dshall

I remember that.... not sure what happened.

The biggest joke was the woman with the bar and outdoor eating.... they shut down her out door eating area. The next day a movie studio set up a 75 seat eating are in the same parking lot as hers to feed their movie crew. Such a joke. Lynn and I are committed to eating out as much as possible to support these restaurant owners. They are getting shafted. Such a *&*$^^&%* joke. Check out the video https://www.businessinsider.com/los-angeles-restaurant-owners-video-on-outdoor-dining-goes-viral-2020-12

I am feeling like chopped liver!

Steve, after changing the obscure box, you must retake the view.

uncheck it Steve, do not have it checked. My example is a vector view and I can see through the window.

CAn't you use a glass material and designate the glass as not obscure? There may be a downside but I can't think of it now.

Do not use invisible wall, use a door opening set to the ceiling height.

Here is the plan. Most of the time I can get it to work with the correct combination of bearing direction arrows and sometimes breaks in the bearing lines.... but it should not be that hard Joists going wonky 1.plan.zip

does this prove my case?.... just stupid!

Am I the only guy that has this problem. I have to stand on my left foot holding an umbrella as I monkey around trying to get the floor joists to go in the correct direction. Just a waste of time.

Do not use retaining walls, use terrain breaks, that will fix the wall dips

Perry, do you use 1/300 or 1/150?

Thanks Richard, that had occurred to me. Thank you very much. I will also confirm with the City.

Thanks guys for the input. We have all existing conditions so I am hoping the separation was not required through some kind of a loop hole. Not only do I need the separation, but I also need an STC Rating of 50 between the two dwellings. I think the floor will need to be the3/4" T&G subfloor, R-19 in floor cavity, 1/2" type x on resilient channels at the ceiling. (I would probably spec 5/8" type x and then as Alan alluded to 5/8" type 'x' at interior face of wall supporting the one hour floor/ceiling with 7/8" stucco at exterior face. Another key to this is identifying the "APPROVED" assembly number. The one below calls out for TJI joists..... Does anybody disagree with this?

My client has a two story house. The kitchen is on the second floor. Each level has its own entrance. I can easily close off the stairs and add a kitchen at lower lever to turn the lower level into a JUNIOR ADU. Main house on 2nd floor, JR ADU on first floor. The question is..... do I need the one hour fire separation between the two units and if so, any ideas on how to accomplish this?

Does anybody have a Trench Drain detail for BMP's/SWQMP. I live in California (the land of nuts). I have never needed to do this but apparently this plan reviewer thinks it would be a good idea if I cut into the existing concrete driveway and put one in. Thanks guys ,

Joey does a great job with his plans. However I have a different approach. A walkout basement is on level 1 which leaves level zero for any concrete slab footings. If I don't use level zero, so what. You only need to use level zero if you auto build foundation. I manually build all foundations, it is faster and easier for me. I do mostly remodels... too much trouble to keep the auto foundation rebuild valid.

I would leave as is. You do not have to use the foundation unless you auto build your foundation.

You might of hit on something. I have always had issues with my toolbars going nutty. Not all the time, but it happens. It had been maybe 6 months and then it has a happened 3 times in the last 3 weeks. I simply set it to factory settings and go back to work. One of the reasons I do not use customized toolbars.... except for putting the LAYER SET drop down in the tool bar.

Interesting, I wonder if that should work or not..... CA, do you have an opinion here?

post the plan and somebody will answer post haste

I am not convinced the SCREEN GRAB is the best method. I take a screen shot of both a MAC map and a GOOGLE MAPS map, and then put into layout and it is not super clear. lLately I have been PRINTING a PDF from the two map apps..... not sure if that is the best either. For some reason mine always appear muddled. When I see this on a PC, it looks much better. Sometimes the plan checkers complain and I need to overlay CAD on the screen shot. Point is I use the screen grab and the print to PDF and then import and neither system seems super good to me.

Yep, 721, thanks ,

This is an example of what they are looking for: https://law.resource.org/pub/us/code/bsc.ca.gov/sibr/org.gypsum.GA-600-09.pdf.

Thanks P., I have searched the internet and there is no clear answer but I have been doing this for longer than I want to admit. I remember I had to prove it once before and I don't even remember what I did. Here is one approved assembly but it too is not super clear. (per IBC Table 720.1(2),Item 15-1.3).