GeneDavis

Chief generates and reports quantity for ridge caps. There is no way in Chief to place or count ridge vent.

It's not that intuitive, but you can set up your file using a framing defaults and wall specs, plus material list to do the "buy list" reporting, and get pieced framing like what one does at build time. By that I mean mudsills, wall plates, and deck rims modeled and reported in the material list in your specified max lengths. If for example you have set your wall plate max at 16 feet, the count is going to give you, for a 17 foot wall, one 16 foot piece, and one one foot piece, and it is tallying the one foot piece with other shorties from elsewhere in the build, to cut from 16 foot pieces. What Chief does not do, but what a framer does, is cut the 16 footer back to the nearest stud or joist center, so the butt joint falls on a member. Chief will put the joint wherever 16/0 falls. As others have said here, there is no such way to piece rafters with a bearing line dialog, as there is for floors. There is no way to specify a max length for fascia or subfascia or ridge members, either. They will build at full length and report to the material list in lineal feet.

It is not clear what you want but if you want two rafters either butted at the bearing or lap-joined over, all you have to do is manually frame it.

Consider posting a suggestion to be able to nest polylines and create holes so as to be able to make hollow moldings.

All that CAD work for naught! Bummer. Did you classify the hollows as holes?

Does Chief acknowledge the bug?

Look at your wall definition framing layer. One can choose 16 or 24. If you drew a wall with its framing done with a 24 center, that is what you will get. But why not 24? Most of the time in my area with a 15 degree F winter design temp, I cannot make my ResChecks unless I go to 24. And edit your signature in your profile to show that version of Chief Premier X or whatever you are using, plus what you run it on. It helps us all better sort out your problems.

You can benefit this discussion by completing your sig lines in your account profile, so we know whether you are working in Chief X or Y or whatever, and maybe what you run the software on. And then having done that, you can save and close the file and post it here. If it is too big to post, strip the goodies out of it, leaving just walls and roofs, and it should post just fine. Compress it if you need to. Here is what I get when I build a two story house, second floor with 36" ceiling height, and then roof it.

How'd you build the roof way up there?

Find the recent thread "Wall Framing with Scissors Trusses" and read the whole thing. Then re-read it. Take notes about the settings and the moves. Then come back and tell us what you learned.

Do new thread

Determine what that weird angle is, copy its value, then open Default Settings > Plan and check Additional Angles, then paste in your angle. Your section view camera drag can now snap to your angle, no matter how "weird." It ain't weird, it's your lot angle.

CAD detail from view is produced at 1:1 scale, just like the 3D model. It is sent to layout at your specified scale just as for plan views, elevations and sections, CAD details, and schedules. Consider some one on one training for producing con docs, or watch training videos.

When all is final, no more edits, no more changes, CAD detail from view is the best method. But then with everything final and ready for ink, you won't be getting auto updates to live views, either. Best practice for you might be to wait until everything's settled before beginning the layout work.

Is it a requirement to see them open in elevation view or in plan view or in 3D? Because closed they look like a standard cabinet. And a callout can describe what is needed for the cab build.

Here is the image I forgot to attach to the post above. Right side follows procedure, left side not. This, before I have built trusses.

OK, after a nice conversation with a Chief tech, and writing and then deleting a suggestion for change, I have arrived at the correct way to do scissors trusses and wall framing, when you want to control your wall heights. Build with room heights as you want, delete all your flat ceilings as you regularly do when doing scissor trusses for vaulted ceilings, and draw the ceiling planes with their bottom edges to OUTSIDE of framing. Build roof planes and edit as needed to get the roof height where you want for the desired truss envelopes. Here is a key step. Open all the walls upon which trusses bear, and in the structure page, check the radio button for Platform Intersections>Ceiling Platform to be Stop at Ceiling Above. In the section view attached, the wall on the right has its ceiling plane drawn over, and is specified this way. The wall on left has its ceiling plane drawn to inside of framing, and the platform intersection is specified as Automatic. You created the ceiling above at your desired elevation when you placed its outboard (bottom) edge at outside of framing. This stops the wall at that height and the wall will frame with desired plate height. The walls can then be framed before truss generation, or after.

I see what happens now. I never use that TrussesNoBirdsmouth option, but it is clear that when it is checked, it prevents the walls from framing properly. Gonna turn in a ticket to Chief.

Here's my plan. Where's yours? Test truss.plan

Sequence: Draw walls to make "room". A four wall house. Leave room height at whatever default you have established up front, but know it. Mine is 109.125. Build the roof above the house, elevated up to have a 1' heel height for the trusses, and a pitch twice what you want for your vaulted ceiling below. I did a 10 pitch for a 5 pitch ceiling. Edit the "room" AKA house to NOT have a flat ceiling above. Draw the ceiling planes, setting their bottom elevation ('fascia') at room height, in my case 109.125. One of my pics shows my ceiling plane limits at the drywall layer of walls. Now draw trusses. Then, after trusses are edited however necessary to look right to you (Chief needs work for energy heels), frame the walls. Michael's trick of doing 1" widths for all elements (chords, webs, etc.) to get the truss to look right at the heel, then reset all back to 3.5 seems to work nicely. But the energy heel is not the issue here. What are you doing differently?

Read my earlier. You gotta build the trusses to get the walls to frame true.

Do a simple 4 wall plan. Do a roof so its baseline is 12 inches above room height, make the roof a 10 pitch. Do 5-pitch ceiling planes under, lower end at your ceiling height. Autoframe the walls. Since you have not generated trusses yet, those wall heights ("plate heights") are not what you want for the roof structure with trusses. Draw the trusses. If you have wall autoframing on, those side walls under the trusses will properly frame. Add windows to the walls, and they will autoframe, again with top of wall right for truss bearing. What is the issue?

Room heights rule.

What's the problem? I want to frame efficiently with regards to available materials, so I am going with precut stud wall heights that are right for the sheetrock modules. That's 8, 9, and 10 feet plus the 1.25". So there is my room height. And that is where walls will frame to, every time. Reframe, and they frame up to those 97.125, 109.125, or 121.125 tops. So, room heights. Set them and forget them. The heel height for the trusses is either determined by energy, meaning something like a 12" rise, or by structural engineering, meaning what minimum it's gotta be to handle load with span. I'm always working where the ground snow load is about 100 psf so I have a truss engineer on speed dial for scissors in that second category. So there you go. Your room height for your ceiling plane base, and your heel height for the baseline height of the roof above.

We use the concrete-filled ones you cut to the height you need. They come with a base plate that anchors to the slab, and we use the Simpson LCC caps. If a builder told me I had a lally upside down in a 3D render, I'd say my bad, that render will never make it to the con docs, it was for illustration only, and leave it as-is. The lallys, and their hardware, are annotated with callouts on the structural floor plans.