glennw

This is auto built - so turn on auto build roofs and split screen plan and 3D view so that you can see what is happening. The trick is to use a double pitch for the shed roof. Break the right hand garage wall at the back of the garage. Make the rear section of wall a full gable. Make the front half of the wall a hip, pitch 3:12, Upper Pitch 8:12, in from baseline 230" (you may have to adjust this value so the that double pitch roof meets cleanly with the main gable roof). Make the front double garage wall full gable, the small return hip wall and the front wall to the single garage a high shed/gable wall. I would juggle things to get rid of the jog in the main ridge - maybe change some wall locations slightly.

Are you using a Floor Overview camera with Show Lower Floors in Floor Overviews toggled off? The garage floor is normally supplied by the floor below. Or is it a layer display problem? Is the Slabs layer turned on?

Larry, i think the reason for the messed up walls in your original plan is the different faceting between the curved roof edge and the curved wall. The curved wall is a lot smoother curve than the curved roof edge. This is causing the curved roof edge (made up of straight sections) to cut into the wall layers.

Lew, In that case you are using the wrong tool. Auto Rebuild Roofs is the wrong tool to use. You need to use Build Roof Planes with Retain Edited Automatic Roof Planes checked. This will auto build auto roofs, but leave your edited auto roofs as is. If needed, you can also manually mark an auto roof plane as Mark As Edited - it then acts as a manually drawn roof plane. Then, if you use Build Roof Planes with Retain Edited Automatic Roof Planes toggled on, the roof plane will be retained.

Delete all the roofs. Set up the roof parameters in the roof defaults and walls. Designate the roo on the left as Roof group 1. Auto rebuild roofs. It shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes - this one took me 3 minutes.

Probably a good idea to make sure that Use File Locking is toggled on as well.

I agree, just auto build all the roofs - very easy. Set up the auto roof build parameters in the wall dbx (Roof panel) that the roof is built off.

Chopsaw, Yes, I deleted my first post that described and showed exactly that, but then on re-reading the OP message, I figured what he wanted. There will be some cleanup with the heights. May be better to stick with the 90x90 and draw a line down the middle and copy that.

Rob, What I did was open the wall detail, select all the studs, copy, started to drag along the wall. hit Tab and entered 45. You could also use multiple copy - there is even a separate spacing for wall studs.

A few more details would help. Once you select the wall, the Break tool should be on the Edit toolbar.

I would use an object that is easy to dimension to in an elevation view - like a polysolid or box.

I would not do the symbol thing. IMHO it is better to have everything in the same drawing, especially if it is only a house and a garage. Try Edit Area All Floors with a copy/paste. You may have to do a bit of editing, but it shouldn't take too long - not much longer than do the symbol thing.

Michael, I don't understand your question. I do set the curb thickness - in Edit Garage Curb.The thickness of the curb is from outside face of the slab. The easiest way to get rid of the wall hatching is to delete the Fill from the wall definition.

I would normally have auto rebuild foundation toggled on so no need to edit the wall.

You can control the kerb in the garage by Foundation panel>Build Foundation>Stem Walls>Edit Garage Kerb. In this case I think it was about 10".

Align Footing on Outside or Footing Offset?

Easy to do with a Schedule. There are all sorts of variations and options you can include. One of the advantages of using a schedule is that they are dynamic, whereas a Material List needs to be regenerated after every change.

Is this what you want. Or do you want to hide the garage kerb and the brick pocket in plan view?

Without looking at the plan, the easy one is the display of the dashed footing lines are controlled by the Footings layer.

Chief knows if you are placing a door in an external wall or an internal wall - nothing to do with wall type - it's the location of the wall that matters (internal or external). If you place a door in an external wall it should follow the external door defaults - likewise for internal doors. To see better how this works, change the default, say, widths for interior (say, 1 foot wide) and exterior (say, 4 foot wide) doors and place both of them in internal and external walls and see what happens. If you are relying on the door preview in the Door Specification dbx, it will default to Exterior - this only relates to the side of the door displayed in the preview, which has an external side and an internal side - even though it may be located in an interior wall. You can spin the door preview around to see the other side of the door.

Rob, I don't think you can do it with a retaining wall. But you can do it with a normal pony wall. I wouldn't use a retaining wall anyway - usually better to use a normal wall and a Terrain Break

Look up Truss Base in help.

What is the problem?

You could use a Post To Beam railing and reduce the deck ceiling height to the overall height of your rail. Plus some other tweeks to get the sizes and configuration you want.

Not sure about Interiors. When you open a room or objects dbx, is there a Fill Style panel?