Creating Purlins for Roof Plan


sept1951
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I'm with you Perry lets just do it the old way! :)

 

It seems to me that we are talking about 2 different types of purlins:

 

1) A beam for a mid-span support for rafter that have a post at both ends of the beam.

 

-OR-

 

2) A 2x no smaller than the rafter sized to span across the bottom side of the rafters with a 45 degree min. angle brace off an interior wall at 4 feet on center.

 

A35's and bird mouth cuts are a pain in the a$$!

If I was forced to use a beam vertically I would rather run my worm-drive down the top side of the beam and cut an angle so the rafters would sit solid and then toe nail the rafters to the beam. 

 

I know hardware is necessary in certain situations but it in my worthless opinion (because im not an engineer) we are so over building single story room additions. Engineer are having me undermine existing foundations just for an HD2, making me drill thru 3' of stem wall and foundation and running all thread with a stinking nut and washer on the bottom side that gets poured in concrete. Give me a break! I guess my house which has no structural damage from the early 50's should have fallen down be now. Especially with all the earthquakes we have had. Yea lets just add another 4x beam to the roof with some A35's and while were at it lets throw in some more post and foundations.

 

I'm sorry! I guess I had to get that off my chest. :wacko:  :wacko:   

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This is common way we construct hones in our area, I use roofs as purlins, it takes no time.

 

Do they make you do any hardware to attach any of those boards or are they just nailed?

 

You wouldn't need to do that if you just used larger rafters for the span. A lot less work that way. Typical A-frame above 3:12 pitch

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Engineer are having me undermine existing foundations just for an HD2, making me drill thru 3' of stem wall and foundation and running all thread with a stinking nut and washer on the bottom side that gets poured in concrete.

 

I wouldn't blame the engineers for this. They are just following the Code relative to fairly recent provisions for concrete.

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Do they make you do any hardware to attach any of those boards or are they just nailed?

You wouldn't need to do that if you just used larger rafters for the span. A lot less work that way. Typical A-frame above 3:12 pitch

It depends, most times for residential homes, the purlins are nailed. but for steel ones we use bolts and it varies generally.

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I wouldn't blame the engineers for this. They are just following the Code relative to fairly recent provisions for concrete.

 

Some engineers I do blame to be perfectly honest.

I had the same engineer for over 15 years and unfortunately he died a couple of years ago and his work was fair and he had over 40 years experience and he used to be a plan checker for a while. But since then I have done around 20 jobs or so that I needed structural engineering and most of my jobs are simple single story and a few 2 story. Some of these engineers follow the standard conventional framing and calc out only what they need to that doesn't fit under the conventional framing category (this is the way I prefer it done). The engineers that calc out the whole job are going crazy with hardware and foundations that are unnecessary according to conventional framing. I actually had two young engineers tell me that they are responsible that the structure doesn't fail so they over build to protect themselves and avoid law suits. I think the newer younger guys just don't feel comfortable with their own work. I cant say I blame them with the way so many people are sue happy these days. After going thru several engineers I finally found one that is more reasonable but again he is the oldest and most experienced engineer out of all that I tried. And his prices are lower on top of it. Go figure!

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I have had some engineers tell me that you can over engineer. If the structure is to stiff and has no movement that is not good either. I think that was why the steel framed housing wasn't working especially in California because they were to stiff and could not absorb the shock to deaden the force that hit the structure. I'm might be talking out my a$$ right now so don't quote me on this. I have no bases of proof here and I don't even know if im using the correct language. I'm just a dumb biker you know from California with a huge Love for the Lord.

 

Respectfully Speaking

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It depends, most times for residential homes, the purlins are nailed. but for steel ones we use bolts and it varies generally.

 

this is common in other parts of the world too , like in Australia and New Zealand , Europe etc.... 

 

The Purlin is there to attach the Roof Cladding , not as a structural support.

 

@Yusef   please post your test plan thanks , I'd like to see your method.

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this is common in other parts of the world too , like in Australia and New Zealand , Europe etc.... 

 

The Purlin is there to attach the Roof Cladding , not as a structural support.

 

@Yusef   please post your test plan thanks , I'd like to see your method.

 

 

 

I need to remember that some of us in the forum are pretty spread out across the world. I's pretty cool when I think about that.

 

Nice to meet you Yusef!!

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this is common in other parts of the world too , like in Australia and New Zealand , Europe etc....

The Purlin is there to attach the Roof Cladding , not as a structural support.

@Yusef please post your test plan thanks , I'd like to see your method.

Mick here is the plan, the left one shows the procedure, I mean it seems complicated first shot but, the trick is how you commonly use roof planes with cad poly lines by intersecting, subtracting and union. you get a lot of capabilities that any other tool in chief can't do. The one on the right side is the finished one.

I need to remember that some of us in the forum are pretty spread out across the world. I's pretty cool when I think about that.

Nice to meet you Yusef!!

Thank you very much! Welcome my friend

purlin 1.plan

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