glennw

Larry, Open the main room dbx, Structure panel...Ceiling...uncheck Use Soffit Surface for Ceiling.

If you want to move, say, a side of a square polyline and not the whole square polyline. Enter the dimension value you want. Do not click the Move Object button - that moves the whole object - just like it says. Leave the Move Both Ends (or Move Edge) button checked - this will move just the one side of the square and not the whole square. To finish, you do not need to click the line you want to move. You can click anywhere in the drawing or press Enter to finish the command. The last click you are making on the line is not selecting it, it is finishing the command (you can click anywhere in the drawing to finish the command).

Open the Layout Box Specification and use the Insert button to get this:

You draw the elevation lines parallel to the Terrain Break/Retaining Wall.

Scott Update. I can get the round tread edge, but I loose the balusters!

Scott, No, doesn't work - I tried that. It just gives the tread edge 2 straight facets instead of 1 straight edge. Probably needs a bug or suggestion report.

Kudos to Yusuf for his solution and to Scott for the video. This is my take on the spiral stair conundrum. It uses exactly the same program functions as Scott's video, just a different method to get there. My method took about 2 minutes. The solution lies in recognising that a single stair will not revolve more than 360 deg, but a sub-section of a stair will rotate over another sub-section. This video uses sub-sections: http://screencast.com/t/t6wIKFYBVbD There is also another way I came up with which involves creating separate stairs and attaching them on top of each other (not using sub-sections). The end result in 3D is the same but the plan view is better because each stair can have it's own line style and by using the drawing levels (bring to front, etc), you get more control over the stair display. Also, if you select all the stacked stairs together, the all appear in the stair dbx as sub-sections even though they aren't joined. The picture below shows 3 stairs stacked together (not sub-sections).

Simonas, My first advice is to NOT use the Material Painter to paint walls. Better to use another method like a new wall definition or a Wall Covering. You can add a Wall Covering on a per room or per wall basis - including a single wall in a room, or multiple walls in a room. If you want to apply a Wall Covering to only selected walls in a room, you can do it by selecting just those walls and add a Wall Covering. If you add a Wall Covering to the ROOM, it will calculate in a Material list for the Room. If you add a Wall Covering to a WALL, it will not be included in a Room Material list - you need to use a floor or area material list.

Rob, It is the settings in the Countertop section. Specifically the Flat Sides and Flat Back settings. The countertop is overhanging the sides and back and in the case of the island bench, the countertop is set to overhang the front as well. These overhanging countertops are overhanging each other. After you change the settings, you will need to drag the cabinets away from each other and then reconnect them. Or, probably easier, a 3D...Rebuild 3D should update them all in one go (after you have changed the settings - so as to avoid dragging every cabinet to get them to mend.)

I agree with Perry. Down here in Oz it is common practice to have the larger dimension first. ie, a 200x75 beam would always be shown like that never 75x200.

It's quite easy to get vertical changes of level. You can use either the Terrain Break or a Terrain Retaining Wall. Draw either and then place a small Elevation Line at the top and bottom of the retaining wall or Terrain Break with the appropriate elevation. Retaining Wall on the left, Terrain Break on the right.

Yes, I used the Wall Break tool.

Do you mean something like this?

What's more is that the polygon will make parallel according to which polygon side you choose.

Kc, You will love this one - a real hidden nugget. Select the polygon, DOUBLE click the Make Parallel tool. See what happens!

One good way is to open the help file View...Contents and scroll down to Whats new in Chief Architect 7...New and Improved Features by Chapter

Richard, Something has to "hold" the fill - usually some form of polyline.

For a start, you need to build the roofs correctly. It looks like you have built them manually. The central higher roofs run straight through under the side roofs - wrong. These roofs will always look wrong from inside. I suggest that you use the auto roof builder and uncheck Ceiling Over This Room.

Alan, Preferences are computer specific and stick between Chief sessions, defaults are plan specific. ie, Preferences don't travel with the plan, defaults do.

Richard, I think that you are in for a disappointment.

You can get a similar appearance with a Standard Rendered Orthographic Overview (Top View). But I haven't got a clue about the dimensions unless they are some sort of overlay.

I beat them to it in post #17.

Are you talking about boxed eaves?

Bob, There is no data in the file you attached. You need to close the plan in Chief before attaching. Take a couple of deep breaths and we will see what we can sort out in the Skype session tomorrow.

Bob, You probably need to make the ridges parallel to a correct wall or gutter as those settings only apply to that particular roof edge - not the whole roof. Much easier to try and do auto roofs - probably with some manual tweaking.