Rich_Winsor

I'm a little rusty at this. Not sure if this is any better. Give it a whirl. The resolution looks pretty good in a sample view.

Interesting, I never really thought about it but if you put a default window into a default exterior wall (with a default floor to top dimension of 80") and take a couple of cross sections this is where the 80" is measured.

See if this works for you.

I whole heartedly agree with all of the above. However, since Chief seems loath to abandon the feature I was just suggesting a simple way to make it more effective.

Curt, you might want to check out this thread from the new HomeTalk forum. Kat has supplied some very nice materials for SS appliances. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/15-kitchen-appliances/

OK, so I have this idea how to make "Reputation Points" more meaningful. Generally speaking what type of posts would be the most helpful? Obviously the ones that were deemed by the OP to have solved the problem (i.e. the ones selected as the "Best Answer"). I propose that any post given the Best Answer designation should automatically generate a Reputation Point for the poster. I think that this little tweak would steer the whole point system in the direction of being a barometer of who is supplying useful information and away from the present "you scratch my back and I'll scratch yours" type of situation. We have all seen situations where a simple "ditto" or "I agree" post gets a Reputation Point and a spot on informative response that solves a problem gets nothing. What do you think? The system is far from perfect but I think this little change would steer it in the right direction.

Lifted straight out of Monty Python and The Ministry of Silly Walks. My personal favorite was this one on an office door: Department of Redundancy Department

Damn, I looked high and low for that bugger. Thanks Jon.

Whenever I have double doors I like to display them in 3D views with one door open and one door shut. The problem is that when I do this Chief always removes the doorknob from the closed door. What's up with that? Just because I'm displaying it as closed doesn't mean that I don't want the knob to show.

Hi Ho David. I appreciate the time honored concept of GIGO (garbage in, garbage out) and there seems to be an ongoing debate about the value of much imported 3D content. Given that I usually pass right over about 95% of what I find online, I guess my question is how does one tell the potential quality a downloaded object relative to its use in Chief Architect? Is there something I should be looking for or is it simply a matter of trial and error?

You must have really pissed someone off Lew. Apparently you are not being credited with the Reputation Points that you are being given. It looks like you have been given +3 points for your "Best Response" on this topic alone, but your reputation count still shows zero. If I were you I would retain an attorney.

In the words of the late great Marvin Gaye: "What's going on?" I found this crusty old broken window online (3D Warehouse I think) but when I put in my plan I'm getting weird results. Since my plan is a little quirky (to say the least) I have put 2 of the windows into a basic 4 wall plan to isolate the problem. When viewed from one side both windows perform as expected. But when viewed from the opposite side, the window in the far wall displays in front of the window in the near wall. Anybody have any ideas what's going on? Broken Window test.plan

Dang it Lew, I know how you feel about Reputation Points and I basically agree with you 100%. But you provide a lot of valuable input to this forum so I went ahead and gave you a point to get you off the schnide.

What would a guy from Boulder Creek know about stream beds?.... OK, just kidding.... Highway 9 all the way baby!

Not even a Tiparillo? Hey, I was just whipping up a concept sketch based on the roof plane configuration BeeoHat posted from SletchUp. I get what you are doing by refining the concept and positioning the hip rafters over appropriate structural members. However, I am not sold on the idea that the "doglegs" in the hips and valleys in your plan roof are present in the "as built" structure. I could be wrong as the only pic is murky at best but my guess is that all the hips and valleys are straight from ridges to eaves as in the OP's sketch. That's why I just sort of split the difference as to where the hip rafters would cross the upper railing beams and let the roof overhangs fall where they may. No big deal, I enjoyed the vids.

Terrain / Terrain Specification / General / Clipping - Un-check "Hide Terrain Intersected by Building"

Here's my take.

Agreed Ron, I soured on the whole concept when I was slammed with a negative point when I posted the quote you just referenced. I didn't even take a position on the issue, just asked how the process would work. Initially you could see who gave you points, now they have changed it so you can't. For my money I think they should just do away with the whole negative reputation point thing. If we want to have some fun and throw around positive points I'm OK with that but I think it should be up to the forum monitors to deal with the negative stuff.

Just roll your mouse over anybody's "handle" and you can see how many Rep. Points they have.

Has anybody else noticed that you can no longer see who left reputation points by clicking on the reputation count button in the bottom right hand corner by the vote up and vote down buttons. Is this an official change of position by CA or some sort of temporary technical glitch?

Hey TJ, hair loss can be a serious issue. I massaged your garage plan to clean up the roof planes and make the exterior resemble your pics. This should give you a good starting point. Garage-A.plan

OK, I want one of these.

Hey Timmy, here's the deal. I was using soffits because I was working with Home Designer Pro. With CA its easier because you can use Polyline Solids for the upper walls. Start out by drawing Pony Walls where you want the glass to be. In the "Wall Specification" dbx go to the "Wall Types" tab and define the Lower Wall Type you want to use and set the height of the lower wall. For the upper wall type choose "Glass Shower". This will give you the lower wall with glass on top. To build the upper portions of the walls above the glass go to your plan view and draw a Rectangular Polyline over the Pony Walls. Convert the Polyline to a Polyline Solid and set the pertinent values in the "3D Box Specification" dbx. to match the length and thickness of the Pony Wall below and set a height for the upper Polyline Solid wall section. With a little tweaking you should be able to get the desired effect.

What's better than a 90° Corner Window? How about four 90° Corner Windows. Here's a little concept that came about while exploring a HomeTalk thread about butt glazed corner windows.

I'll be back!