Chrisb222

Nope, I just did it again, started with a new OOB Residential template, and after changing Window Schedule defaults to NOT include objects from all floors, created a new schedule for each floor, and changed the two second floor windows from W01 and W02 to W03 and W04. It's not a trick and it DOES work for what the OP wants, without macros. That's the point of my post. I've done this many times using copy/pasted schedules, new schedules, schedules from old plans... it works.

Guys, you can easily renumber the windows in a schedule using the method I described above. OOB, no macros. Window Schedule.plan

Easy, I do this on every plan. Once you have your second floor window schedule in place and set to display only the second floor windows, select one of the windows and hit the "down" button in the lower toolbar to move it down in numbering sequence. Keep hitting down (or UP) with each window to organize their number and place in the schedule as desired. See pic.

They don't show up in the project browser until you either save the camera or send the view to layout. If you did one of those, I don't know what the problem might be.

You'll find the definition of insanity doesn't always apply to Chief. Yes, try the same thing over and over, and expect different results. You might get lucky.

Curious. Why are you dimensioning to 1/16ths in your plan dimensions? Are you wanting a framer to visit your home in the night and leave a nasty gift?

Like this? 1411 Plan - CB.plan.zip

That is insane. I just spent an hour trying to remove unwanted, goofy-wide automatic exterior "trim" from a bank of windows, only to find this ^^ and learn that the wide interior casing that I need was causing the exterior shenanigans. Now to remove the interior casing and add manual moldings. ARRGHHHH Ah, the joys of Chief. Heading for the liquor cabinet..... BUT not before thanking you @solver for your presence here. I would've never figured that out. EDIT: For posterity, this pic shows the problem of the unwanted exterior "trim": This is the desired look, achieved by removing wide interior casing. Makes sense, right?

Yes, I've often had problems getting auto-build roofs to create this type of plane in one plane. Once I'm ready to turn off auto-build I fix it but it's close enough for a simple polyline union. When creating this type of roof by breaking the wall like in the OP plan, I have run into issues trying to place a door or window where the break is, so the gable line is a fast way to get the basic design going.

This ^^ plan has the wall layer on. You can see the gable line is snapped to the garage wall. It works.

Sure S.K.Fizette_Gable Line.plan

It did for me. Had to adjust the end points of the gable line.

You know what they say about talking to yourself....

That wall is already a gable wall.

The wall has to have a hip roof, and the gable line has to be outside the wall.

Eric's method in the video is really smart and works great. Another option for establishing a gable on a linear hip-roof wall is the Gable Roof Line tool. I don't do videos but if you look it up you'll find information about it, makes the process very fast.

I don't embed PDFs in Layouts, but I've read on here where people get around the bloat by converting the PDF to a JPEG.

This is why I always save a copy of every installer.

If you want to generate framing, use an invisible wall at the edge of the "soffit" to create a small room between it and the exterior wall. Make sure Walls, Invisible is checked to show in 3D views. You may have to fiddle with floor coverings, moldings etc for that little room.

I fixed it in a few seconds by deleting the two planes that are coplanar and creating a new roof plane in their place.

I would tell you the secret to great ray traces but I'm too busy killing Wall Street, picking tomorrow's Trifecta, and hitting all Powerballs...

There are also up and down arrows in the lower tool bar to rearrange schedule items. Can be used to clean up schedules with gaps in the numbering sequence.

No, you can't do that. You can only mull in one direction at a time. Mull the sidelights to the door, then mull the transom to the prior group.

Thanks for the tip, I took it.

Anyone know why dimension extensions on doors and windows have locate points so far out from the object? See image. It makes it difficult if you want to show a consistent gap from marked object down the string. I searched the forum and couldn't find any other threads dealing with the question, searched help with no luck, and watched a CA video that showed the same offset of the locate points, but it didn't address the offset. I know we can set "distance toward marked object" which can force the extensions to be all the same length, but if the dimension line is moved the gap will change. Anyway, just curious if anyone knows why these locate points are different for doors and windows, and if there's a setting somewhere that changes it...