"Clipped molding" can this be done?


Larry_Sweeney
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In the attachment I show a chair rail molding ending next to a window casing. Is there a work around to show the chair rail molding clipped at a 45 where it protrudes past the casing? I thought that by running the molding at a 45 after I drew it to the casing, then making the 45 molding "no molding on this line" would clip the molding at a 45 but it doesn't. It just breaks it at a 90 degree cut. There must be a work around, but I haven't figured it out. 

Clipped chairrail.jpg

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1 minute ago, ericepv said:

This video from the Knowledge Base may help you out:

 

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/305/subtracting-polylines-that-overlap.html

Yeah but it's missing a lot of necessary prep in this scenario -- you can't just make a molding a 3D Solid in order to subtract from it.

 

Find the molding profile in your Library, right-click - Place Molding Profile. Place it into a cross section, select and Convert Polyline to a 3D Solid, and set appropriate Depth.

 

Then you can create a separate 3D Solid and subtract it from the edge of the molding.

image.thumb.png.841a3f997f091f80c2e72132f7892bff.png

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TeaTime............................I had thought about something like your suggestion, but I was hoping for something less complicated. Well, at least, there's is a way to get the job done. Thank you all for taking the time to reply----much appreciated. Have a great day.

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Renerabbit..........."Break your molding into two parts, the part that needs to be mitered, and the part that does not." I don't quite follow. I can easily break the molding into two parts, but how do I get the molding to miter on a 45?

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Larry,

Use a 3D Molding Line and you can use the No Molding on Selected Edge option to mitre the corner at 45deg (or any angle you want).

It doesn't work with a standard molding polyline.

Screenshot 2023-05-26 at 9.49.11 am.jpg

 

 

Screenshot 2023-05-26 at 9.55.33 am.jpg

 

 

Screenshot 2023-05-26 at 9.59.46 am.jpg

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Glenn.................I thought a couple of years ago I was doing a project where I 45 mitered some moldings. I must have been using a 3D molding line when I did it then. I guess the question now is, why a 3D molding line and not a molding line? At least now I know a few different ways to work out this problem. Thanks to all and have a great day!

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15 hours ago, Larry_Sweeney said:

Glenn.................I thought a couple of years ago I was doing a project where I 45 mitered some moldings. I must have been using a 3D molding line when I did it then. I guess the question now is, why a 3D molding line and not a molding line? At least now I know a few different ways to work out this problem. Thanks to all and have a great day!

Larry what I was talking about earlier if you want ultra precision you would take your molding profile and place it in elevation and then use a trim line to break the molding into two moldings where your profile meets your casing, then draw a molding line in the room, apply your first molding, then duplicate it and apply your second molding offset horizontally by the width of the first and then miter that one. This is only in the case that you care if the molding is diving into the casing or not 

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Rene...............Sorry, my old mind isn't quite following what you are trying to explain to me. This detail may seem quite petty, but I've seen it done many times wrong I try to make it a point to detail it, especially when it comes to restoration work. Right now I don't have time to "ponder" your directions. Hopefully sometime this weekend I'll be able to work it out. Thanks for taking the time. It's always appreciated. Have a great day/weekend!

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