Nominal Lumber sizes


mtldesigns
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Got a new client who has his own saw mill.  This guy wants to build a 4000 sq. home, but wants to saw all his own studs and he wants the actual to be the nominal.  Meaning a 2x4 measures 2x4, etc...

I know that is just a setting in the dbx so that's not an issue.  I'm just wondering in my head what kind of engineering or permitting issues we may have in the future since the wood will not be graded.  He thinks we can get by with this because the main supports will be steel.  IDK...   Am I thinking to much into this? 

 

I have put in my contract a stipulation, that any engineering rejection based on framed members not being stamped/grade, that an hourly rate will be charged to update to meet those requirements.  I typically don't charge for engineering changes is why I felt the need for this adder.

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I guess the best advice would be to check with the local building inspector as you would not get away with that here.  You can certainly saw your own lumber but you need a licensed grader to grade the lumber for any structural use.  Great for building a shed that does not require a permit though. :wacko:

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7 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

I guess the best advice would be to check with the local building inspector as you would not get away with that here.  You can certainly saw your own lumber but you need a licensed grader to grade the lumber for any structural use.  Great for building a shed that does not require a permit though. :wacko:

I am with Chopsaw on this.  The building code specifies the moisture content when used, so you would need to have a qualified person stamp the lumber with the species, the grade. 

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First of all good call on keeping yourself at arms length but still being available to make it happen for him. Good for him for wanting to use raw material that he milled himself.

Technically if the wall is not used for 'load-supporting' purposes it does not have to be graded. R602.1. Otherwise it needs to be graded. R602.1.1.

That being said, the wall would still have to stand up to wind pressures etc. Lots of factors involved there with fastener length...

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Being that he owns a mill he is probably very well aware that only certain species should be used. But then again... here is an anecdotal caution against using lumber just because it is in 2x4 form.

A well-meaning gentleman provided friends with milled quaking aspen 2x4's for building use. The friends used that material to frame walls of a chicken coop. Fortunately they asked some questions because the first two walls didn't seem 'sturdy' and could be pushed/racked out of plumb easily with a couple fingers. Turns out nail pull-out on the end grain of a poplar is scary easy. Version 1 was firewood after that. They used typ. framing material in Version 2.
Of course, I don't know the whole story but at the end of the day someone with a mill made 2x4's out of a tree with poor characteristics for building.

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All good stuff gentlemen.  

 

After speaking with Casey (client), he is not going to build for about two years.  His goal is to get the plans, and start cutting wood.  He then is going to get it dried.  Also, there wont be a knot in any of his pieces.. and if it doesn't pass the mustard, then it's firewood.  He wants this house to be here for his great-great grandkids and will take the time.  

 

I also brought up the fact he needs to check with locale on their requirements..  (and Chop and Doug have mentioned).  

7 hours ago, DrawingABlank said:

wall would still have to stand up to wind pressures

Here in Wakulla Florida, so def will need to be wind rated.

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