GeneDavis

Change the sun angle to minimize it, if shadows is a must for you. I only shadow the front elevation. The white CAD mask with fat line diagonal fill thing's been here since the stone age.

Don't need no cricket. No, suh! Just break the shed roof eave edge right above the gable roof edge below, and drag the top ("ridge") corner straight over to the valley. BTW, that arrangement is kind of a mess. Is this an addition, a remodel?

You can do a curved roof section (I hate to call it a "plane,") but a not-curved one is a plain plane. Planar means plane. It can pitch any way you want, but you cannot "warp" a roof section in Chief. When doing crickets, use the roof tool to create a new small plane ON TOP of the roof where you need the cricket. Work in 3D and open the new little plane you drew to get its baseline elevation. Do this where needed to determine the cricket's elevation numbers, baseline and ridge, or in cricket-speak, low point and high point. Maybe someone can link to a tutorial video doing crickets.

As can be seen in both Eric and Chopsaw's images, the gable width has to equal the depth of the main roof for this (or any) cross-gabled roof if pitches are all to match. Now, if you want a cross gable that's less width than that, your valleys will be "irregular," and framers use a vulgar term for this, but the pitches will need to be calculated. Your framed image looks like you may want to go this way. As an example, I modeled a shape in 3D using my go-to Sketchup app, doing a 28' deep house with a 24' width cross gable. Same 16-7 as yours for the gambrel pitches. For the valleys to be linear when seen in plan view, the pitches for the cross need to be 16-1/2" and 8-3/16".

The eyedropper was not active (i.e., cursor was crosshairs not eyedropper) when I did the screencap.

I asked because I went to the Chief site and looked at products, and all I saw offered was Chief Premier and Chief Interiors. I've since gone to the Home Designer site (never knew there was another site for this) and am now aware of Home Designer and Home Designer Pro. Are there still more products beyond these?

What is Chief Pro Version? This is the forum for users of Chief Architect Premier, the current version of which is X13.

But I never got it to pick as if black. It failed to pick anything. And it is not plan-specific, this behavior. I had multiple plans active, the behavior was same no matter which one was open for view.

Nope. It's as if the dropper is INACTIVE. Edit: Closed X13, reopened, and the problem is solved. Sorry for the bandwidth. Thanks for looking.

I want a new color and go, Library>User Library> right click NEW> dropdown choose MATERIAL, get the panel, enter my new material name, then go to bottom L of panel, click on the eyedropper, and when moving it across anything, do NOT see any values in color panel. The eyedropper LOOKS active, in that my cursor changes from crosshairs to eyedropper, but it is not getting input from anything on the screen. Is it my computer?

Find every instance of a cabinet schedule in your plan. I always put a schedule, any schedule, in its own CAD detail, which I believe is best practice. Your mileage may vary. But I digressed. Find every cab schedule, and delete them or it. Then create a CAD detail and title it "Cabinet Schedule." Create (open) a new cabinet schedule. Report the results here.

I had same, two identical cabinets side by side in an island, one would not display label. I did one in CAD to match the other, brought it forward to display, and moved on. Never occurred in previous versions.

Kind of related to another recent post about floors over floors, no? When you fiddle with floors and room heights, you gotta go top to bottom.

Doesn't seem buggy to me. All rooms in Chief have some kind of floor, even open below rooms. And we know how a floor above can affect room heights of floors below, don't we? A cantilevered room or part of a room with part of its cantilevered area above a room below (as different from no room below) is going to behave in an unexpected way. We control that with the invisible walls.

If you want precision, i.e., 3 per tread and all spaced evenly, the only way to control it is with solids. You can do it with the framing, but you'll probably need to edit the framing to get that precision. Solids go quickly, and you can use the move-edit tool to go really fast, using pitch and run as the move. There's probably a way to use a distribution path if you are going the whole way with Chief's capabilities.

I am looking for an online color pick tool that generates these, and have not found one yet that simplifies it into these three.

Maybe you ought to go and repost this in Seeking Services.

That's why I said start a new file, draw a box of four walls, post it right here. No need to zip. (Close after save.)

Same new file template every time? Go NEW, draw 4 walls, save it as NO PLAN FILES, and post here.

And how does one get those numbers? This one is a color offered by a millwork company.

I am about to do some renders for clients wanting specific colors not available in Chief's libraries, and am failing to get the color right. Following the directions, I right click on my owner library, drop down to new material, name the material, click the material panel, which opens up the color window, click and drag the eyedropper to my color which is in a window on the same screen, and lo and behold, some muddy version of the color is what gets generated. What's the secret? I have a red-green colorblindness, so some colors don't register with me the same as you, but this blue seems all wrong.

Nice on the fascia mount thing, Robert. How do you handle corners? I like to see corners done with newels not AT corners, but a newel about 6 inches FROM the corner in each direction, with the cables run through and then doing a 45 turn twice

I like my floorplan perimeter dimensions and the aligned foundation under, laid out in whole inches no fractions however possible. The framing sub and foundation builder expect this, and rightly so. Someone anal about detail might demand that sheathing face align to foundation, but the alignment gets blown by whatever cladding scheme is used. And particularly so when rainscreening happens. So why, exactly, is this done?

This was discussed recently and yes, the printer operator can make the wrong setting and get scale wrong. I only trust someone like blueprintprinting.com, and have had places like UPS Store, Staples, and other "general printing" businesses do it wrong. It's all about the 1:1.

What is the NKBA standard for these opening indicators? I show a single panel type and a two panel folding type here.