SteveNovato

This may be a bit off topic, but...I find it difficult to impossible to guess what the homeowner and contractor will want for their project. I have used a disclaimer for many years on the electrical plan sheet to be sure these items are what (and where) they want in the end. So far, it seems to work with inspections too. There are so may ways to comply with the codes, and we have to choose one!

Could this be close? I took the roof section on the right side of the ridge and extended it downward. I also deleted all of the other roof sections that got in the way. I am also having trouble posting the plan back to you. Good luck!

As a retired contractor, I try not to add design elements that are costly and add too much to the construction costs (although some clients don't care about cost to realize their vision). My concern with a radius wall is that windows want to be attached to a flat surface. The other is fabricating top and bottom plates that are curved. If the builder is on board with the design, it will be great...if not, it may be back to the drawing board. I mean computer!

In the San Francisco Bay Area it seems that every city and county wants additional items from their jurisdiction. I finally added a line "any and all codes adopted by this jurisdiction". Seems to work so far...

The one outdoor range in the City & County of San Francisco had to be retrofitted with 2x6 material at the back and sides (at the rear). This was after a state of the art renovation many years ago. Turns out that bullets ricochet and that ricochet is very, very unpredictable.

Thanks Mick...that works in the 3d view. I would really like to be able to make the tub enclosure transparent (without using the 'delete surace' workaround in the elevation view). I will keep at it!

Rob's solution is just what I want. I am still on X12 and have not been able to duplicate the different percentages of transparency. I have attached a test plan (X12) and some different views. The bath on the left has a glass wall and glass shower door. I am able to make this clear or opaque only. I set the glass to 'general material' but can't get anything but zero or 100% transparency, no matter what percentage is chosen. The plan on the right is a tub with an enclosure from the library. Both enclosures have the same setting in the 'adjust material definition' tool, and both are listed as 'general material'. So far I have been unable to make the enclosure from the library transparent. My old workaround is to delete surface on one of the doors when showing a bath elevation. Is it time to upgrade or is there a solution? TIA, Steve Glass tranparency test.plan

Maybe a back clipped cross section? You can stop the elevation view from showing what is behind it. I assume you are trying to hide the cabinet?

I use a grey tinted glass that is more visible in 3d... Hope that helps

I have not designed a home with off grid solar, but there is (was) apparently a fire danger with batteries, along with backup gas generators that make this equipment better suited when it is detached from the house. This may be a thing of the past with changing battery technoligies (lithium ion vs Lifpo4), but something to be aware of... Check codes in your area for guidance. Steve

It looks like some sort of batten trim. Click on these random pieces to determine if they are on the framing layer...they are most likely on another layer that nedds to be turned off in the framing views. Steve

Have you tried "Edit; Delete objects", then manual or automatic dimensions? It should give you a clean slate...

How about a cross section or elevation with the adjusted height, along with a plan note? I have been schooled (yelled at) by my engineer for 30+ years. My uneducated guess is that 1 foot of ceiling height will not change much of the engineers calculations... Steve

I have found that Excel works best for me. Print spreadsheet to pdf, them import pdf to Chief. When you update the spreadsheet (and again print to pdf) the pdf in Chief is automatically updated. So many ways to do the same thing! Steve

Each would need it own plan view. 'working plan view', 'working plan view 2nd floor', etc. For different layer sets I use the same method (electrical plan, electrical plan 2nd floor). Between the plan view and layer sets you can control the content on the layout sheet.

I believe that bedroom outlets are 12" max. spacing so no point in the room is farther than 6' from an outlet (NEC 210.52) I have never had much luck with auto placing outlets...not much help, just my $.02 worth

I use an Excel spreadsheet for my project data. It does the math as I have it set up. Obviously you can set it up for your needs. I print to pdf and import the pdf to my layout sheet. The convenient feature...if I make any changes to the spreadsheet, I again print to pdf and the document in the spreadsheet is automatically updated (as it references the particular pdf file). Project Data Worksheet.xlsx

Dermot, Thanks for the info. I think I have it now... Renerabbitt gave me direction, and my daughter told me to put the photos in Word and use the Word compression tool. I was able to insert four slightly larger photos into my layout with a total layout file size of under 12,000 kb. All I have to do is remember this trick for the next time!

That sounds like a genius idea! I will give it a try. Thank you

I have inserted iphone (jpeg) photos into my layout. Four photos, 4 1/2 x 6, have bloated the pdf of the layout file appx. 40,000KB. I have searched this forum and the internet for guidance and have not found what I am looking for. I have tried all of the options (PNG, Jpeg, reduced the quality to 50%, black & white, grayscale) and the photo file size is huge either way. As a last resort, I have reduced the size of the photo box on the layout and reduced the quality to whittle down the file size. I would like to know if other have this same experience with photos...or, am I doing something terribly wrong to cause this condition? Thank you, Steve Photo test.layout

Rob, There are so many variables here. It looks like a tough layout because of the angled wall and 'bump out'. I would guess that the bathroom door would open to the hall?? I usually start with the type/size of appliances the customer wants and place the sink, range and refer (then fill in from there). Sometimes, putting too much in a plan makes everything function poorly. If you are not pleased with the outcome on paper, you will not like the final result either. I know this is not what you requested...just my 2 cents worth on getting started. Steve

Joe, This is what I have used for many years...it works for stick famed and truss roofs (non-energy heel trusses). The insulation baffle is the note on the top right. Steve

I have tried this using polyline solids and manually shaping them, as well as changing the material. I don't think it is a great result and it is very time consuming...but it can be done! Steve Wall & Roof Layers.plan

It seems that the areas of buildings and lots most always differ, depending on the source. I use the following explanation in my 'building and zoning data'; FINISHED SQUARE FOOTAGE OF BUILDING CALCULATED USING ANSI METHOD WITH ASSESSOR MAPS AND DATA ALSO INTEGRATED. SQUARE FOOTAGE OF STRUCTURES, OR LOT SIZE, MAY VARY AND ARE NOT GUARANTEED. I have never had a plan kicked back for a minor discrepancy in these numbers...yet! Steve

This really clears things up for me! I spent over an hour recently, trying to place the stucco color on adjacent wood siding...YouTube, forums, etc. all to no avail. It seemed to me that something so simple would obviously be user error. I have been vindicated! Thank You