MarkMc

I'd tried this once when I wanted a second schedule without callouts and fewer columns to use for copy-paste to a spreadsheet. Problem I ran into was rows that were rearranged didn't match the second schedule. I'd guess it works if the rows are left alone.

I found learning symbol stretch zones, planes and origins difficult. When doing that I printed out those pages from the reference manual and kept them handy (for several months Note-a useful tool is to have a perspective open, select the symbol in the library (open symbol NOT open object), alter stretch etc, then drag it onto the one that is not doing what you want. If your aim is good it will change though some varieties of symbols that I make can't be gotten at that way-too far embedded in the cabinet or whatever. Works most of the time for instant feedback. Attached is pic showing relevant settings used on the symbol I included in the plan and why they are the way they are. Origin controls setting to the floor AS LONG as the symbol is set so it can't resize. You need a different symbol for each height and width you want. Keep them in your user library and save the plan used to make (any symbol)-work out a system for symbol plans. You can alter them once made but that gets a little tricky. If for whatever reason you prefer to use the symbol on the side of a cabinet instead of the back the rotation and origins change-stretch zones accordingly. You have to delete the top and bottom rails (separations) from that face first before creating the space for the "side panel inset" symbol. Separations can be added back once that is full height if need be as I had done with the bottom rail at the back on the sample cabinet. Why use the side instead of the back? If you are using automatic labels using the back will turn it into a peninsula cabinet The will list as finished in the side column of the schedule-(I use custom OIP fields for side finishes so that doesn't matter to me) You are using the back for something else and placing it there complicates things. Why NOT use the side- mostly if you need to do something different with the side and I find it easier to use the back so do that most of the time. There is a suggestion area on the forum or you can send things to support. FWIW I had asked for this a number of years ago (likely more than once)-before there was a doable hack. I no longer want it as part of Chief- Sometimes a change in one place leads to unwanted consequences elsewhere.... First-I have a hunch that if it were part of the cabinet it highly likely that in a cabinet schedule depth (or width for extended stiles) would include it as part of the measurement since it would become within the bounding box. I want my cabinets to read -24" side extended 3"- not 27". Second- I always order extended stiles or sides oversize to be scribed in the field i.e. cabinet set 2" off wall with 3" extended side. Since the symbol resides within the bounding box (but appear outside it in plan) I can do that and slam it against the wall then move it out with arrow key for 2" AND my dimension will read correctly since Chief does not dimension to doors. Then if I need a detail of the cabinet it is all there and provides a reminder to note for installer to scribe. (win all around) Lastly- I don't need it any more, they made the hack possible a few years ago and it's easy enought. I already have the symbols (keep cabinets with them already attached in library so I don't need to do anything more than "replace from library" . So unless they could allow everything I already have from it I'd oppose it, besides there are more important areas for them to work on IMO.

Hoods- download the Stanisci catalog. Also make from cabinets ; make parts as cab door symbols. Medallion and a few others had hood parts as a head start. Learn about "delete surface", search symbol by Alaskan Son, had some hacking videos (may be gone though).

Info and parts to do it here Not so much "code each piece" as adjust those things you can get at to do what you want. Most common thing I use is converting to a cabinet door symbol then using it as a "side panel inset" in the "Front, Side, Back" tab. (can put just about anything into or on or as part of a cabinet that way... NO training on it specificially. Download that plan-open up some of the cabinets Then open some of the individual symbols to see what is going on with them and then read up on custom symbols, stretch plans/zones and symbol origins in the reference manual.

You don't need to delete it-you need to associate it with the annoset.

I been bringing along the older version of this DisplayLink Monitor to meetings for a long time now. https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/MB16AC/ Thin, light, no power needed. plug and play by USB. I've considered connecting via wireless to clients TVs but most often the meeting is in the dining room. I have a MS wireless dongle and most smart tvs and Roku type devices allow connection BUT you have to be on the same network so I don't ask. Asus announced a 21" OLED version earlier in the year but no news since then and cost could be I use WinAero Tweaker to mess with fonts but it has limits as Mick noted.

Agree Perry for towers(and still do themselves for Dell I think) but not laptops - Clevo only makes laptops, check the link

no, if interested.. "A little known fact is that Alienware used to be a Clevo reseller until they became so profitable that they were bought out by Dell." from... About Clevo

Um uh, that's a desktop isn't it P? AFAIK only Asus tried a liquid cooled laptop. FWIW the Alienware laptops were Clevos until Dell bought them out, part of why I went that way when switching from Precision.

All mentioned are Windows machines. BTW-Hidevolution.com (source for Evoc) also carries the Lenovo and MSI workstations with Quadro cards if you decide to go that way. Folks in the Clevo section of the notebookreview forum often suggest contacting Donald there and that there is a discount for mentioning Notebookreview forum or being a member-not sure which check over there. FWIW if speaking with tech folks tell them that Chief likes the GTX cards, they often assume it would prefer Quadros if they aren't familiar with it.

I've used laptops exclusively for almost 15 years now and would second what Johnny and Kbird say about heat management-I've gotten to be a Clevo though both times MSI was in the final running, just decided on the Sager/Clevo (next time will be an Evoc/Clevo). In the higher end machines both brands have good cooling-thinner lighter machines need to be investigated for either though. Some information on specific models for most brands (few clevos but some rebranded machines) can be had in reviews at laptopmag.com. More extensive information can be had in the forums at notebookreview.com under each specific brand, here you will find every brand out there. Now those forums are comprised primarily of gamers and geeks so it can get to be a bit to wade through. I look for the owner's lounge for models I'm interested in and hopefully find an initial user review; more of those are available for higher end machines than others. That means few details on anything "thin and light". Since it's my primary machine I've gotten around to getting desktop CPU's in them making the machine start at about 8 lbs and at least an inch plus in thickness. Those also don't have long battery life so I have to bring a power brick when I travel, which I do often. (I use the Spectre for quickies and job sites though) The upside to the desktop CPU (beside juice) is I don't have to deal with Optimus. In the early days I ran Dell Precisions with Quadro cards, switched to GTX cards about a year or so after using Chief. Back then TurboCad ran just fine on the GTX cards, nowadays not as nicely as it lags a lot when going to Save As but Draftsight (which does less) is just fine. There are a couple of Acad users on here, maybe they can tell you more. In my case I'm not going beck to Quadros. I always got the Precisions from the business section of Dell which got me excellent domestic support (unlike the home section). Since switching I get the Clevos, and would get any other brand from a reseller -prices are competitive, usually have more configuration options (depending on brand), talk with someone who knows something, usually include support with them on top of factory AND in most cases they actually test the machine before sending it out. IMO the only way to go. External drive-I have a Western Digital MyCloud (some number?) Works fine. Didn't like the initial setup instructions much but fine when I got it going. Comes with decent collection of software including Acronis (for imaging-I already had Macrium so use that on a machine where I don't have a Macrium license). It was handy when I had the showroom so I could keep backup in a different location, now it's on my desk though and currently hardwired for the main machine-wireless and remote access as needed. I really couldn't justify a higher end NAS device but it's more than just an extra external (Buffalo which is in a drawer now)

I don't know the answer - if it can be done you need one of the Gurus. The issue is that the foundation wall thickness is a property of the wall, while the height is a property of the room. If getting properties from two objects into a referenced macro is possible it's more advanced than anything I know how to deal with. Your other thread has similar problems-not a simple macro. What I can offer is when learning this stuff it helps to have a way to see what each object has that you can get at. Here is a macro that I got here (from Joe I think) that can quickly read the properties from an object. Import it into the TMM (text macro management) then when needed select an object, open TMM (I use a hotkey), scroll down to this macro and see what is available. There are other ways to get the information but this one is handy. Object Properties.json

Here is one way but remember that I'm supposed to just be a kitchen guy so YMMV I put in a gable line since I find them helpful for a little control over the direction of slope- drew one roof, adjusted from to triangle, copy-reflect, fine tune and join, changed the materials since the default is not set to match. One way.plan

Not at computer, menu, build, roof, gable line then hit F1 for some instructions. Try it in a test plan with just 4 walls and play with different settings. Trim at front is a different story

A gable line should get you going in the right direction.

Since you simply edited your first post to add the plan in I'm guessing no one saw the update, hence the wait. You mention glass but none is in the plan so not sure if you want it. AS it is drawn -just openings then You can draw the railing wall and the invisible wall and get the ends to look correct. You can also drop the floor and get the same result BUT if you drop the floor AND lower the room height to create that soffit detail then the wall ends don't work properly any more. To fix that I'd either add the soffit detail manually along with a second ceiling plane there assuming you need one. Attached is image showing that and the downside to it. If you go that way AND you need the walls to have different finishes on each side THEN Once you are happy with the placement convert to a solid, then explode the solid. Once exploded you can paint each face of it whatever you want. OR to cover the ends with polyline solids or faces. IF YOU have glass then.... If you do have a glass wall with a door on the front and a partial wall with glass above on the side then in the configuration you have (and many others) Chief will always muck up the exposed faces. You can sometimes fix it by flipping wall direction, editing wall intersections and or adding little tiny invisible walls perpendicular-none of which I personally find easy to deal with. The standard work around AFAIK is to cover the face with a polyline solid. (Unless someone out there knows more than I do) NOW as an alternative since I get a lot of showers many that are a problem- I recently made some symbols that I drop onto the wall. Each symbol was started as a polyline solid, converted to a solid, then exploded. Make them one at a time in a blank plan, convert to symbol, fixture interior-I'm still playing with the options tab to see what I like. Then read up about stretch planes and zones in symbols (unless you have just a rectangle) I then draw the walls for the shower as I would normally but drop these symbols over the solid wall sections if I need them. This will prevent extra lines in vector views, cover the end of the wall, allow a side wall to extend 2" past a glass wall, and let me place framing with only a bit of editing. A fistful of symbols took less than an hour, save the plans in case I need more adjustment than a symbol allows. The time spent was made up for on the very first job (last pic) used them again a week later on a weird kitchen.

Guessing - room or room molding polyline?

I took your symbol and made a new one from it-"fixtures exterior"-options inserts into wall-set depth to 4-5/8; NO origin offestes. One side will flush out fine, have to move it for the second side but easy enough just using arrow key. Once one is placed I used copy reflect to get them on the other corners. It is off a tad as Chop notes- I think it's off by the thickness of the faces you used to build it (don't remember if they are 1/64 or 1/128 but I think it's 64) We met in Idaho and talked about this some, I rummaged through my archives and double checked but we did not bother with the corners. Joe's idea is worth a shot too. A spin off of that is to build some complete wall symbols with cutouts, saving the plans to be able to adjust the cutouts as needed. Forgot- when I say entire walls as symbols I mean as fixtures exterior-either inserts into or hangs on a wall. Which my make dealing with textures easier (as does Joe's method) Dovetail Inserts.plan

I found all doors less work and better in plan than mixing in windows but all doors has the swing indicators in elevation. OTOH-I liked the symbol idea enough to go and make a fistful of standard "shower" part symbols. I get a lot of showers-the two most annoying issues I run into are an "L" shaped glass on a knee wall and a side wall that extends an inch or two in front of the glass. Yeah there are solutions for both but the symbols are a bit faster. Framing for the tall wall is easy enough, the knee wall is harder but I already have symbols for that but not sure they get into material list. While playing with it I discovered an odd quirk-If I copy the glass wall that has a symbol with options insert into wall 2-1/2" the wall copies with the cutout. Not sure how useful it is though since adding a knee wall there simply replaces the glass wall.

Yes and no. This is my second Clevo both were up-gradeable. Part of why I went to the wall on this one is that I discovered on the first one that it sounds better than it works IRL. My current machine is but the most I could get into it for a GPU is a 1060 with a kit which is barely better than what I have. OTOH the parts are far more easily replaced if a problem arises. So not needing a complete MOBO is a bonus (however I see that Intel is or has switched some CPUs back to soldered). As to the drives- what Mick said-the config I showed had another HDD for data since using an SSD for that makes zero difference in performance (I've tested extensively) and I wouldn't leave home without one a separate data drive.

Got contacted about this-what you want can be had for the price so long as you stay away from machines with desktop processors. I'd suggest looking at HIDevotution.com or Xoticpc.com. They carry machines from just about every gaming outfit and know what they are doing. You can contact them directly and they actually know a bit (but they are gamers mostly) I like Clevo machines-available as Sager or Evoc. My next one will be an Evoc from HIDevolution. Clevos will be configurable so you get to pick what you get (like which SSD..) Evoc comes with Prima Bios which is nice since the only downside to Clevo is little to no BIOS updates. In most cases you have to be sure to ADD Windows since in most cases they come without but will install it. FWIW I would not be without Raid 0 again-which simply requires ordering with two smaller SSDs instead of a big one and asking them to set it up (on Clevo machines) This one starts at $1500 and i7-8750H, GTX1070 8GB, two 970 EVO in Raid 0, 16 GB ram, win 10 home -upped the cooling the the wireless hits $2100. You could go higher on it or lower- there are other options and brands. Check over at NotebookReview.com in the forums-by brand and check the owners lounge for models you are interested in to see if they have issues (and yeah you have to wade through the gamer stuff)

I do that for all of them regardless-better schedules.

Easy when not really spending anything Looked above and below- 2.7k to barely improve from the Sager (5%maybe), 3K + to get a little better (10%) - the difference to this is a long term machine (25? +%) and the cost difference would be eaten with an upgrade or two later. I have a while yet, so will be checking both since I could keep using the Sager for a while and I like to try to plan these things so I know how much I need to target and figure out where in heck it's coming from....have to see what kind of boat I'm buying my dentist this time first.

Understood that and it makes a lot more sense IRL IMO. I was just fiddling to see what and how recovering from jet lag so pretty useless to do anything real.

I like Clevo laptops-great ports, good cooling, highly configurable, replaceable everything, zero bloatware. I'm on my second Sager/Clevo-at 2-1/2 yrs old it keeps pace with most desktops (I've only used laptops for over a decade). My next one will come from HIDevolution instead (one was from Sager, the other from Xoticpc). The one downside to Clevos is a lack of BIOS updates but HID works with Prima Bios who makes Bios for them and that is about the only way to get his bios. If I had to buy a machine now it would be a P870TM which starts at about $3k and I'd likely get it to $4k before ordering. If budget did not allow I'd get a P775TM1 which starts at $2k-it's the current equivalent of what I have now and would configure to about $3k when I was done. The biggest difference is in the chassis with the first one providing better cooling. If I could I'd wait until the first quarter of 2019 when the nVidia RTX cards will hit the market on hi-end laptops. (I'm hoping to get a new one toward the end of 2019 since nothing out there now gives me a sufficient performance boost). FWIW I check desktops every now and then and without fail the price for what I want is withing a couple hundred of the laptop I want. I configured a desktop yesterday with one-just the box and hit $4K thinking that my current laptop will be suitable as a secondary for several more years and hoping that this time the desktop price would be a good bit less-alas no. If it is a secondary machine and you don't need all the muscle then go for something with an HQ processor but I prefer to have a desktop processor.