dshall

I love the new one too.

So I was downloading PUBLIC BETA from my digital locker and I noticed this.... I think it has been there since 2001. It looks like it it a download of a CERTIFIED USER certificate. Is that so?

Nice job E

Not fair, the workshop was for beta users. Solver has the basic answer, you also probably do not have framing on,

this was covered in our last workshop, The workshop video has been posted by Chopsaw.

I have a feeling you did not try your solution. If you asked me, this plan is a bit of a mess, yet interesting. 1. He adjusted many of his wall heights manually, not a good idea unless you know what you are doing 2. the wall is not there because his stairs are on top of wall 3. I think he is missing a staircase from the garage to the next level up....... This is a relatively complicated model.

I guess I didn't know what I was talking about, my ceiling does hang off the wall. So my question is, why is Jerry's ceiling sitting on wall and not hanging from wall?

Interesting, I had not thought of this...... it might make sense to use this method if you wanted the ceiling TO SIT ON THE WALL and not hang off the wall....... I think....... suppose you selected the exterior wall and defined it as going through ceiling, would the ceiling now hang off the exterior wall?

Framing turned off.

this is how you use the top floor to get a finish at the overhang. Notice the z fighting? framing and finish? turn off the framing and it should look good.

That is the point of the extra floor. Attics will never have a room. So create the extra floor. if left office so I can’t look at your model

yes, the mysterious attic level.... I always have one extra floor..... if I have a two story house, I really have at least 3 levels...... give it a try, always have an extra level, it will come in handy.

again, you should post the plan, but if I had to guess, I would of really turned that attic level into a REAL FLOOR WITH ROOMS, and then the cantilevered portion would have a finish defined by you. If you look at the underside you should see a finish material, but it will have no thickness, because of this if you have the framing turned on I bet you will see z fighting between the framing and the soffit material .... so the solution would be to turn off framing. Of course you can always add a psolid under the cantilever to serve as the finish.

say one curse word , Go up to the ATTIC LEVEL and delete that wall........ and all will be well.

I have seen that. I usually rebuild the wall, hit F12, say a few curse words and all is well. If you post the plan somebody will fix it for you and find out the cause.

I think roof planes is the best solution especially if the floor slopes on 4 sides to the center, (inverted hip roof).

Nice!

no

Nuts, I thought 13 was the first good one.....

Justin, I gave it the old college try, I was coming close..... there are a few inconsistent angles along the street, I have an appointment in 6 minutes, so... do it like Perry says....... these are fun to do.... I think there is enough information, it's just the angle at the street is a bit off.... good luck I was not sure if the street bearing is n 77 w or n75 25 w or s 77 30 16 e which is what you came up with. I also did not like the n 75 52 e into street... it did not jive with the p.l.

Justin, I gave it the old college try, I was coming close..... there are a few inconsistent angles along the street, I have an appointment in 6 minutes, so... do it like Perry says....... these are fun to do.... I think there is enough information, it's just the angle at the street is a bit off.... good luck

Post the site that you have and i am sure somebody will finish it up for you.

I think it is all there. You have 3 lines that you can plot. Then draw a line that connects the opening, put a radius on it and make sure it is TANGENT to the street p.l. It probably will not be perpendicular to the side p.l.

Yep, and plumbing.

uhhhh, yeah.