on what you want to achieve.... other vids http://www.chieftutor.com/roof/rafter.html Scott has vids there too.... http://www.chieftutor.com/scotthall4/

no problem , your posts are the only ones I have seen Keuka mentioned in so I used that for the search term figuring there couldn't be too many "hits" M.

As mentioned It is not well documented , had seen the checkbox but hadn't played with it. perhaps a KB Article or Video is in order ? be good to use it effectively as others mentioned. only thing I found in over 1200pgs of the Manual was : Framing Back Clip defines the back clip for framing members in cross section views. Framing must be set to display to see the effects of this value. A zero value does not back clip at all.

We call them Dutch Gables too ...which maybe wrong ...but looking on Google it is also called a JerkinHead Roof or a Tudor Hip in some places, neither term I have heard before here.. Half Hip is another term used per the Automatic Roofs dialog. http://architecture.about.com/od/general/ig/Roof-Styles/Jerkinhead-Roof.htm similar thread on Contractor Talk and they think 1/3 or 1/4 the Gable height for the "Clipping point" or "when you view it from above it should be an equilateral triangle" http://www.contractortalk.com/f14/jerkinhead-roof-design-111872/

That is a global Over-ride though so if you want to frame certain walls , eg shear walls with 2X8 and 12" OC studs the "Define a new Material Works" well for that kind of thing. from another of my posts : The Wall Framing can actually be spaced with the LIBRARY MATERIAL assigned to the wall type main layer. so all you need to do is Copy the Fir Stud 16" Material to you User Library , Open the Material and change the Spacing to 12" and rename it Fir 12"OC, then when you Define/make your new 8" wall type , assign the new 12"OC material to the main layer (stud), it will then automatically space the framing per the material not the Framing Default ....IF you check the box "Use wall Framing Layer" in the Wall Panel of the Build Framing DBX. Make sure your Other Walls Material for the main layer is also set to the Fir 16"OC material not the 24"OC too , mine was defaulted to 24" for 2x6 walls.

the old post / links are here https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/728-how-to-draw-keuka-deck-post-very-fancy/?hl=keuka

the jump distance is 0" by default in Preferences so it appears not to work even if you use the menu/icon/shortcut key but works nicely otherwise.

Some of their stuff is on 3D Warehouse did you check your old post on this? Perhaps you should email them and Request they do a Chief Library too...

Ahhhh didn't know that , didn't realise Cin. had added to an old thread instead of starting his own. M.

there is no option under library>Convert legacy libraries (alb) in X6 anymore? M.

There are TWO posters here , Cincilator is talking about DWG's , the OP, Lighthouse doesn't mention his file type.... rest of the thread is regarding the "you can't import 3d data" statement, you can in the right format.....

KT beat me to it ...it is do-able, look at the thread from several weeks ago , where we were playing with GPS data for a large Plot with thousands of Points.... M. found it: https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/1113-importing-csv-terrain-data/?hl=%2Bterrain+%2Bdata

looks like the stairs are using the Terrain height not the Conc.Slab for some reason , so as KT said adjust them manually , maybe finicky since it's sloped so zoom right in

The 1st few times it happened they disappeared fairly fast after I used the report button , but I'm guess the Forum Mod is on an extended july 4th holiday.... maybe back Monday? M.

typically I remove the 1x4 frame pcs and replace them with a full width 3/4 plywood piece , if needed in a situation like this , or I know the wall will have tile on it eg in a Bathroom or a cabinet against it. M.

import the image/color from Trex as a new material and assign it to the Deck as the color or copy the Trex decking to your own library and assign the new material to it for repeated use...

it's a type of Dormer ...so place the Auto Dormer , then change the default style to Eyebrow and set the width and height as needed. M.

is surface edge lines on ? usually is (default) and set to "use layers" 3D>3D settings>Options>surface edge lines, can be turned off though you can set Color Off mode to be Greyscale not black and white in the preferences>appearance I know nothing about endcaps but have noticed the "rounded corners" if line weights are "on"

might want to ask over at the Room Planner Forum too https://roomtalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/forum/3-q-a/ but it list this as the system requirements here http://roomplanner.chiefarchitect.com/room-planner/ System RequirementsiPad 2 or newer iPhone 4 or newer iOS 6 or newer For Leica Bluetooth laser:Dimension Bundle iPad 3 or newer E7100i(D110) E7500i(D510) D810

Thanks KT I had assumed my issue was with the upper section , so didn't try altering the bottom straight section but once lined up close as you say if you grab the upper handle on the bottom section , shorten the staircase up and drag it back to the curved section it auto-snapped too the curved section , had to try 2-3 times sometimes but in the end snaps weren't an issue , both pieces "found" each other... M.

Insulation is a factor now , normally we'd use 2x8/10 now top and bottom to allow for insulation thickness and/or use Rigid Foam this was discussed last month here..... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/1187-bay-window-picture-frame-casing/ (EDIT: The post above includes the Windows- JC posts about down below ....in post 5.)

Check in a 3D view , I have seen this before and found the second set /curved section was sitting on the ground and need the bottom height set to the top height of the straight section to join up. M.