robdyck

I use a variety of methods but I can't use Chief's 3d viewer. It's a tool that will send your clients looking for someone else. So, I use 360 images, Orbital videos posted (to Chief or Youtube), 360 tours, and 2d images. I will look into TM's 3d viewer today!

Post your plan file and I'll send you back a rendered image in a few minutes.

Are you actually rendering that with Chief or using a different rendering software?

Awhile back a client sent me a 3d concept plan that was much simpler to navigate than Chief's 3d Viewer. It also had far better graphics. I would have been very embarrassed to have sent that client a model using Chief's 3d Viewer. I'm not sure if Chief even wants to keep that app and actually improve it or if we should just all get used to using 3rd party / online apps.

One thing I've always wondered; we can create a rendering that includes great grass and the result is just an image so why isn't there a similar appropriate image within Chief for grass? At any rate, the image below shows 2 different grass instances, rendered in Chief. Left of the main sidewalk is a png and right of the sidewalk is a 3d model. The png causes more slowness than the 3d model of grass on my system. I wouldn't turn these layers on until I was ready to render my final image. I'm still trying to learn TM in those rare moments of free time.

Keep in mind that trusses vary significantly by region, loading conditions, manufacturer methods, and customer preferences. Typical to you and your region and your experience is probably not typical to someone else's. Although, I must admit, you are in the largest market in NA, therefore your 'typical' may trump my earlier statements!

With a molding, or even a symbol, you can add spacers, beveled edges, flex joints, etc. If you feel like going that far. In this example, I've used my beveled edge glass panel.

I believe using windows will create a bit of a headache as the corner post option will turn itself on repeatedly even when all windows have it unchecked.

There's other options as well. You could use a solid railing wall (Stucco 6) and then add a molding for the glass. This creates clean transitions above / below the glass. A bit of Manual modelling isn't any more work than screwing around with 'default' settings that are difficult to figure out and control and aren't designed to build what you have in mind.

Pony Walls. The glass wall isn't structural in Chief's mind. Even changing it won't get the right effect. The real problem is that Chief doesn't let us decide if the top or the bottom is the main wall type. The pony wall tool simply isn't flexible enough...it never has been. To be honest, I'd suggest you use windows. You'll need some manual modeling either way.

So why would you use those? Just use a solid panel and change the material to your preferred glass type.

Everything in the list contributes to performance. More complexity = slower performance. Unacceptable or unpredictable slowness is not something I can nor tried to diagnose. Ummm, how would I know where or how @Michael_Gia stores or accesses his plan files? This wasn't something I attempted to address. I was not attempting or claiming to replace Technical Support, simply offering some advice to reduce the complexity of the model.

For me, there are really 2 ways to accurately adjust that type of 3d molding and it works best to use them in conjunction with each other; drawing in section views and making coordinate adjustments to line segments. You will need an inherent understanding of the x,y,z, coordinates of your plan and the 3d molding. Begin by creating a back-clipped section view facing each segment of the 3d molding. Draw CAD lines to use for reference and snapping. Where possible, snap the 3d molding to these cad lines by adjusting the end segments. To edit some of the transitions, open the line segment dialog and enter the correct x,y,z coordinates for the start and the end. To edit the start, lock the end of the molding, adjust the values, then close the dialog. Then to edit the end, lock the start and repeat that process. To simplify things, I'd suggest you break the molding into simpler parts (keep the corner transitions separate from the straight runs). To prevent separate 3d molding lines from snapping together, each 3d molding line will need to be on a separate layer. For the sake of simplicity in modelling a continuous handrail I'd probably consider making / using 3d symbols for the corner transitions, however separated 3d moldings will work fine as well. Unless you know otherwise for the railing your drawing, many railing transitions / corners are made using pre-manufactured components.

In layout, select Tools>Layout>Referenced Plan Files> Select the file you DON'T want and then replace it with the file you DO want. It also sounds like you have duplicate layout boxes in you layout file so you may need to locate and delete the duplicates.

Specifically for this reason, we need to be able to add a light(s) that doesn't produce a reflection. Or we send everything over to @Renerabbitt for post-production!

Generally speaking that should work but just for the sake of simplification, my preference would be to have an exterior layer with the thickness of the cumulative exterior layers. This way, if you want to use a material region that is thinner, but cuts the exterior finish, it will still work properly.

@solver Eric...you're up...

@Michael_Gia This is a very nice looking project! There are a few things you should / could do to improve performance. The Terrace room type should be changed from Porch to Balcony. Read Help about these room types / functions. After doing this, you'll need to select all gazebo rooftop 3d solids and open then close (without any change) to get them to rebuild at the correct elevation. Chief's rebuild tool, F12, only works for some objects and others need to be rebuilt by opening and closing the object's dialog box. Either Chief doesn't know about this or care about it or know how to correct it. Remove unnecessary layers from walls / floor. Building Paper / foam underlayment etc., are usually not needed in the model. If you don't need them, remove them. Wherever possible, don't replicate 3d objects on floors. For items like furniture, water heaters, cabinets even, I'd place CAD blocks instead of 3d objects. 3d objects would make sense to use for 1 suite of each type only. This will drastically reduce the surface count. I'd suggest a Saved Plan View and Layer Set just for landscaping and exterior modelling. Turn off / lock layers that don't pertain to that type of work. I'd suggest a Saved Plan View and Layer Set just for Interior Finishing. Turn off / lock layers that don't pertain to that type of work. This is where I'd deal with cabinets, interior fixtures, room labels, furniture. For Walls in plan views, turn on 'Main Layer Only', wherever possible. This is of course a personal preference, and if you want them to show in con docs, then I'd display them there, but not everywhere. For plan views (except larger scale interior detail plans), turn off the Casing Layers. They won't be visible when printed anyhow. For Exterior Walls, You could combine all exterior layers into 1 layer of the cumulative thickness. Same for interior layers. Chief doesn't handle all these layers well on a large house much less a multi-story apartment. For Section Views, you could turn off most or all interior finish items. Cabinet layouts and elevations, if needed, could be sent to layout using wall / room elevations with a separate layer set.