Kbird1

video card and Ram are very low spec for doing 3D work but you don't mention budget but.... upping both to what is affordable is probably advisable and I would look at nothing less than a 750watt power supply especially with a better video card installed , the gts 450 came out in 2010? and is only $65-75? nowdays. something with 2GB onboard Ram or more should be considered. minimum Computer ram should be 8GB , windows will happily gobbly up 1/2 that now days 12 or 16GB is better. video card stats http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/video_lookup.php?gpu=GeForce+GTS+450 you might consider a 120 GB SSD to install Windows and X6 on and use the 500GB HD for Data Storage only too. M.

Thanks Perry will look into it , since I assume a number of benefits if you are both using this technique. M.

Ahhh missed that part of the question somewhere is there another thread on your technique, or has Scott done videos , like to look into it more as I do it the standard way now..... Thanks. M.

Perry , what am I missing , how does making the Basement Level 1 align the walls ? thanks, Mick

Yes if you had rebuilt the Basement you would of lost everything as I mentioned above , it deletes the whole foundation and re-does it , it doesn't just "repair" any issues it finds.... The Align tool uses whatever is set in the Wall definition as the main layer to do alignments , usually the framing layer on framed walls and for foundations since only one 8" thick layer the outside of the Concrete. (Here the plywood is usually flush with the concrete in real life though) M.

use the align walls tool on the edit toolbar as KT said cos if you rebuild the foundation you will LOSE EVERYTHING already drawn down there and need to start again..... only rebuild if you have no walls doors bathrooms etc down there ie the basement is blank....

they seem to hit after 10 pm PST sometimes later , I reported 3 late last night too...

Thanks Michael , got my learning for today never heard of a Dog Ear Arch , neither has google apparently looks like it might be a US term for cutting the corners of Fence Boards though.... Would of assumed these Diamond windows would be in the Library somewhere , they aren't that rare... M.

It appears to be a roof over a deck or porch ?, rather than a Room , not sure if that is somehow effecting the out come of the Trim to Soffit check box ? and it cutting ALL the rafters down ? probably not I suspect the Porch Room is set to "Use Soffit surface for ceiling" , so it may do what you are describing thinking the slope ceiling is all soffit.....

Here the Porch wall would have to be 42" to meet code (guard rail) and the stair wall would be 36" above the nosing line so they would never meet at the same height in that corner , you'd have to step the porch wall back from the edge to make it happen , not bring it forward. Perhaps you are allowed 36"porch and 36" stairs for code ? so I think the levelling out is needed. Here I'd have to add a Grip rail as well since a 2x10 cap would not be considered "grip-able" , some inspectors no longer allow 2x6 even for the top cap. M.

no I see this too , so I tell IE to reload page , it asks about resubmitting data (yes) and it then reloads search finds why , no idea.....

I think the transfer fee if it was purchased as a secondary license is equivalent to the difference between what was paid for the 2nd licence and what that licence would cost new as a primary..... there was another thread on this a while back ...with Portrait/Ozgur ? who was going to sell his 2nd licence too. M.

Yep +1 on that , its a pita for sure

trying leaving soffits on but turn off "trim to soffit" which uses the subfascia measurement to trim the rafter overhangs/tails down to that measurement.

Just eliminate the short perpendicular wall and start the flare at the deck wall.....typically it would come into the wall under the Deck wall cap , here at least as the deck rail would be a guard rail so 42" high and the rail on the stairs only 36" , so no need for strange joints or "levelling out" M.

Bill , is correct this is how I would do it on the job too , ie make the small triangle with a 0" inside corner and have the rail turn the 15° (or whatever it is) then go down the slope. If you don't "turn the corner" 1st the two pieces will never be the same width as anything cut on the angle will have a longer "cut face" than the one cut at 90°. can you "fake it" in the real world ...yes if the angles aren't too bad but you will always have a hole in the back on one side as there is no material there.

it happens in both views Kirk...

you can get the sidewalk area/volume from the Polyline info in the Terrain Path DBX but it multiples for 1" thick only so you'd need to multiple volume by 4" thick ? no idea why its not in the ML though. M.

you may need to offset the Door's texture (material) so it will lineup with the wall's texture or use a material that doesn't have vertical/horizontal patterns....

thanks Val good tip....hadn't thought to try that

I did a small Arbor Plan the other day and the concrete pad was under Exterior Trim ............. still can't figure that one out.....

as I did....

No Dennis , always very careful not to click on links to unknown websites....... I just hit the Report button so the Mod will delete those posts...

yep I am see the same thing as Joe...in Vector View

Instructions on the KB are here http://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00767/