Larry_Sweeney

Joe..................That was my problem. The last 9 months I've used the program very little due to other commitments. It's amazing all the "little" things I forgot.------Ah-h or is it my age. Thanks for your time and have a great day.

Is there a way to cover a section of a reference layer when it is being used to show parts of another floor? I tried to use a hatch filled polyline by making it the "front group", but the ref. layer still showed. I must be missing something.

Thanks to all for your advice and suggestions. In the process of waiting I just went ahead and manually changed the joist to the direction I was after. When I have time I'll play with Michael's suggestion. Have a great day.

Is there a place or method, other than manually, to change the joist direction of a dropped ceiling? I thought I read a thread sometime ago that it was possible, but I can't locate it. Also, is it possible to frame a regular ceiling independently of other framing? Thanks to all for your time and advice in advance.

Sorry I didn't get back to this earlier. I manually moved the wall down and then back to it's original position and drywall showed up on the bottom of the framing. I guess this would be considered a "work around"--------------- go figure. Thanks to all for your time and advice. Have a great day.

Is there a simple solution to fix the problem shown in the attachment? I'm sure this has been discussed before, but my search did not find it. If not I'll attach the plan later. Thank you for your time and patience.

Perry...............Thank you for your advice and time. Enjoy your weekend.

Perry.............................Thank you for your time. It's greatly appreciated. Do you think the answer to my second question is to just manually center 4x4 newel post in the railing between the 6x6 "Post to Beam" post? Have a great day and weekend! Berlin work study.zip

Perry...............................? Sorry. I don't understand. Can you reference me to a training video as to what you are asking me? Dermot............................ I do have "Post to Rail" checked. I stated in my original thread I have post (post to beam) on 12' centers, but I want newels (to the hand rail) spaced between the post on 6' centers. If I change my newel post to 6' spacing then the "post to beam" spacing changes to 6'centers. Am I missing something? I'm posting the work study plan. Please understand, this is a "work study". There are many issues to be ironed out. Number one is the customer's ideas as to what he wants and my ideas as to what he should have and how it should look. Berlin work study.zip

I have a railing wall where I attached a stairs. The stairs made a opening in the wall, as it should, but the railing does not go over the newels at the opening. (attach picture) I've been playing around with this for a while and I'm not getting anywhere. Is there a fix for this other than adding railing superimposed over the original railing and extending over the post manually? I haven't work with the program much as of late and I'm a little "rusty", but I don't remember having this problem in earlier versions. I'm hoping there's a simple answer. If not I'll attach the "work in process" plan later. One other question. I have my 4" railing wall set for 6x6 post every 12'. Is there some way to set a 4x4 post to the rail on 6' centers between these post? Is this also something that needs to be done manually?

How does that saying go...........stupid is, stupid does Thanks guys. Can I blame this thread on old age? Have a great day.

I was playing around with using moldings for lap siding on a wall with windows. All my molding p-lines were showing. I closed out the plan for awhile then reopened it. The molding p-lines were no longer showing in plan view. I checked my layers and the molding layer was on. I changed the line weight to 50 and the color to red thinking they might show up, but to no avail. No way to click on the molding in plan view. If I go to an elevation or camera view my moldings are there and I'm able to click on them. I went back to plan view and drew a line, changed it to a molding p-line and applied a molding. This molding p-line shows on plan view. I then closed out the plan, then reopened it.the last molding p-line I had made was still showing, but none of the earlier p-lines for the lap siding molding are still not showing. I tried the ALL ON layer set thinking maybe they were on some other layer, but they still didn't show. Has anyone else experienced this? I've attached the work study plan. If someone opens it I'm hoping you have the same problem. Thanks for your time----it's always appreciated. work study.zip

Bob & Chopsaw..............................Cad details is the way I went. In the wall definition I just left a 3/4" airspace and then in cross sections drew in cross boxes to represent the furring. Thanks for your time and advice. Have a great day.

Is there a way to make a wall type showing 1x3 furring strips applied horizontal to the studs that shows in a cross section? Thank you in advance for your time and advice.

Does anyone have or know where I can find a vertical V-groove redwood siding texture? Thank you in advance for your time and advice.

Scott & Michael........................Worked! Thank you for your time. Have a great day

I have a couple of foundation wall connecting problems for an as built foundation I'm trying to represent. I seem to remember there was a thread some time ago on this, but I could not locate it. 1. Angled wall connecting to a 90 degree corner. Is there a way to have the look of a proper connection without using CAD "fill-ins"? (Images "Wise foundation 1" & "Wise foundation 2") 2. I want to extend the thick wall 6" past the corner. (Image "Wise foundation 3") I've attached the plan for the foundation.I'll be out of my office most of the day so I will not be able to respond to any questions till later in the day. Thank you to all in advance for your time and advice. Berlins Wise Foundation.zip

Joe............I've been doing a little experimenting with this problem. First I moved the half wall, which was lined up with the back of the cabinet, out of the room. Then I applied the molding to the top of the cabinet, which went all the way around as it should. I then moved the half wall back to it's correct position and the molding stayed. ----------- interesting.

Michael...............I thought that the/a cornice (or cornice molding) was a series of moldings put together for a certain look, whereas a crown or cove was just a particular type of molding that could be part of the cornice. To All........After reading your advice I realized that my cabinets were not up against an invisible wall or room divider, but the back of the cabinet did line up with a half wall used to support a bar height countertop. This half wall was causing my problem. I don't know if CA would call this a bug, but to me it is. Thank you to all for your advice. Have a great day.

I have a wall cabinet hanging from the ceiling with glass doors on front and back and is exposed on all four sides. I attempted to add a cornice molding, but it is only on the sides and the front. Am I missing something or do I have to install the cornice on this cabinet manually because this is a "flaw" in CA? As always I appreciate your time taken in answering my questions.

My guess is that you will have to do it manually using a 3D molding p-line. This may still prove to be a little tricky where the horizontal line of the ceiling changes to the sloped ceiling area at the corners, but I believe it can be accomplished. Think how it would be done in "real life" and getting the crown molding to match up and come together in those areas. If I get a chance later today I'll try to show an example.

Jon..............Thanks for the quick reply. Is this stated somewhere and I missed it? Have a great day.

This is the first time I've tried to use the new X8 3d viewer with a client. When I go to "Export/Export Chief Architect 3D Viewer File" it's greyed out. Am I missing a step or what? I have the file opened that I want to export. Thanks in advance for your help.

From your pictures it's hard to tell what I'm looking at. This looks like some type of new construction and not a typical Mansard style roof. The "stone" material is slate. Slate normally is installed on much steeper pitches. In the picture it's hard to tell what the pitch is, but it doesn't look steep enough for the use of slate. Slate was used quite often (if not always) during the time when the Mansard style was poplar, but only on the steep pitched area. The flatter top and overhang sections were almost always flat seamed tin. To save on cost today these less sloped areas would probably be covered by rubber membrane roofing. One thing most people don't think about is that a flat seamed tin roof, properly installed and taken care of, can last 100 years. A rubber membrane roof won't last a third of that time.

Monty..........I would design it just like you would build it. The pitch on the overhang area should be no less than 1.5/12 and 2 to 2.5 even better. It depends on where you locate the gutter and how deep you make your overhang. The material for roofing this overhang should be either flat seamed tin or copper. The use of any other material and I'm sure you with run into water problems in short order. Before doing a project like this, do your "homework". If at all possible study some actual Mansard roofs up close. If that isn't possible, you should be able to find info on the internet. What area of the country do you live in? Snow load & ice damming could be a factor you should think about also.