dshall

I got the PM, you think it is broken. I sent in a bug report.

Hey Michael, very good vid, I think there were some tips you pointed out that were good...... but..... I tried to replicate on my MAC....... I think the MAC works differently. I will post a vid in a second..... skip the first 2.36 hours and go to the last 1.5 minutes.... you will see that I eliminate all framing, I have 1 joist direction in plan and I build ONLY THE CEILING FRAMING, yet the ceiling framing does not obey the arrow. It might be a MAC thing. I must go to an appointment now. If you follow my utube vids, the vid might pop up in about 5 minutes.... remember, the last minute is all you need to see to understand this might be a MAC issue. BTW, you framing was there when I opened plan.... I may of deleted it at some point.

I wonder what I did wrong. Can you do a real real real quick vid showing how you changed CEILING JOIST DIRECTION. Thanks

Michael, if you wouldn't mind doing a quick vid showing how you would open your attached plan and change the direction of the ceiling joists. I could not open your plan and rotate the ceiling joists 37 degrees. How would you do it?

Michael always seems to prove me wrong, so I anticipate he is going to rip me up for this post. I was not able to control the CJ & FJ separately, I saw Glenn do it, I saw the results from Michael, but I was not able to do it. I reposted Michael's plan, with my changes, but I was not able to change the ceiling joist direction. 1- michael built his dropped ceiling wrong, but it should not of effected the framing 2- I was not able to get my ceiling framing going in a different direction like Glenn 3- I saw Glenn do it, and it worked for him, but I was not able to achieve his results following his instructions..... I must of missed something 4- Glenn did his framing in 2 stages, floor joists first and then ceiling joists (or vice versa), I like to have auto framing on all the time because things change, so I would prefer to have a joist direction arrow for the floor joists and one for the ceiling joists, I am sure I requested this years ago, Multi-directional framing by dsh.plan vid below

Ditto. Maybe we are doing something wrong. It does not work for me at all too.

Nice job guys, thanks. I thought I had played with this years ago and it didn't work too well.

Michael, if this was so, it is good news. I think what you are implying is that you can specify the floor joist direction independent of ceiling joist direction. If that is what you are saying, can you show a pic of the ceiling joist framed in northwest direction and the floor joist in northeast direction. IOW, the CJ are perpendicular to FJ, and they are at 45 degree angle to the walls. if you are able to do that, did you use two joist direction arrows and how did you define one arrow as controlling CJ direction and how did you define the other arrow as defining direction of FJ direction.

Well, I am not sure if that is what I am doing or what Perry is doing or what Jerry is doing or what Jon is doing. I think we are all adding the framing to the ceiling finish and not to the ceiling structure and not to the floor assembly. I do not think anybody is creating a floor above the room.... there is already a floor at the second floor.

actually to be clearer, you might want to change the ceiling finish, I am not sure if you can change the ceiling surface.

How did you define your ceiling? Did you do it the way everyone else is doing it?

Yes.

I am not sure who you are responding to, if it was me, your statement is incorrect, see picture of how I defined the ceiling. I did not thicken the drywall.

That is not so. It will frame auto..... however I will admit it is difficult to control the direction of the dropped ceiling joists. See picture, the orange ceiling joists is part of the CEILING FINISH and has framed auto. The ceiling joists of the roof has also framed auto. I did no manual framing, what you see is all auto. The orange joists represent a dropped soffit in the hallway.

I think Glenn recommends using the edit area tool and reflecting about a line. I think Glenn would agree with Tommy that using the reverse plan tool is not the way to go.

Via the ceiling finish option. Note that the ceiling finish can be any thickness you want it to be.

Karel's gazebo vids PART 1 https://www.dropbox.com/s/4mh5rlayp2ztxz7/KAREL VID 1.mp4?dl=0 PART 2 https://www.dropbox.com/s/ifs64ck19f3wsh6/KAREL PART 2.mp4?dl=0

Yes, we are doing it for residential.

Here is a link to the long and boring video when it is done cooking... https://youtu.be/8BPwjPY1DOk.....

I will post the long and boring video if I have time. Bottom line is you wanted to put the terrain on level zero instead of level 1. Here are the steps. -save original plan as plan 2, that is your new final plan, delete the terrain on plan 2. -go to plan 1, copy terrain, go to plan 2 and paste in place. Convert that pline to a terrain and set the correct elevation.... I think it was 2667" or something like that -go back to plan 2, lock all layers, unlock the TERRAIN ELEVATION LAYER, copy that info, go back to plan 2 and copy that info in place.... I would bet you now have the terrain on level zero. Not the way I would of done it, but it is what you want and it should work for you.

It does not matter if it is counter intuitive, it's the way the program works, listen to Perry, that is what the ref sets are for. If you post your plan, if I have time, I might do a video to explain the reasoning behind the madness...... I am on a roll today doing vids......

Perfect, you are correct, you know nothing.... yet....... there are many reasons to keep the terrain on level 1...... but if I were to guess why you cannot see the roads and landscaping, I would guess you are using a floor camera and not a full camera..... and, you do not have SHOW LOWER FLOOR IN FLOOR OVERVIEWS checked........ bottom line, use the FULL CAMERA and not the FLOOR CAMERA.... I hope that helps.... you have a long way to go, but stick with it....

Holy Kamoly, by accident, you put the terrain on the correct level. Leave the terrain on level 1....... if you want to show anything that is on level 1 on level zero of your plans, use ref sets. DO NOT PUT TERRAIN ON LEVEL ZERO.

If I am not mistaken, FLW apprenticed with Louis B. Sullivan who did a lot of Chicago's multi story metal buildings after the great fire.

I was able to open a new plan, I put in base cab, and then put in upper cab, I then did a back clip cross section and moved base cab up and it bumped into upper cab, I then tried to move upper cab down to lower cab and it bumped. My cabinets bump when I am moving in vertical direction. It works for me. X9