DzinEye

Yes, those posts where folks are wondering why their pendants are hanging on an angle from their cathedral ceiling are entertaining!

Yes, you're right. Definitely much easier that way. I had locked onto the OP's comment "I'm hopeful to get the light to automatically tilt with the slope of the well."

To get that to tilt I think you'd have to draw that wall of the skylight shaft with a ceiling plane, then open the symbol dbx for that light and choose for it to be flush with ceiling.

Thanks for making and sharing that Michael. After I decided to really dig into understanding this yesterday I figured out, just as you suggest here that the slope (or chord angle) of the curved section of roof is the key to the whole thing. Great idea to grab the chord angle from the 2D cad.

@GeneDavis If you're only given the information you mention, I think you'd have to draw it in 2D to figure out what the slope of that lower portion of the roof will be, from eave to tangent point. Then use that slope for the lower roof slope setting... and set your radius to match the spec. and lock the ridge height. In Chief, the slope setting for the lower roof is really the main driver of how things come out...at least it's the most controlling. It stays fixed no matter what other things you change, and any radius changes take place between the points where it bisects the upper roof and the top of fascia. Also note that the plate for the lower roof as it's shown in your detail is totally irrelevant... so just base it on the ridge height matching the upper (main) roof tangent point.

Because you very carefully pointed out that those all had to be set at nice WHOLE numbers?!?!

You got an honest to goodness LOL out of me there. Simply wondering if you are aware of the relationship, or if there is one. It seems to me the slope setting over-rides other settings in the curved roof part of the dbx. The curved one

@Jones_Drafting You might want to experiment with overlaying two separate drawings in layout. Your squiggly line drawing, then over or underlay the dimensioned vector view, with everything except the dimensions turned off.

But notice... although minor, your upper roof slope is 45.0° and your curved roof slope at ridge is 43.126°. Also notice that you said pitch must be a whole number, but yours is 5-5/16:12 ? If you change the curved roof slope at ridge to 45.0° then the radius you set changes. How to set radius AND slope at ridge? What is your understanding (if any) of the relationship between the roof slope and the curve radius?

@robdyck, @Alaskan_Son I've had to do a fair amount of these flared eave roofs now and while I can usually get what I want, I have to say that it's definitely not as intuitive as it should be... and I know with my current knowledge I wouldn't be able to match an existing condition with an autobuild using the walls 'roof' panel to set the lower pitch then curving that lower pitch. Since you guys seem to have it under full control, a few questions: My mindset has been don't add the flared eaves until late in the design because they just add a ton of time to any changes that get made. So that means starting with roofs set to the Upper pitch so the look is mostly like what you'll end up with, sans the roof flares. BUT.. I do wonder if there's an advantage to starting with what would be the Lower pitch...and then curving it and then manually building the upper pitch by snapping to the lower planes ridge? Something...More to Gene's question that you guys haven't mentioned; Let's say I've got my lower and upper roof pitches defined using the wall dbx roof panel, and I now select my lower roofs to set their curve. I LOCK the RidgeTop Height... and I check the Curved Roof checkbox, then I enter the Angle at Ridge to match the angle of the Upper Roof pitch, and the Radius I want... at THIS point, I should have defined everything necessary for this lower roof to form as I would like it to... but it seems that the the lower roof baseline/plate sticks whether you want it to or not. From what I see... the reason for this is that the Lower Roof Pitch over-rides everything else that's happening in the 'curved roof' settings even if you do not have the pitch locked. My solution has been that I always just let the curve radius be what it wants to be and I get the look of what I want by setting that lower roof pitch rather than a radius.

1) I don't believe there are any set standards for this, and besides, any generic time and date would be region specific. On typical city lots in some jurisdictions they want to see shadow studies for certain times/dates, but they would dictate that. For architectural study, you may want to know if you should design some kind of window shading structure for certain times of the summer. 2) You definitely should be able to arrange the sun to come through windows and cast shadows. But if you're meaning in a particular house orientation with actual proper sun angles relative to it, then maybe you don't. If you want to see if it works use the Generic Sun and try different combo's of tilt and direction angle.

Wow Mark... very impressive bit of manipulation there.

For size in mm just type it in... or is that not automatic enough? Sorry if that's no help...I am no Chief 'materials' expert what-so-ever ...

It's due to an automatic attic wall.... generated by the curved wall below. If you go to attic level and make that curved piece invisible the line will disappear. If you want to solve it, you'd need to build that entry area below as a 'room'... a porch, to come all the way out below that overhang you must've built manually. Doing so and giving it a ceiling should keep those auto attic walls from forming. If you do try making it a room, I would recommend making a copy of the plan first at this point since it seems you've done a lot of manual manipulations already.

Dropbox is working, but you didn't close Chief or something because there's no data in the file you uploaded.

Uh... and ya...I know... the dreaded 'W' word... another work-around could be to make that wall a pony wall from just above the windows, then set the upper part of the wall not to show..

I think Chop's idea should work, but if not, you could do an Orthographic Floor overview set to Top view and then use the Cross Section Slider to slide the cut down below those niches.

From their website: "We don’t visit your home to make measurements, but you can provide us rough sketch and we can recreate your floor plan in PDF- digital version.Please send us all of information you have for prepare your floor plan, and we will provide you quote."

New Body update 5.1

Sorry to hear that Joe... wicked tough. All the best to you and your father.

Interesting... I didn't get those! So... possibly... it's a difference to what I did and what I told you to do. I told you to do it slightly differently than I did it, only with the intention of saving you a few steps, but possibly it makes the difference. I used the Room Divider wall type to draw the walls, but then that bit of gable end wall above was the wrong wall type, so I had to change it to your exterior wall type, which then gave me the usual notice that I was changing an automatic attic wall and would lose the automatic functionality. So when I wrote, I thought if you made the walls from the exterior wall type set to invisible then the auto gable wall would be correct from the get-go and you wouldn't need to loose the automatic attic wall function. If doing it that way doesn't change the outcome, then I don't know what to tell you as that is truly the only difference in what I did. I did not manually delete anything.

Joe, In floor plan, go up to the 2nd floor and define that stairwell with your Exterior walls set to be invisible. Give the room type "Open Below" and flat ceiling.

Good idea!... easier than a p-solid

Also, if you haven't figured it out yet, you need to change your rafters to Plumb cut, not square cut.