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Everything posted by SteveNovato

  1. Have you tried "Edit; Delete objects", then manual or automatic dimensions? It should give you a clean slate...
  2. How about a cross section or elevation with the adjusted height, along with a plan note? I have been schooled (yelled at) by my engineer for 30+ years. My uneducated guess is that 1 foot of ceiling height will not change much of the engineers calculations... Steve
  3. I have found that Excel works best for me. Print spreadsheet to pdf, them import pdf to Chief. When you update the spreadsheet (and again print to pdf) the pdf in Chief is automatically updated. So many ways to do the same thing! Steve
  4. Each would need it own plan view. 'working plan view', 'working plan view 2nd floor', etc. For different layer sets I use the same method (electrical plan, electrical plan 2nd floor). Between the plan view and layer sets you can control the content on the layout sheet.
  5. I believe that bedroom outlets are 12" max. spacing so no point in the room is farther than 6' from an outlet (NEC 210.52) I have never had much luck with auto placing outlets...not much help, just my $.02 worth
  6. I use an Excel spreadsheet for my project data. It does the math as I have it set up. Obviously you can set it up for your needs. I print to pdf and import the pdf to my layout sheet. The convenient feature...if I make any changes to the spreadsheet, I again print to pdf and the document in the spreadsheet is automatically updated (as it references the particular pdf file). Project Data Worksheet.xlsx
  7. Dermot, Thanks for the info. I think I have it now... Renerabbitt gave me direction, and my daughter told me to put the photos in Word and use the Word compression tool. I was able to insert four slightly larger photos into my layout with a total layout file size of under 12,000 kb. All I have to do is remember this trick for the next time!
  8. That sounds like a genius idea! I will give it a try. Thank you
  9. I have inserted iphone (jpeg) photos into my layout. Four photos, 4 1/2 x 6, have bloated the pdf of the layout file appx. 40,000KB. I have searched this forum and the internet for guidance and have not found what I am looking for. I have tried all of the options (PNG, Jpeg, reduced the quality to 50%, black & white, grayscale) and the photo file size is huge either way. As a last resort, I have reduced the size of the photo box on the layout and reduced the quality to whittle down the file size. I would like to know if other have this same experience with photos...or, am I doing something terribly wrong to cause this condition? Thank you, Steve Photo test.layout
  10. Rob, There are so many variables here. It looks like a tough layout because of the angled wall and 'bump out'. I would guess that the bathroom door would open to the hall?? I usually start with the type/size of appliances the customer wants and place the sink, range and refer (then fill in from there). Sometimes, putting too much in a plan makes everything function poorly. If you are not pleased with the outcome on paper, you will not like the final result either. I know this is not what you requested...just my 2 cents worth on getting started. Steve
  11. Joe, This is what I have used for many works for stick famed and truss roofs (non-energy heel trusses). The insulation baffle is the note on the top right. Steve
  12. I have tried this using polyline solids and manually shaping them, as well as changing the material. I don't think it is a great result and it is very time consuming...but it can be done! Steve Wall & Roof Layers.plan
  13. It seems that the areas of buildings and lots most always differ, depending on the source. I use the following explanation in my 'building and zoning data'; FINISHED SQUARE FOOTAGE OF BUILDING CALCULATED USING ANSI METHOD WITH ASSESSOR MAPS AND DATA ALSO INTEGRATED. SQUARE FOOTAGE OF STRUCTURES, OR LOT SIZE, MAY VARY AND ARE NOT GUARANTEED. I have never had a plan kicked back for a minor discrepancy in these numbers...yet! Steve
  14. This really clears things up for me! I spent over an hour recently, trying to place the stucco color on adjacent wood siding...YouTube, forums, etc. all to no avail. It seemed to me that something so simple would obviously be user error. I have been vindicated! Thank You
  15. Aaron, Not sure if this is what you are asking, but...I agree with Greg. As a contractor for 30 years I have found that the the electrical design has to be adjusted as soon as the wall & ceiling finish is removed. It is easy to make ceiling lights symmetrical on a plan, but quite another story when the electrician is working around framing, HVAC, etc. Also, a good electrician will want to do it his or her own way, and I value their expertise. I usually provide a design for the permit with notes to allow changes to fit job conditions. This also accounts for last minute changes by the homeowner. We work in some insanely picky jurisdictions and I have never had an inspector say that the light or plugs don't match the long as it is to code! As for the circuits, I use a simple line drawing. It keeps the electrical plan cleaner, and satisfies the plan checker. I have attached a fire rebuild of a small cottage. It has enough information and is also simple and easy to read. Again, if the city plan checker is happy, we are all happy. Steve
  16. I agree with Larry...just do it. The first time I did a whole house fire rebuild plan, I got a letter from the building department with 42 items to correct! I was truly enraged. I looked up the codes and listed them in my plan notes. When I re-submitted, the plans examiner told me that the next large project would be easier because I now had all of the required information/notes. I have added many things to the notes (all from new or different requirements from the many local jurisdictions). My notes take up about a half page of a 24x36 sheet. It is a lot of nonsense, but my plans have passed muster even with the some of the more difficult jurisdictions. Most building departments list requirements and code sections of basic kitchen and bath codes (also decks, fences, etc.). These would be good items to list on your plan notes for these types of jobs. Learn as you's a fun ride! Steve
  17. Thanks for the guidance. I am getting close.
  18. That's it! I have been playing with it also. Seems to be quite time consuming...
  19. Thanks for the info Rob. I won't rest until I can replicate this!
  20. I saw the attached CA ad in a trade magazine. I have highlighted a 3d roof view that shows the individual components of the roof. Is this feature only in X13, or is available in other versions? If it is not exclusive to Thanks, Steve
  21. Thank you Susan. The 3D molding polyline seems to do the trick...
  22. Attached are screenshots of the different molding behaviors...
  23. Thanks Eric. I hade to admit my ignorance, but how do you post an image without pdf?
  24. I am working on a plan that has a 26" full height cabinet next to a 20" wall. The crown molding does not act as I expect it would. If the wall is at 20" the crown does not return on the right side of the cabinet. If I make the wall shorter, the trim does return to the wall (2 attached pdf's). I thought the room dividers could have something to do with it so I made a simple plan (also attached) without room definition or dividers and the behavior is the same. In my proper plan, the wall is 20" so the built-in refrigerator doors will open freely and the crown will be pleasing as it wraps to the face of the wall. I would appreciate any insight on how to overcome this issue. It is a very minor, but I hate to let Chief beat me! Thanks, Steve Trim Return.pdfTrim test.planNo trim return.pdf