Rookie65

No, because Matterport will show the windows. I just use Hover if I have to show the exterior of an existing house. It's one or the other, depending on what the job is. Or a client may do a Hover report and send it to me to get exterior dimensions for their project.

Hover can give you all of the sides of the structure. You take pictures from the 8 sides, and it generates an exterior plan from it. I find it to be ok, yet not exact. You can have 2 identical windows on the same elevation, yet it will show them as 2 different sizes. Their lines are not well marked as to where they measure to, plus they often overlap. What I do use it for though is to take the 4 straight on views, import them as PDF's, and then scale them to be the size of the structure I am working on. That way I can transfer their window and door locations to the elevations as I draw. It gets things close, yet I would not use them if actual dimensions are critical. Plus they leave off decks, etc. I like Roofr for just roof pitches when needed, as it is less expensive than Hover. Eagleview is another option to get roof pitches, yet it's pricier than Roofr. . I have a Matterport Pro 2 for when I need interior scans of a property for a remodel or renovation job, and the whole house layout is needed. It saves a lot of time over measuring each room individually, or for finished basements. That's my 2 cents anyway

Try turning off auto roof and foundation. Take the roof over the door and drag to the left to hit the angle on the left of the bay roof? Depending on if you have a backsplash on the counter or not, you might want to raise the bay to compensate for any trim the window might have on the interior

Did you try setting the invisible wall to "no room definition?"

There are several companies that do roofs from satellite. They won't get you entirely accurate house dimensions, though the roof pitches are pretty good. Eagleview, will have overall dimensions. Roofr like suggested above willgetyoupitch. .

Or maybe try a small exterior lintel on the bottom windows to act as a mull cover. Then the casing should stay as desired for the rest of the unit.

Something like this? I just took the middle cabinet, removed the toe kick, deleted the doors, made it an opening, and set the height to be 36" instead of 32"

They might just be polylines that you can delete. They don't look attached to anything

How did you draw the plan? Did you draw the existing, and then the addition? I save one version as the existing. Then I will copy the plan as the proposed and draw the addition on to it. Then you'll have the full house. If you've drawn them as separate plans, you should be able to copy and paste all of floors from one to the other. The kicker will be if the floors are on different levels. Meaning if the 1st floor is not set to "0" on both plans, aligning will be difficult.

I totally understand that happening. It's a bit confusing.

This is the Chief Architect forum. For Home Designer, please post in the Home Designer forum. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/ It will also be helpful to have a signature so people will know what version and year program you are using. Then you can delete this post.

And it was suggested to lower the floors to drop them down to align with the terrain. Plus there were other suggestions at the same time. If the terrain drops 40" or whatever, then set floor one to -40

Isn't this the same thing you asked about on 2/11?

Maybe it's not the dog ear, yet I thought one of the arches is more flexible on the size of each leg. I'm not on the computer to check right now.

Try a dog ear arch. Up here it's called a clipped corner door. Chamfer usually refers to something done to an edge along the length