Chrisb222

Not in my testing. I reversed them all trying to get it to work.

Personally I've not had it ever work, but I did download both the original plan which @rlackore was able to resolve, and the most recent plan. His solution DID work for me on the first plan, but not on the most recent... which is very strange, and I spent some time (more than I should) matching up the settings and trying to find the difference in the plans, but was unsuccessful. Even with identical settings (as far as I could tell), one worked and one didn't. I even went as far as using two different railing wall types on the last plan (as was the case in the original plan), with no luck. So IDK what's going on, but when I run into this I don't fight it, I just manually set full height posts on the corners. Maybe someone else can find the difference in those two plans, why one works and the other doesn't...

That's because you're using a door symbol. As @DBCooperalready said, the door will only be clipped if you use a parametric (slab, panel) door. I think what @JKEdmo was suggesting is that the door would actually look better in real life, the final product, if it's NOT sloped. That is, if you have wall area there as you show in your pics.

I see hinges, so yeah...

If you had "Use Custom Text Style" checked when first creating rooms, and you want to use Layer settings to control the room labels, you will have to first change your Default settings to "Use Layer for Text Style" before those room labels will change. Then you can open the room DBX and uncheck/check Show Room Label and it will adopt the Room Label layer text settings.

Changes made there will affect new rooms. To change existing room labels, set it in the Room Label layer:

That's the nature of how the program currently handles parametric railings, which is pretty limited. You're gonna have to do that manually, lots of different methods. Here's a video of one method which isn't super simple but very effective: My personal method is to set all railings to have short posts, then manually add the full height posts at the corners. Pretty simple. But it would be nice if we could control this parametrically. Would make a good Suggestion.

Did you try testing the Auto Story Pole in a new OOB Residential Template plan? Then compare the settings to see what's different.

This may be the heart of your problem. I can't diagnose it without your plan, but something is wrong in your settings. It works for me automatically: Check your Default settings for Auto Story Pole Dimensions. Make sure "Top of Foundation" is included and that when selected, the "Reset" option is dim meaning it's the OOB marker name. If it does allow you to reset the name, that means you changed the name of a different marker, possibly Top of Wall (which references the sill plate): It also works with the OOB Residential Template:

Yep, we got those. Right next to the Sky Hooks.

Click "Define" and look there. You would want to create a new wall type so all your Interior 4 walls don't become partition walls.

Don'tcha love it? Lol, I see those randomly tossed reddies that don't seem to make sense, and when I get them I assume the person actually went for the greenie and accidentally clicked on the wrong button. At least that's what I tell myself...

Usually not a good idea. The way I modify roofs like that is to open the roof plane (auto roofs is off by this time), lock the fascia top height then adjust the pitch. This will keep the soffits at the same height. Afterwards, join the valleys using the Join Roof Planes tool. You also join the ridges this way, which determines the ridge height automatically: However, the roof you're working on is going to have some different fascia top heights here and there, and/or different soffit depths. And it looks like there may be a sloped eave on the original plan. So it's fairly complex, and takes a fair knowledge of how Chief builds roofs to get it right. I can see that your valleys aren't joined properly, since there is no solid line where the planes meet. That means that one roof plane is jutting into the other. The 3D may look right, but the model isn't accurate and may not work the way it appears in 3D. No offense, but right now it's kind of a mess. If I were working on it, at this stage I would go back to Auto Roofs and start over. That may be easier at this point, but hard to know without actually seeing the plan.

Click the little gear icon on the Library window (at the bottom on mine) and check "Filters"

2/12 is actually the lowest allowed pitch for shingles, but requires a double underlayment. Personally I wouldn't use shingles below a 3/12 but it is permissible, unless prohibited by local code.

You can do that in the same Wall Spec dialog I showed above, or you can click the tool that appears on the Edit toolbar when a wall is selected, which toggles the wall's Roof Directive from gable to hip and back:

If you're trying to end up with a more complex roof like this, I would still start as I already posted but would switch to manual just to speed up the process. While that roof can probably be done fully auto, I wouldn't spend a lot of time trying it - there are some tricky areas that just go faster manually.

I would do that with Auto Roofs by entering the main pitch in the Build Roof dialog, then changing the Roof settings in the Wall Specs dialog for the walls with a different pitch:

You can also select the schedule then hit the Renumber Schedule tool which will appear in the Edit toolbar:

Turn on auto roof then: Also make side walls Gable roof.

It will auto build with the correct settings. This is with the side walls made Gable roof, the long wall made Hip, and the long wall roof directive at 2/12, as mentioned above. Also had to correct an out-of-alignment issue on the right wall:

I have found that as well. Thanks for satisfying my curiosity.

I'm curious, since you're this far along, how / why such a fundamental issue as joist depth is just now cropping up?

Convert to polyline first, in the Edit toolbar.

Be aware the Chief videos were produced over several versions, and may be older or newer than X13. They do not remake every video with every release, and they also stopped showing the version being used in the video a few years ago. So some features are going to be different, or non-existent in your version. The basics are mostly the same, though. Also use the built-in Help files included with the software, which will (almost always) be current to your version.