Larry_Sweeney
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Perry...............Thank you for your advice and time. Enjoy your weekend.
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Perry.............................Thank you for your time. It's greatly appreciated. Do you think the answer to my second question is to just manually center 4x4 newel post in the railing between the 6x6 "Post to Beam" post? Have a great day and weekend! Berlin work study.zip
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Perry...............................? Sorry. I don't understand. Can you reference me to a training video as to what you are asking me? Dermot............................ I do have "Post to Rail" checked. I stated in my original thread I have post (post to beam) on 12' centers, but I want newels (to the hand rail) spaced between the post on 6' centers. If I change my newel post to 6' spacing then the "post to beam" spacing changes to 6'centers. Am I missing something? I'm posting the work study plan. Please understand, this is a "work study". There are many issues to be ironed out. Number one is the customer's ideas as to what he wants and my ideas as to what he should have and how it should look. Berlin work study.zip
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I have a railing wall where I attached a stairs. The stairs made a opening in the wall, as it should, but the railing does not go over the newels at the opening. (attach picture) I've been playing around with this for a while and I'm not getting anywhere. Is there a fix for this other than adding railing superimposed over the original railing and extending over the post manually? I haven't work with the program much as of late and I'm a little "rusty", but I don't remember having this problem in earlier versions. I'm hoping there's a simple answer. If not I'll attach the "work in process" plan later. One other question. I have my 4" railing wall set for 6x6 post every 12'. Is there some way to set a 4x4 post to the rail on 6' centers between these post? Is this also something that needs to be done manually?
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How does that saying go...........stupid is, stupid does Thanks guys. Can I blame this thread on old age? Have a great day.
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I was playing around with using moldings for lap siding on a wall with windows. All my molding p-lines were showing. I closed out the plan for awhile then reopened it. The molding p-lines were no longer showing in plan view. I checked my layers and the molding layer was on. I changed the line weight to 50 and the color to red thinking they might show up, but to no avail. No way to click on the molding in plan view. If I go to an elevation or camera view my moldings are there and I'm able to click on them. I went back to plan view and drew a line, changed it to a molding p-line and applied a molding. This molding p-line shows on plan view. I then closed out the plan, then reopened it.the last molding p-line I had made was still showing, but none of the earlier p-lines for the lap siding molding are still not showing. I tried the ALL ON layer set thinking maybe they were on some other layer, but they still didn't show. Has anyone else experienced this? I've attached the work study plan. If someone opens it I'm hoping you have the same problem. Thanks for your time----it's always appreciated. work study.zip
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horizontal furring in a wall definition
Larry_Sweeney replied to Larry_Sweeney's topic in General Q & A
Bob & Chopsaw..............................Cad details is the way I went. In the wall definition I just left a 3/4" airspace and then in cross sections drew in cross boxes to represent the furring. Thanks for your time and advice. Have a great day. -
Is there a way to make a wall type showing 1x3 furring strips applied horizontal to the studs that shows in a cross section? Thank you in advance for your time and advice.
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Does anyone have or know where I can find a vertical V-groove redwood siding texture? Thank you in advance for your time and advice.
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Scott & Michael........................Worked! Thank you for your time. Have a great day
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I have a couple of foundation wall connecting problems for an as built foundation I'm trying to represent. I seem to remember there was a thread some time ago on this, but I could not locate it. 1. Angled wall connecting to a 90 degree corner. Is there a way to have the look of a proper connection without using CAD "fill-ins"? (Images "Wise foundation 1" & "Wise foundation 2") 2. I want to extend the thick wall 6" past the corner. (Image "Wise foundation 3") I've attached the plan for the foundation.I'll be out of my office most of the day so I will not be able to respond to any questions till later in the day. Thank you to all in advance for your time and advice. Berlins Wise Foundation.zip
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Joe............I've been doing a little experimenting with this problem. First I moved the half wall, which was lined up with the back of the cabinet, out of the room. Then I applied the molding to the top of the cabinet, which went all the way around as it should. I then moved the half wall back to it's correct position and the molding stayed. ----------- interesting.
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Michael...............I thought that the/a cornice (or cornice molding) was a series of moldings put together for a certain look, whereas a crown or cove was just a particular type of molding that could be part of the cornice. To All........After reading your advice I realized that my cabinets were not up against an invisible wall or room divider, but the back of the cabinet did line up with a half wall used to support a bar height countertop. This half wall was causing my problem. I don't know if CA would call this a bug, but to me it is. Thank you to all for your advice. Have a great day.
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I have a wall cabinet hanging from the ceiling with glass doors on front and back and is exposed on all four sides. I attempted to add a cornice molding, but it is only on the sides and the front. Am I missing something or do I have to install the cornice on this cabinet manually because this is a "flaw" in CA? As always I appreciate your time taken in answering my questions.
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My guess is that you will have to do it manually using a 3D molding p-line. This may still prove to be a little tricky where the horizontal line of the ceiling changes to the sloped ceiling area at the corners, but I believe it can be accomplished. Think how it would be done in "real life" and getting the crown molding to match up and come together in those areas. If I get a chance later today I'll try to show an example.
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Jon..............Thanks for the quick reply. Is this stated somewhere and I missed it? Have a great day.
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This is the first time I've tried to use the new X8 3d viewer with a client. When I go to "Export/Export Chief Architect 3D Viewer File" it's greyed out. Am I missing a step or what? I have the file opened that I want to export. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Mansard roof with flat eaves. 3 roof pitches per side?
Larry_Sweeney replied to Hyrule's topic in General Q & A
From your pictures it's hard to tell what I'm looking at. This looks like some type of new construction and not a typical Mansard style roof. The "stone" material is slate. Slate normally is installed on much steeper pitches. In the picture it's hard to tell what the pitch is, but it doesn't look steep enough for the use of slate. Slate was used quite often (if not always) during the time when the Mansard style was poplar, but only on the steep pitched area. The flatter top and overhang sections were almost always flat seamed tin. To save on cost today these less sloped areas would probably be covered by rubber membrane roofing. One thing most people don't think about is that a flat seamed tin roof, properly installed and taken care of, can last 100 years. A rubber membrane roof won't last a third of that time. -
Mansard roof with flat eaves. 3 roof pitches per side?
Larry_Sweeney replied to Hyrule's topic in General Q & A
Monty..........I would design it just like you would build it. The pitch on the overhang area should be no less than 1.5/12 and 2 to 2.5 even better. It depends on where you locate the gutter and how deep you make your overhang. The material for roofing this overhang should be either flat seamed tin or copper. The use of any other material and I'm sure you with run into water problems in short order. Before doing a project like this, do your "homework". If at all possible study some actual Mansard roofs up close. If that isn't possible, you should be able to find info on the internet. What area of the country do you live in? Snow load & ice damming could be a factor you should think about also. -
Mansard roof with flat eaves. 3 roof pitches per side?
Larry_Sweeney replied to Hyrule's topic in General Q & A
Monty............Building a basic Mansard roof style in CA is fairly easy, using three roof planes, especially with the roof improvements CA has added with the last couple of versions. The complexity comes in when you start adding all the molding details that are usually associated with this type of style. One thing to remember is that the overhang does not have a flat pitch. Almost 100% of the time this overhang had a "built-in" gutter and the overhang was pitched accordingly to pitch the water to the gutter. I've seen not only a low pitch coming off the steep pitched roof to the gutter, but also a slight pitch from the outside edge of the of the cornice back toward the gutter. This all can be shown correctly in CA, but is quite time consuming to get everything correct. It's much easier to show a well drawn out cad detail of this and just get it "close" in the 3D model. As for myself, being and experience user showing a lot of historical detail on my projects, I would consider it a challenge. If you are a fairly new user, well-- good luck. -
This is my thought also. What will be next and how soon.-------------Only half charge for tech support for SSA members! We just got a increase in our SSA. CA..........you're treading on very thin ice with this approach.
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Deleting Certain Annosets/layersets?
Larry_Sweeney replied to Larry_Sweeney's topic in General Q & A
Never mind. Of couse I found the solution. I was caught up in a "brain fart"----or was it not enough coffee. It was once "somewhere" said------stupid is stupid does! -
I recently downloaded X8 beta and loaded my annosets and layersets from X7. After doing so I decided to "revamp" my annosets and layersets setup. I have way to many. Is there a way to delete certain annosets and layersets? I have no plans in X8 at this point (if that's an issue). If this isn't possible to do what is my options? ----- unistall and start over? I've done searches on this and so far I have not found anything on the subject. As most of you know, searches can be real finicky at times if they aren't worded correctly. As always, all advice is greatly appreciated.
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Thanks to all for your suggestions. After many attemps trying to bring my Bonus & Manufacturer Libraries from X7 to X8 with different suggestions I finally got things moved. The first thing I tried was using the library download manager, but I was having problems right from the start. I'm starting to think my problems are with my computer. Three times in the last two weeks my computer has flashed a blue screen for about a second with comments on it and then restarts. After it restarts I open it in safe mode and then shut it down and restart it. I don't get a chance to read what's on the "blue screen" before it shuts down because it happens so fast, so I don't know what's going on. I'm about as "computer savy" as a newborn pup trying to walk. I guess I'm going to have to call my "IT person". My main system is over 4 yrs. old and it might be trying to tell me something.
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I have a plan open in X8 and I've tried to download different libraries from CA's 3D Library and everytime the download is completed X7 opens and I get this warning . This is even though X8 is already open. Any suggestions?