SNestor

I did a video on this subject...maybe it will help.

Yes...you are correct. That’s really what I wanted to do...but gave up. C’mon Chief...fix stuff like this.

Thank you Glenn! It's a simple fix...well, if you know what your are doing.

I've mulled a casement window above an awning window. The two windows are stacked directly on one another...the top of the awning is 34" AFF and the bottom of the casement is 34" AFF. So...why do I get the thin piece of exterior trim generated between the two units? Is there a way to get rid of this...or is it just the way Chief works? Here is my sample plan... Window Mulled Plan.plan

This video is targeted to beginners or for someone considering purchasing the software. For someone with CA experience it’s a snoozer

Looking at what Dave gave us...looks like cabinets is the way to go when creating and outdoor BBQ.

The REF display dialogue is improved...but the introduction of it by Chief has been lousy. When a tool that has been around as long as this is changed so radically there needs to be supporting training videos released prior to or at a minimum at the time of release. Its obvious to me that hat many users haven’t a clue how to use this tool...or plan views. Come on Chief...you can do better

Totally agree Joe. Thanks.

that works...if you have a bath or bedroom above it would have to be an invisible wall...but, still...that's a great idea. Thanks Eric!

That works fine for defining a material...but the material has "0" thickness. It's not realistic and nothing appears in the section. And if you have a "porch room" (as shown in pic below)...and it has a defined ceiling material/thickness...if you delete this ceiling you end up with nothing. The room above does not fill in the material. I really think the only way to do this is with invisible rooms on the floor below the cantilever...

Thanks Eric... So, the best solution is to create a "room" below the cantilever and then go to the materials tab and assign the specific material. However, you have to specify the "thickness" and the number of "layers" of the ceiling in the "ceiling finish" DBX on the room "structure" tab. Thanks again...I wasn't thinking about the "materials" tab.

Wondering...how do you get a "finish" material to appear on the underside of a cantilevered floor? Does it require creating a "room" with invisible walls on the floor below? This works...but, it creates other problems...especially if you are trying to create a "porch" room at a door opening. My solution was to use a Molding Polyline and create a soffit and trim board...but, is this the only simple solution? Just wondering what others have done to accomplish this task... Thanks

I’ve thought the same thing since I purchased the software...version X6. But...I also want the stair tool improved drastically.

You could use a spline...or draw an arc...then open the object DBX and “add an arrow”...to indicate the switch controls a light above or below.

I don’t think the “rail follows wall” will give you stair treads. I think you get a wall with cap and a balustrade on top of the wall.

Maybe the video I recently did could help you...

Thanks...it’s nice to know my videos can be some help.

I'm surprised at the number of posts on this thread. The OP posted about dormers right? You just can never know what post topic will inspire such discussion....amazing.

Jason...I used your plan to create a video on roof editing. Maybe it'll help you...or maybe you've already got this done and moved on. Either way...here is the video.

OK...I agree, the software will not place a brick ledge automatically. But...if you use "Auto Detail"...you can edit the fill and make it look correct. Yes...it's not a perfect model...but, I think it will get you what you want. Once you hit "auto detail"...the software will place polylines inside each wall member. You can then grab the handles and manipulate as you'd like.

You can get rid of that line by using "auto detail"....see attached. That line will always appear as these walls are on different floor levels. Section prior to "auto detail"... Section after "auto detail".... Here is another example...I've added a 2nd floor to your plan...the separation line appears. It has nothing to do with "pony walls"

I think you are right...I remember being able to just pull the brick down and the lower wall would adjust.

It can be done...see attached pics. I attached a revised plan. Watch the video... ky home stripped down - ChiefSkills Vers 1.plan

I created a simple little drip cap molding...and attached it to the roof as a "shadow board"...that might work for you? Painted red so you could see it clearly. See attached pictures.

Yes...just create a pony wall and use the same brick wall type you used on the main level. You may have to change the alignment method...I’m not at my computer so I can’t look.