GeneDavis

It only works as shown when the ridge is structural. Absent that, there must be collar ties.

I tried framing the wall and got nothing, this, after changing the wall type by copying the default exterior wall and changing its def to read "no sheetrock in" and then framing. I'm doing it wrong and will try some more.

Seems like a lot of work. You can open a new blank file, place a Rev a Shelf symbol in it, and export the file in .collada format, then import it into Sketchup to materialize to your hearts content, then import the SU as the symbol you want. You gotta have SU to do this, though.

I like the drawerbox with tray dividers for storage. Using Sketchup, I made one that is right-sized for an 18" width frameless base cabinet. Here it is. Import it as millwork and you can get the result shown in the pic. 1/2" side clearance, made with 5/8 sides and the dividers are 1/4" with a top scoop CNC cut. Edit: Here is a pic of the way I've been doing tray division. We do cabs using an app in which we "build" them in 3D and the file output drives the CNC machine that cuts and labels all the component parts. The dividers are cut from 1/4" baltic birch ply and fit to the carcase parts with blind tenons. It is less expensive a build than doing it as a d'box, but with the d'box you get the convenience of pulling the set out for somewhat easier access. Save the cost of a d'box, and a pair of hinges is less than a pair of Tandem Blumotion slides. Tray divider drawer 18.skp

It only works as shown when the ridge is structural. Absent that, there must be rafter ties.

Look carefully at the shingled texture in Michael's images, and compare to my triangular poly surfaces.

/@buzzsaw204 your image shows a roof shape that has a common fascia height, as it descends in pitch from 8/12 to 4/12. A roof thus built has twisted surfaces, not planar, and I do not believe Chief can model this for you unless you segment the roof. I used Sketchup and drew a 24 x 24 footprint with warped roofs to model what you show in your image. I triangulated each 24" rafter bay to be able to get the app to show surfaces. One of the images clearly shows the warp or twist in the roof. Chief can do this if you model each triangular plane and place them all, but it is tedious. It is impossible to texture to get a seamless shingled look, because the baselines all differ as you move along the line of the fascia edges.

Ryan's way is faster than mine, so proceed, but remember to set floor joists as lumber, and I think you will still have to manually draw that plate on which the rafters bear. Change the wall type for the second floor to not have an inside layer of sheetrock. Change the specs for the second floor "room" (which is the actual attic) to not have a base molding. Draw that plate using General Framing. Doing it the way I first suggested might be almost as fast, because you don't have to draw a second floor, mess with wall specs to delete the sheetrock in the "attic," or delete the base molding in the "attic." All you have to do is raise the roof and draw the edge framing, plus edit the ceiling joists.

Manually raise the roof, manually draw in the framing, edit to your satisfaction, take a live section view. Chief won't autoframe those two members.

Look through the thread here titled "How to create life-like grass."

You want an applied end? A stile and rail panel with flat or raised panels?

Need to see the room below. The foundation. I'm in this thread with phone only . . . No Chief.

You didn't show a pic of the garage room d'box.

Take a screenshot of your main floor plan with the garage highlighted. Open the garage room spec dialog. Take a second screen shot of the d'box. Post both pics here. Alternatively: The building looks uncomplicated. Make a copy of the plan, strip it of everything except walls, roofs, doors, and windows. No cabinets, no furnishings, no furniture, nothing that can jack up the poly count. You should be able to get it to a size for zipping and attaching the compressed file here. Remind us to open it using X14.

The truss envelope can be edited in section view. In truss detail view, you can edit the envelopes and chords. In my experience the only edit that sticks when copying a truss is an envelope edit that's been locked.

Didn't look at the file, but were your edits to the envelope or to the chords?

Drag its edge way in there. Don't be shy. You're the boss. Then call the engineer and tell her what you did.

Here is a perfect example of cabinets that would make use of such a feature when doing the build. The same pull is used in the center panels of 5 piece drawerfronts as is used in the slab drawerfronts of the top drawers. Then above, the pulls are used on doors, on the stiles of the doors. One would use the feature when building default bases, only, as the default position for the pulls is out at the "flush" location and the feature is only needed to sink them where needed.

That one ought to become a suggestion for a future release, Larry. Write it up as a request, and show in the request how the setting needs to be able to work at the opening level of a cabinet, not just "globally" for one cabinet. This, to be able to handle those rare cases like what you show in your image, in which the top drawerfront is a slab and those below it are 5-piece stile and rail with recessed panel. You want the pull at zero for the flush slabs and at minus whatever for your paneled drawerfronts.

We've really no idea what you're talking about. Give us the the problem you have, and an attached plan file demonstrating it. in a new thread please. This one is someone else's.

3D Warehouse has a beauty.

Has a suggestion been made for Chief to have roofing o'hang and drip edge flash modeled into roofs based on inputs in the spec dialog? Both are features of every roof I do, and it would be nice not having to add using CAD in section views.

Or material regions. One for the arc-segment window top (it's recessed) and one for the brick lintel (proud). Good luck texturing the lintel so it looks like the photo. That might require a material region for each brick. Must it render with photorealism to match the pic? I'd charge by the minute if my client made me do it. A good situation for clay rendering.

Paint can?

You have an interesting mix of box types along the vanity run. The drawer stacks are frameless, while the sink bases are faceframed with only a 3/8" overlap for doors and drawerfronts. Is this the look you want? Whoever quotes the cabinets will sure want to know. I never place a cabinet adjacent a wall (or adjacent a deeper cabinet) without doing an extended stile (if faceframed) or a filler (when frameless) to give a little extra clearance for doors and drawerfronts when opened. You might want to consider that here.