glennw

Michael, I am a little confused by your last couple of posts, but I think I may understand. And I think you can do what you want - if my understanding is correct. As I understand it, you have different template pages for you different plan "sets" in layout. You have pages numbering sequentially within each plan set (by using 6# for the label). But what you want to do also is number every printing layout page sequentially over the whole layout which includes all the individual plan sets. To do this, you can use the %page.print% macro in a text box on each layout template page. This will number ALL your layout pages from 1 upwards and will ignore your template pages and will be independent of the page numbering within each of your page sets. I highly suspect that I could be way off the mark with my understanding of what you have and what you want to achieve. If so, can you explain in a bit more detail, or better still, post a layout and the referenced plan with an explanation of what you want. At first reading it would appear that your first post was answered by Jerry in post #3. Or...I could do a quick Skype session with you if you would like me to take a look at what you want.

Michael, As far as I know, you can move a Place Point, just as you can a Point Marker. Double click on the Place Point and enter the location. MicketToo, It's quite easy to include or not include the Point Marker at the insertion point of the block. Place your Point Marker and Copy and Place In Place. When selecting the objects to make up the block, just click once on the 2 Point Markers and only one will be included in the block. The other copy in the same location can then be used to snap the insertion point to. If you use a window selection, you will initially get both Point Markers in the selection. Just come back and Shift Select the Point Marker and one Point Marker will be deleted from the selection. Then make your block and snap to the Point Marker for the Insertion Point. http://screencast.com/t/wZSBxAeoP

You could have 2 window with one stacked on top of another and/or a window using a different Stacking Level.

OK, I can do tomorrow. Saturday 9am here.

Perry, It seems to be a W10 problem, although I am no windows expert.. I googled it and it is a common problem. Whatever, it is now fixed with no ill effects.

I'm up for it.

Yes.

Perry, It is set to Balanced. the setting is at Advanced Power Settings...PCI Express...Link State Power Management. I haven't had a problem with freezing since I turned this off. I think it has also stopped one of my monitors from switching off and on randomly.

I have had a problem with my computer freezing up randomly with the only way to proceed being to pull the plug - literally.. Turns out it is caused by a W10 power setting. I have no more freezes since changing the setting. Otherwise, I like W10.

Rashid, Not sure if this will help in your case, but... You are not limited to placing and snapping a block by it's centre point (Insertion Point). This method only relates to Cad Blocks - not Architectural blocks. But keep in mind that a Cad Block can contain 3D objects like slabs, posts, framing, etc.. You can place the Insertion point anywhere in the block you like - it can even be outside the block - Chief defaults to the centre of block. Place a Point Marker wherever you want the insertion point to be - you can use snapping or other methods to place the Point Marker in relation to the objects that make up the block. Select the block. On the Edit Toolbar, next to the Explode CAD Block tool, there is a tool called Select Insertion Point - select it. Snap on the Point Marker you placed earlier. This will now be your new Insertion Point for the block and any copies you make.

oops, I think I just got a rap over the knuckles.

MickeyToo, The dbx's are different in X8 and have different options and settings.

MickeyToo, The information in your last post is incorrect. Or rather, your information and instructions are out of date and do not apply to X8. It would appear that you are using a version earlier than X8 as most of those settings do not apply to X8 and my suggestions are completely different than your interpretation. It would help if you posted your version number in your signature so that is displayed with all your posts.

Scott, I can make the cupboard any height I want. Don't assume anything! I can get ceiling joists - no trouble. I can have different materials on the "floor" above the cupboard and the floor inside the cupboard. I can have different materials for the ceiling of the cupboard and the "floor" above the cupboard. The last 3 can all be easily controlled by the cupboard's Ceiling Structure. I don't need a second floor and have never used a second floor when I don't actually have a second floor in the building. If you don't want to use "Use Soffit Surface For Ceiling", uncheck it and then in the roof dbx. on the Structure tab...Roof Layers, uncheck "Use Room Ceiling Finish" and specify a ceiling finish. This method also gets rid of the cupboard wall lines on the raking ceiling and is specifically designed for use with cathedral ceilings. There is more than one way to skin a cat. You won't convince me to use a second floor when I don't need one!

Rich, Mine is bigger than yours, but not as pretty!

Mark, To change the whole house level in relation to the terrain, go Terrain...Terrain Specification...General panel...Building Pad. Uncheck Automatic and play with the Subfloor Height Above Terrain setting. Ps. DJP and I were posting at the same time and he just beat me to it.

If you open the Symbol Specification dbx for the log, you can rotate them any way and to any degree you want.

Perry, You beat me to it. I was going to ask - why not use Auto Storey Pole Dims or Auto Elevation Dims.

I would listen to Scott. Your floor defaults are only used in the hall. All the other rooms are using a non floor default setting. Change your floor defaults and then use Default for all the rooms.

Scott, I am not sure. I am not tall enough to see the top of the cupboard. Ok, I just got the ladder and had a peek - there is a lot of dust up there! Yep, I can control the "floor" material over the cupboard by changing the cupboards ceiling material.

Junior, I don't like using a second floor unless I really want a second floor - too much chance of complications. Go up to the Attic and make the closet walls invisible. The invisible walls will remove the ceiling above the walls. For the rooms, nominate them as Use Soffit Surface for Ceiling. The ceilings above the invisible closet walls will fill in. You will end up with this:

Malcolm, No problem doing the first one you asked for. The others should be doable as well. Oh, by the way, no problems building a stair like that in Oz.

Mark, I think Chief will building the molding OK - but Chief just can't do the impossible. You cannot join the molding at the corner with a simple mitre - it is impossible - the 2 moldings will never match up. BUT, if you tell Chief to build it the same way you would build it in the field, Chief can build it OK. This is how you would build it in the field and this is how Chief will build it if you correctly tell Chief what to do. You need to have a small flat section on the ends of the front molding so that you CAN do a simple mitre at the corners. If you are not happy with the flat sections, then you need to use another technique like tilting the return moldings. Michaels pictures in post #5 demonstrate the same technique - only difference is that they are on internal corners.

Hey Scott, That is the other way of doing it that I alluded to in post #2 - thanks for drawing it. I would be interested to see what happens when you try and build that as close to the corner as Tony requires.

I don't 100% understand your problem....but...use decimal inches with a lot of decimal places (instead of fractions of an inch).