SNestor

Did a quick look...and one thing I noticed was that the roof overhang at the rear/2nd floor is wider than the standard 12" overhang you have everywhere else. This will have an impact on your frieze boards not aligning properly. Couple other questions...see pics below; Should 2nd floor wall be covering the brick here? If so...you need to move your 2nd floor wall. If not...in needs some trim and the roof pulled parallel. Is the way this gutter board is drawn (square)...is this correct? The gutter is just hanging out in mid-air...

Post the plan...it’s the only way to get an accurate answer

Eric is correct... See clips attached...

Doug...why not use solids and create a symbol? See video...

Glad I could help...this Forum is filled with very helpful people.

I have a MAC...so, it comes with "QuickTime" which I use for screen capture...and "iMovie" that I use to put together the final "edited" movie files. It works...but it's not the most professional software. If I can bring myself to spend the money I'd buy "CAMTASIA 2018". It looks like a great piece of software...but, it cost about 260.00...and for 299.00 I can buy Apples pro movie editing software called "Final Cut Pro X". I'm still investigating...and trying to learn about all the available products. The one reason I like "CAMTASIA" is that you do the screen recording and the editing in the same piece of software. Seems like the way to go...

Rocky...you are working way too hard on this roof. See attached video...hopefully it will help. Here is my plan file...Rocky Roof Fix Plan 1.plan

Rocky... I think you need to read the manual, watch the Chief Videos, get on YouTube and watch as many DSHall (Scott Hall) videos as you can...and learn the program. Did you watch the video I posted? The first thing you need to do is learn to control "LAYERS". If you learn how to use the software...that roof should only take about 10 minutes to complete. We've all been where you are...at the starting line. Education is the key to success. I will look at your plan and possibly post a video later today....I think your attached plan can be useful in teaching others.

Rocky - let us know if it's the construction of the roof you are having trouble with...or, just creating a simple plan view where you can work with the roof planes. I don't think your post is clear... Thanks.

Just a quickie video where I go through a plan that was posted last week on Chief Talk. I dissect the way the chimney was constructed and also the porch railing wall. Hope it helps someone...

Rocky - if I'm understanding your question correctly...you are asking how to get a "plan view" that is simpler to work with. You need to learn to use "LAYERS". You are using the "Roof Plan" layerset...which is good. And...you can open that set and change anything you want. Line weight, line color...etc. You can turn layers on and off. Attached is a very simple video...hope it helps. Rocky Roof Fix Plan 1.plan

I made a little video using the plan file that MrDucks attached above. I used it as a basis to talk about "painting" walls...and how you can get the wall back to match your "wall type" definition. This video topic is very "basic"...created for those who are just beginning to use Chief. Experts need not bother. Hope it helps...

Just a simple/quick little video on how to create 2 deck rail wall types on a deck. It's basic...

Did a quick video...the guys have already answered faster than I could make this video...but maybe it'll help someone.

Well...I just missed the point of this thread. Sorry about that. I'd love to be able to have more control...of many things. First and foremost...STAIRS.

Can’t you create a unique roof section with no fascia? I get the point...it would be great to just click and remove the fascia from edge. But...you can accomplish the task right now if you really need to. You could also just “mask” the fascia in the section view...I think.

In the field wouldn’t these tails be removed? So...why not just pull the overhang back to the beam? This would solve the problem... am I missing something?

Post the plan...

Not sure what you need...but here's a quickie vid. Let me know if it helps or not...

I'm wondering how to dimension a wall elevation...created with the "wall elevation camera"? I have learned by trial and error that the NKBA auto dim tool works...if you have cabinets. Otherwise...it doesn't. So...do I have to create a cad detail from view and dimension it there...or is there a way to dimension this wall elevation using the standard tools? All I want to do is dimension the height/width of the seat and the overall height and width of the space. Thanks!

Well...turns out if you make the main body roof (not the dormer roof) thicker...in this case I increased the rafters from 5 1/2" to 7 1/4"...the soffit disappeared. Probably just buried in the roof cavity. So...if you ever create a dormer, make sure the dormer rafters are smaller than the main body rafters it is connecting to. I think....

Well...it seems if I use an "auto dormer"...the soffit does not pierce through the ceiling.

Is this user error...or software glitch? Why does the "soffit" of the dormer roof stick through the ceiling? See attached pics. Let me know if I need to attach plan...I was just practicing creating dormers on a test plan...and for the life of me I cannot get these to disappear. The dormer roof is 12/12 with a 6" overhang. I have created some cheek walls that are set as "roof cuts wall at bottom"...and as you can see from the attached pics...the roof is cutting through the wall. You would think this would trim the soffit? Thanks.

No "advantage" really...except if you have a simple condition it's quick and easy. If you have a shower that turns a corner...with angles and a seat, then P-Solids is the way to go...or maybe a combo of both methods. My video just shows one method possible. Chief does give us many ways to do things like this to suit everyones particular needs. Also...just remember Scott, you and your videos have got me to where I am today...I owe it all to you buddy. Thanks!

Did you watch the video? I made both the 42” wall and the 6” wall...the entire thing took less than 3 min to create. Both methods have pluses depending on what you are getting paid to do. Personally...if you are just drafting plans...you don’t really want to create shop drawings. You just end up being blamed for things not fitting or working. P-solid method will result in additional accuracy...can’t argue that. But...the pony wall is faster.