Chrisb222

Usually controlled via the elevation camera layer settings: (Also available in the Active Layer Display Options panel, if you keep that open) You can also simply set your callout to adjust size automatically based on the text size, so the text doesn't exceed the callout:

Did you draw/edit the roof that's on the existing house? Once I get to manual roof planes or edited automatic planes (i.e. no longer auto roofs), I don't try to have anything new auto-built. In other words, why wouldn't you just create new manual roof planes for the garage? That would've been a lot faster than the time you've spent trying to get the program to build them.

I used to struggle with this to get the model to look how I want, the method I use now is fast, easy and foolproof (which is a good thing in my case). I use roof planes dragged past the attic wall to cut it, and place them on an invisible layer. Then I clone the ceiling planes, make them 5"thick and adjust to where I would want a false "beam" that follows the vault. These are the notes I made a few years back to remind me how I do it DECK WITH CATH CEILING: (12/18/2021) Delete posts and beams, set manually Create cath ceiling planes over deck Create roof planes to match, drag out to attic wall and set attic wall, Roof panel to "Roof cuts wall at bottom" Delete ceiling surface, gutter, and all trim from roof planes Place roof planes on invisible layer Clone ceiling planes and set to 5" thickness, drag to attic wall and adjust Create beams and posts from P-solids See CATHEDRAL DECK plan, this folder, for example

No, you're right the floor plan doesn't match the elevations. If it were me I would assume they want the roof to match the elevations, and ignore the roof planes on the floor plan. Or ask them which they want since they're different.

Because the railing walls aren't parallel:

The only thing I would suggest in reference to bullet 3 is, do the save as before changing the referenced plan file. Just in case you either A, have auto-save turned on or, B simply hit save out of habit before doing the save as. E.g. Open Layout A, Save As Layout B, then Tools>Layout>Referenced Plan Files, Browse to Plan B, click Okay

Huh, I never noticed that. I always migrate my preference settings so I didn't realize the change, and it wasn't mentioned in the new features document. I like this change, I always had mine set at 1 pixel but now I can increase that, and be able to see temp dims when zoomed out without cluttering the screen with all the huge printed dimensions. I know you don't like it, perhaps post a suggestion to add a toggle to select which mode you prefer, or a setting for both temp and printed dims? https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/forum/8-suggestions/

Controlled by the Line Style on the Layer the door is on. Doors are placed on the Doors layer by the software, but the door(s) can be moved to a different layer if you desire doors to have different line styles.

I run into that all the time, so I made some doors and door panels that I shared earlier. No beadboard option at this time, but there is an 8-panel option with glass.

...ooh bern

" When will we be getting this ... ? " Hopefully never, if this junk gets in the way of reworking the stair tool and streamlining condoc production.

No, it's a pitched roof plane that is used to shed water from a horizontal valley that otherwise would trap water. Where's your plan file? I'm not suggesting I would fix it, and I don't work for hire, but anyone who might help you is going to need it.

No it's not. As Dustin said, you have the TEXTURE set to 0 x 0. Change it to 600 x 600 and check your results: Also, your PATTERN settings need changed. You can't get an offset design from the single square TEXTURE image you're using. So if you want the TEXTURE and PATTERN to match, you need to change the PATTERN settings to 600 x 600 with ZERO offset. Or find another image for the TEXTURE which has a 1/2 offset.

Not if it's done right. For stone, I would open my source file in a raster editor like Photoshop or Gimp, Cut (not copy) a decent-width slice of the entire left edge and paste it over TOP of the stone on the right edge. This will force the left and right edges to blend seamlessly. Then, with judicious use of the Eraser tool with a fuzzy edge paintbrush tip, and maybe some Copy / Paste and a little creative Rubber Stamp tool work, you can carefully blend the left edge of the stone you pasted into the stone beneath. Repeat for top / bottom, then crop the image down to the new size subtracting the areas you cut. The larger the source image to begin with the better, since you will still see stones repeating in a pattern. But this gets rid of the hard edges seen in the OP.

It's snapping and yeah it happens in larger jumps when you're zoomed out, which is normal. Maybe you had snaps off in your previous version? Also, you can hold down the Alt(Control?)* key to temporarily suppress snaps so you don't get that behavior. (*Not sure which key on the PC but it's the Command key on the Mac)