dshall

How did you define your ceiling? Did you do it the way everyone else is doing it?

Yes.

I am not sure who you are responding to, if it was me, your statement is incorrect, see picture of how I defined the ceiling. I did not thicken the drywall.

That is not so. It will frame auto..... however I will admit it is difficult to control the direction of the dropped ceiling joists. See picture, the orange ceiling joists is part of the CEILING FINISH and has framed auto. The ceiling joists of the roof has also framed auto. I did no manual framing, what you see is all auto. The orange joists represent a dropped soffit in the hallway.

I think Glenn recommends using the edit area tool and reflecting about a line. I think Glenn would agree with Tommy that using the reverse plan tool is not the way to go.

Via the ceiling finish option. Note that the ceiling finish can be any thickness you want it to be.

Karel's gazebo vids PART 1 https://www.dropbox.com/s/4mh5rlayp2ztxz7/KAREL VID 1.mp4?dl=0 PART 2 https://www.dropbox.com/s/ifs64ck19f3wsh6/KAREL PART 2.mp4?dl=0

Yes, we are doing it for residential.

Here is a link to the long and boring video when it is done cooking... https://youtu.be/8BPwjPY1DOk.....

I will post the long and boring video if I have time. Bottom line is you wanted to put the terrain on level zero instead of level 1. Here are the steps. -save original plan as plan 2, that is your new final plan, delete the terrain on plan 2. -go to plan 1, copy terrain, go to plan 2 and paste in place. Convert that pline to a terrain and set the correct elevation.... I think it was 2667" or something like that -go back to plan 2, lock all layers, unlock the TERRAIN ELEVATION LAYER, copy that info, go back to plan 2 and copy that info in place.... I would bet you now have the terrain on level zero. Not the way I would of done it, but it is what you want and it should work for you.

It does not matter if it is counter intuitive, it's the way the program works, listen to Perry, that is what the ref sets are for. If you post your plan, if I have time, I might do a video to explain the reasoning behind the madness...... I am on a roll today doing vids......

Perfect, you are correct, you know nothing.... yet....... there are many reasons to keep the terrain on level 1...... but if I were to guess why you cannot see the roads and landscaping, I would guess you are using a floor camera and not a full camera..... and, you do not have SHOW LOWER FLOOR IN FLOOR OVERVIEWS checked........ bottom line, use the FULL CAMERA and not the FLOOR CAMERA.... I hope that helps.... you have a long way to go, but stick with it....

Holy Kamoly, by accident, you put the terrain on the correct level. Leave the terrain on level 1....... if you want to show anything that is on level 1 on level zero of your plans, use ref sets. DO NOT PUT TERRAIN ON LEVEL ZERO.

If I am not mistaken, FLW apprenticed with Louis B. Sullivan who did a lot of Chicago's multi story metal buildings after the great fire.

I was able to open a new plan, I put in base cab, and then put in upper cab, I then did a back clip cross section and moved base cab up and it bumped into upper cab, I then tried to move upper cab down to lower cab and it bumped. My cabinets bump when I am moving in vertical direction. It works for me. X9

Correct, the MULTIPLE MULTIPLE REFERENCE LAYER SETS. The ability to reference many floors. Just the other day someone was asking for STRUCTURAL GRID LINES, the MMRLS would give us this ability. You are correct, a no brainer in may book. BTW, there are many users who use the MRLS..... I am sure you are aware that before X3, we did not have this ability. I can not image working without it. The MMRLS is the MRLS on steroids. Before X3 we had the RLS.... the ability to use one ONLY ONE reference layer set per plan.

Of course if we had an MMRLS this would be a no-brainer., easy peasey.

Brotha P. it was you and me working together, I thank you for your help.

Unless someone has gone through it, they will not get it.

lol

I think Larry is exaggerating , it is only 17 people who are constantly changing their minds and requirements.

My apologies, the plans work well as they are.

a comment..... Joey does a great looking set of plans.... I have always admired his set of plans, they are so clean looking and not cluttered compared to mine.... however based on my experience, he would never be able to pull a permit in California with them. Just a few examples.... footing widths are not specified and there are no shear transfer details, window headers are not spec'd and hip sizes are not called out and there are not king posts under ridge beams spec'd out. Location of vertical steel in retaining walls is not spec'd...... plate heights in sections are not called out and there are only 2 sections , for a house this size and complex, it seems more than 2 sections will be needed. I suppose the point of the post is, you need to understand what the permitting jurisdiction will require. Simply copying someone's method will not always guarantee a permit. I began drawing plans in Houston back in the '70's and Joey's plans would be considered very nice and adequate........ 40 years later in California..... much more info is required . Energy calcs, structural calcs, truss calcs, BMP plans, Brush Management plans, coverage calcs, FAR calcs, impervious area calcs and keeping the wife happy calcs not to mention plans to assure your kids success in life calcs. Anybody in California with little to no experience who thinks they can provide a set of plans , will be in for a big surprise.

I assume you can select the roof planes you want to change and then change the attributes for all roof planes at one time via the dbx.

Yep, I thought so, this would be a good request for the suggestions forum. I am specifically thinking of when I manually build pitched roof planes and then I need to set up the defaults for a shallow pitched cricket and then I want to switch back to the conventional roof pitched roof plane. Not a must need, but would be nice to have.