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  1. Chrisb222's post in Exterior wall adding an extra row of siding? was marked as the answer   
    You have "Boxed Eave" unchecked under Build Roof > Options, which creates a sloped soffit, and your little bump-out is making the overhang wider there causing it to meet the wall higher up. The siding is flowing up to the soffit.

  2. Chrisb222's post in Adjacent walls of different types at 90° wrap strangely was marked as the answer   
    You can fix it with the Edit Wall Layer Intersections tool that appears in the lower Edit toolbar when a wall is selected:

  3. Chrisb222's post in Tile Pattern was marked as the answer   
    In other words, something like this:

  4. Chrisb222's post in Porch beam not right on porch ends. was marked as the answer   
    I run into this a lot myself. As others mentioned, lowering the porch ceiling can correct this. Also, if you want the porch ceiling to remain where it is, try reducing the size of the gable sub fascia depth in the structure panel of that roof plane's d-box. I know, it shouldn't cause this but it does somehow.
  5. Chrisb222's post in Auto slab foundation and structural questions was marked as the answer   
    1. This is not footing thickness it's wall thickness.
    2. On the Structure panel of the Wall Specification Dialog, the wall between the kitchen and living room, and the short wall of the closet have Bearing Wall and Create Wall/Footing Below checked. The bedroom walls have Create Wall/Footing Below checked. Uncheck those.
    3. As to the span or whether you need those bearing walls, that depends on your structural intents and goals. That's up to the designer to decide. Although it looks like you intend to use common trusses, in which case, no, 32' is not too far to span.

  6. Chrisb222's post in Stair Question was marked as the answer   
    That's the railing hanging out past the stairs. If you make the top rail narrower you won't see that extra line.
  7. Chrisb222's post in One story ranch house with detached garage (barn) was marked as the answer   
    Since your walls, floor and ceiling heights are the same, I would model it all in one plan. One advantage is if you're doing a site plan, you can situate the two buildings as they will be built and keep your property line, site plan dimensions, setbacks, etc all organized and together.
  8. Chrisb222's post in Railing Alignment was marked as the answer   
    Yes it will. Draw the new railing wall off to the side first and set it to "No Room Definition"
    I had to add an invisible room divider, perpendicular to the railing wall at the "top" end to keep if from breaking back downward.

  9. Chrisb222's post in Dog eared door was marked as the answer   
    Not much to choose from:

    There was a suggestion recently asking for more control of parametric doors.
    You can "fake" a center bar(s) using a glass panel style, setting the number of lites, and making the glass panes a solid material, but it's very limited:

  10. Chrisb222's post in Materials browser issues was marked as the answer   
  11. Chrisb222's post in What do you use to make floating shelves? was marked as the answer   
    I use the Shelf tool. I know, right? 
  12. Chrisb222's post in How to turn off cross section callouts for certain layer sets? was marked as the answer   
    Try turning off the layer "Cameras, Cross Section & Elevation"
    In this pic it looks like the camera view is active (open), and that you have "Always Display Active Cameras" checked in your 3D View defaults.
    That will cause the callout for any open camera to always appear, even if the layer is off, until the camera view is closed.
    Not sure where it is in X7 (been awhile) but look for a Default setting something like this:

    ...and uncheck it, if you don't want to see open cameras in views with their layer off.