Chrisb222

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Everything posted by Chrisb222

  1. You also have tons of control over the rise of the staircase via the tread depth and riser height settings in the stair dialog box.
  2. Now that you have them reaching the next level, select the stairs in the floor plan view, and drag the end to where you want it. It should automatically adjust the threads to fit, but you might not like the result.
  3. Hover over the dimension you want to change. If your pointer changes to a hand, you can click the dimension to open it and edit it. If it does not change, at least two conditions are possible: 1) the dimension is not connected to that object in a way that allows that dimension to be edited. Connecting the dimension to the object may allow you to edit the dimension. 2) you're zoomed out too far. When locating objects using temporary dimensions, at times you must zoom in to activate the hand cursor that allows you to edit the dimension. Other conditions may also cause dimensions to not be editable, perhaps other users will say if there are.
  4. The "missing lines" are there, they're just being cancelled out by another line in the exact same location. Do some editing of your lines to eliminate overlapping lines and all is well.
  5. How are you changing the color? Material Eyedropper/Painter? That's my assumption since I don't know how else you're changing the color of one of the stuccos and also changing its texture.... Some Stuccos have a Texture Source, and can have colors blended either with the Eyedropper/Painter or through Define Material, "Blend with Texture." Other stuccos do not have a Texture Source and in that case the Material Painter > Toggle Blend/Replace will do nothing, and the Material Painter will apply the source object's color --- and its texture. You must be working with one of these stuccos. You can, as Eric noted, change the color of any of the stuccos through Material Definitions > General > Colors. However if you need to match another object's color without changing the stucco's texture, use the eyedropper within the Define Material color selector:
  6. Fantastic! Very interesting and lovely design and decorating, super photorealistic, simply a pleasure to view.
  7. I set mine for 10 passes and get nice results in about 3-5 minutes. You reach a point of diminishing returns after so many passes, 10 works for me.
  8. +1 Personally I feel no duty to offer engineering input here but you made a valid point, structurally speaking. This program is for designing structures, presumably that will actually be built, with humans occupying the spaces under and within them. I see no reason why a valid structural concern should be withheld. A wall like that built with wood will be shaky no matter how it's done, and your advice was wise and valuable.
  9. What a mess! With all due respect, throw that away and start over.
  10. Yes. Preferences > File Management. Uncheck "Auto Save." Good idea, I might start doing this. Would be nice if you could instruct Chief to auto Date-Time stamp the file name...
  11. +1, this is me. I turned auto save off immediately after starting out with Chief. Sometimes I don't want to save, and I don't want auto save saving something I don't want saved. Hitting Command-S is too easy, and 30 years in the computer design business, back before Auto Save or Archives, teaches you the hard way to SAVE SAVE SAVE
  12. Deck framing should also have this control, Beams > Placement > "With Joists" or "Under Joists" I build decks this way more often than not.
  13. In case any Mac users need this, the App Store has unRAR Free.
  14. Just contact the governing building department where you plan to build, they should be able to help you.
  15. You can select multiple windows then Open and change the type, but not in all cases. For instance it doesn't work if you select single windows along with mulled windows. The easiest way to multi select is using the Match Properties tool but it will select both mulled and single units so it's limited for your purpose.
  16. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00370/adding-drywall-to-part-of-an-exterior-wall.html
  17. Wow, I never noticed that Chief stopped a garage slab at the cutout, and didn't extend over it. I played around with this and couldn't force the program to extend the garage floor over the foundation wall. No way that would be done IRL, or would ever be desirable. Unless I'm missing something, and there's an easy way to make a garage floor behave properly, this should be made into a suggestion...
  18. Here are four unique views of one foundation, in different scales, on two layout pages, using layer sets to control what is visible:
  19. What's displayed in the Layout Box is controlled by layer sets, or annotation sets. Select the Layout Box and click the Layer Properties tool to see which layer set it's referencing. Your Layout Box is probably referencing the Default layer set in the plan, so whenever you alter the Default layer set in the plan, it changes what's displayed in the Layout Box. If you set up layer sets for what you want to display (or better yet, annotation sets) it gives you much more control over your layouts. You can then change which layer set (or annotation set) a layout box is referencing in layout. This is very powerful because you can copy the layout box and paste to another layout page (paste in place keeps it tidy), change the referenced layer set or annotation set, and change what is displayed without changing the original layout box.
  20. You're welcome! Before Chief, when I drew plans on paper, or later, a 2D CAD program, I always worked in 1/2" increments for framing, and 1" increments for foundations. As Joe indicated, with studs at 3-1/2" and 5-1/2", minimum of half-inch is necessary for framing. My plans don't get into dimensioning things like drywall, but on rare occasions there will be something that does have to dimension to a smaller than 1/2" fraction, but it's the rare exception. Post spacing for 5-1/2" posts is the most common place I encounter this, since they're 2-3/4" to center. If designing a block foundation (don't often encounter those now), I tried to work in 8" increments when possible, for efficiency of block-laying. But I'm not an architect, I'm a builder who also designs, so I'm thinking of keeping things simple on the jobsite. Plus I just think a plan looks cleaner with only whole or half-inch measurements. When I work in Chief, my dimension defaults are always set to "Grid Rounding". That way if all my dimensions read how I want them to (whole or half-inch), I know the sum of all dimensions in a string will match an overall dimension even if some dimensions are not really in 1/2" increments (see example). I've never had any "surprises" due to this approach.
  21. Personally, I use 1/2" as the smallest fraction on plans.
  22. Thanks for that info, but I would probably run the software native on whatever system I'm using. I do run Chief on a PC, the HP laptop, but prefer the Mac. Haha, my "first" computer was a TI 99/4A. Spent some time with basic programming on that jewel. Then moved to a Radio Shack TRS-80... WITH dual 8" floppy drives, that contained all program and user data. No hard drive. Yeah, I'm old.
  23. Yes, it's a bummer, I'm in the same boat. Luckily, I was following the discussions here re: issues with rendering in X10 and so have yet to start a new project in it. I'm playing with X10 but still doing workflow in X9. I want to take advantage of all the other great new features, but rendering has to be sorted first.