SHCanada2

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Everything posted by SHCanada2

  1. attached is video showing how redrawing the wall fixes it 13.11.2022_10.25.50_REC.mp4
  2. attached . it is a test plan Untitled 1.plan
  3. that is how i have it and i do not get the extra rooms it is set to frame through which i think is correct based on the article i'm beginning to think this little -- is normal, just never see it because the layers are on
  4. if I do not draw walls clockwise, when I modify existing walls(trying to create a cubby hole) I get the siding on backwards (not on the interior wall, but actually backwards on the outside of the wall) . It can be seen by removing the drywall from the wall. CA suggests to draw clockwise, but also indicate that the wall will be reversed if you do not (which can be corrected with the reverse layers) Reversing Wall Layers (chiefarchitect.com) The odd thing is if I put in a pony wall the bottom of the wall is correct, but the top is not ; pony wall, both the top and bottom siding 6: if i remove the drywall and osb from the wall I can see with a camera that the siding is on the exterior of the wall, just backwards. Is this normal? is there a way to fix it (other than redrawing the wall clockwise). The reverse layers doesnt work because the siding is not on the inside of the wall, you can see when zooming in it is actually on the correct side: 12.11.2022_21.17.41_REC.mp4
  5. thanks, just discovered what the wall problem is, i will create a new post. it seems interesting.
  6. I believe that is what I have. If I turn on the layers, it looks like: and my wall definition is the irony is the whole reason I started looking is because I was getting this: and I was trying to make sure the walls were all connected properly. they seem to line up top to bottom from foundation to second floor
  7. hmmm I'm pretty sure the point of making it furred is so I do not have the 2x4 wall next to the concrete wall and then CA making a tiny room. as I used to do it that way and then CA suggested it be furred My wall is concrete, air gap, 2x4. I've been doing it like this for a couple years after having micro room problem.. but I dont understand what you are suggesting..., concrete wall and then a 2x4 right beside it? is it no locate to avoid the micro room problem
  8. I'm sure I've seen this before just dont recall how to fix it or if i need to fix. these are furred walls. maybe it is just showing the intersection of the concrete wall? but if so you'd think it would have a vertical one too if i pull both walls past the corner (there are now 3 lines one vertical and two horizontal if I change to non furred walls I do not get the -- If I change back to furred its now different with the corner missing
  9. in you do a search of the forum you will find the details. It has been detailed many times
  10. no foundation or slab? I think...you have glass walls where you should have normal walls and windows?
  11. This is what I do, my template layout has layout boxes for elevations (my template plan has them on the plan), layout boxes for kitchen(my template plan has them on the plan, 4 directions) , layout boxes for details, and layout boxes for basement and main floor. The you can use the tools->reference files to change for a new plan
  12. We do steel pilings like that up here, except they just pound them down, then cut them off. Never seen them done by drilling the hole, putting in the wood timber and then backfilling. I mean we do fences posts like that up here and then fill the hole with concrete. ...interesting, so the lateral support is the ground then. makes sense, surprised it is just backfill and not concrete backfill, but maybe whatever is being backfilled is easily packed. I think this is the same way they do telephone poles up here, just backfill
  13. I did this with the bosch measure on app and a tablet, and it worked pretty good, because I walked around with it. and you tap to enter a window and then enter W, L, height off floor, distance to wall corner. it also locked the walls once you had a measurement so it was pretty easy to see that the measurement took the BT reading. But now (if I can) I go and take a few measurements *usually a room), put in CA in the laptop sitting in the middle of the house, go back, get some more, etc. Don;t get me wrong, it gets me excercise, but a bit of a PIA. I do this rather than draw it all out because, well i like to see how it comes together in case something does not make sense. So i thought maybe a surface pro and CA would be the ticket, but given CA does not lock the walls, that is probably a large limitation, as you would not know what you measured vs what you did not. But i wanted to know if someone tried and how it worked the above link shows it working with regular walls and looks to show an outside dim being measured
  14. i just noticed this: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01846/using-a-leica-disto-device-with-chief-architect-software.html seems to take the BT from disto and put it into the dim box has anyone tried it? is it efficient?
  15. i'd post mine, but I'd go deaf hearing all the laughter
  16. Bosch has a similar app (Maeasure on its called) for free that works with their bluetooth laser. I used to use the bosch app, but then went to just drawing onsite on my laptop in CA, and taking some additional measurements by hand
  17. i have the same for about a second or 2
  18. I looked at hover but did not really see the value, given its accuracy. I perceive it as more of a exterior material estimating platform Are you using it just to get the outside dimensions? It seems like a bit of a price to pay for only those dimensions. and I assume where there are trees and bushes manual dimensions still need to be taken?
  19. There are other posts on this topic as well. I looked at magicplan and others, but noticed when they stich things together, they start making the walls thicker and thinner or the room narrower or wider to try and make the outside correct. I'd rather me try and find out why something is wrong, rather than the algorithm assuming is is the middle room that need to be narrower, there is always a reason and from what I have observed, it is never what the algorithm determines is best for you.
  20. you also look to have a hip roof, while the picture has a gable
  21. i've found that the most efficient if you can do it is to: 1. predraw the exterior of the house in CA using a survey and google maps to see the roof structure, elevation of house above grade (count the front steps). draw in windows and doors you can see 2. print these out, 2 copies 3. if possible, while on site draw everything directly in CA, but use the print outs and the bosch laser to go around and get dimensions, and to draw interior walls on the paper to go with the measurements. take pictures of critical maeasurements like furnace clearances, plumbing rough ins ets 4. sanity check once drawn in CA 5. Take elevation measurements outside and write them on printed out elevations 6. go back to office and draw correct elevations with terrain
  22. I've never heard it called a beam, but i'm not a truss guy, but it is a singular member in the sample i checked, and for this case it is 2x6 C-1,C7, are single members
  23. soooo, was there a cause to this? was it the porch balcony issue, or something else? I dont see anything else in Rob's list which would seem to be a contributor of the problem
  24. or use the Tools-Layout-Referenced Plan files when on layout
  25. this is a good point, but they already must do that today, so it must already be part of their workflow. But then again why bother putting the graphic macro assignment on the CAD detail? One could just put it off to the side of the floor view, as small as practical which i think you pointed out earlier. The floor view would be seen every time, and the global macros populated without having to flip to the CAD detail. I think this would only be the case if the filenames and paths were the same for two files, and if that was the case then they would have larger issues if they are sharing two files with the same name/path.