DzinEye

Very interesting. I guess it's inevitable. Few more years and we'll see people gaming the system by sending them a live feed of a nicely ray-traced house and they can inspect the virtual framing. Looks good!

Ha!... now that would be fun.

To build the attic wall you don't need a p-solid, you can just build a wall as per usual. Go up a floor to your attic. Turn on Reference Display so you can see your main floor walls... and then draw a wall over the top of the wall where you need your attic wall. Select that wall and open the Dbx.. then check the box for Attic Wall. For the cricket, Eric (Solver) kinda showed you how in his video. Do you know how to draw a manual roof plane? If so, start drawing one right where the two roofs come together make it just a foot wide and pull it back a little ways. Open that roofs Dbx, lock the baseline and give it a 3:12 slope. Go back to roof plan view and shape its front into a point at the correct location. Extend it back to the main roof and shape it as needed.

Nice video as always Eric. I learned something new with the roof groups setting... thank you for sharing that. Only issue (if it's important to the OP) is that your solution will not show as over-framing in a framing plan/3D-view. Granted, over-framing doesn't show quite correctly anyway!... .but closer to reality.

Use a 3D molding polyline and create your own round molding. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-02882/using-3d-molding-polylines.html How do you imagine showing this on the plans though? If you're going to use a single 3D view printed on the plans it would probably be faster to print the 3D view you'll see it in, then draw over the 3D view with a big fat red line to represent the vent pipe. Not as cool looking, but you'll get the point across in far less time.

1. You'll need to upload your plan for me to check your boxed vs. non-boxed eave. 2. Per my previous email... use the break tool to break the roof where you need to remove the overhang, then pull it back to the wall and turn off the gutter. 3. Once you remove the overhang everywhere it should be removed you will have the 'clean' corner. Do you want your porch roof to be vaulted or have a flat ceiling? If you want vaulted cln'g you'll want to build an attic wall at the back of your porch. Didn't you want to get rid of the drop beams around the porch?

That 'gutter board' is called the fascia. The roof Dbx has a very precise way to adjust the fascia height (if that is what you're asking about?) you can enter the height to any fraction of an inch. To actually build the roof the way you are planning, the overhang on the existing roof adjacent to the new porch would normally be cut back flush to the wall and the new porch rafters would rest on the same wall. Select the edge of the existing roof adjacent to the porch and drag it back to the wall so there is no overhang. Open the roof dbx and under 'Gutter' select OFF. You can also control whether there's fascia or not via the 'structure' panel of the roof dbx. For the porch roof you will have to create a break in the roof overhang on the side adjacent to existing gable, and drag the overhang back to the wall... turn off the gutter for that section of roof. (When you select the roof, the selection handle that is highlighted is the part that the gutter will turn off if you select OFF when you open the Dbx

Thanks, that's definitely going to keep my brain cells busy thinking about the possibilities. I was still playing with this newfound leader ability... adding segments, curving... it's a really powerful tool.

Ahh.. now I get it. Before I questioned you I had tried the arrow but it didn't seem like it did anything... I couldn't see the arrow. I was expecting it to come off like a leader. Now I see it is the same position as the distribution path. Very nice... thx for the tip!

That looks very cool, but I'm slow on the uptake... little help? You're not talking about the 'include arrow' option within the distribution path dbx are you? I don't see an arrow in your animated example

Can't tell from your screenshot, but what I think I see in your first pic is a beam, not rafters. If you don't want that beam you can specify so in your porch railing wall Dbx. As far as automatically building the roof the way you want it, it can't be done with one operation. This would be a really simple roof to do manually, and that would be fastest for me, but you could do it mostly automatically by the following steps: 1) Autobuild the roof as in your first picture with the large gable. 2) Copy the two roof planes over the front of your porch. 3) Open your porch room dbx, and under structure tell it 'no roof', then autobuild the roof again which should turn out exactly as in your 2nd picture. 4) Now use paste/hold-position the porch roof you copied in step one and you'll just need to extend the left side of the porch roof plane back to the main roof. 5) Manually build the cricket.

This has come up before. I think most recently in this suggestion which you might give your +1 to if you like the idea: ALSO: In addition to Michael's suggestions above you can get a very helpful extra powerful zoom speed from your mouse wheel by holding down the Ctrl key while using the scroll wheel. Props to Rene Rabbitt for sharing that tip a ways back.

Why yes I have! Thanks for the tip! Thanks for suggesting... bumping your suggestion

Revisited my plan to refresh my memory. Pretty sure I did something like this but now trying it can't quite get it to cooperate. Try it, maybe you'll have better luck. Put a skylight in the roof adjacent to the dormer and unchecking 'skylight', and checking Generates shaft to ceiling...and selecting manually edit ceiling hole. Then drag the skylight over to your dormer and shape the ceiling hole as you want it, and break and shape the skylight hole to the necessary shape of the roof hole.

I did something like this semi recently,. But the ceiling was flat. Seems like the same problem though. When I get back to my computer I'll see if I can figure out what I did. Are you using an auto dormer?

No kidding!

Wow... this bit of sanctimonious drivel has nearly nothing to do with my comment and the minor part you did direct to my comment is wrong. I was only commenting on your position that "you should avoid these type of fascias". Why are you deifying FLW's business practices here? Get a grip. Your comment was 'avoid these type of fascias'.... well the 'type' the OP was asking is seen below in a picture of just one of FLW fascia's of 'this type'. Since FLW didn't ask the builder to tear this down, I expect that he quite liked it. If you want to give someone some design advice on this Chief software forum, why not keep it courteous?

Well... there you go!... now you need to rectify your post saying that you don't speak French! Bonne soirree mes amis

Vouz travaillez aussi plus?

Ahh.. .it looks like we posted at the exact same time, so I didn't see your post.

Well... what was causing the problem?

All while keeping a PG-13 rating too.... impressive

I tried the 1/16" frame and still got a shaft... but not the shaft, like Robert is getting.

Very interesting BT... how'd you find that out?

You can...just not the way you/we want to. Try MOVE in the the Transform/Replicate Dbx No idea on the shaft finishing out though... that is weird one. If you open a fresh plan make a room and throw a simple roof on it do you get the same result?