mtldesigns

Hi Glenn, Please see the video. I don't want the angles alignments on, just horizontal and vertical. I don't know if this is a setting I can turn off. Recording 2024-10-06 213554.mp4

I am looking for a way to turn off the annoying "angled" selecting lines when I am lining up anything with another. I don't think I ever used this to align with anything at an angle, ever. On a large, busy job.. those dang lines like to grab everything. I believe these came with 16, since I don't recall them on earlier versions. Is there a way to just have it set to do horizontal or vertical alignments? The Knowledge Base is really no help at all on this, at least that I could couldn't find..

We have to do that sometimes. Yep.. another reason to go that way. Most people here went east when they left, I have no idea why. We rode it out at the house, since we were not in a surge area and about 9 miles off the coast. Lots of wind, about 8" of rain, had to drain the pool twice, lost power for most of a day, but not a lick of damage. One potted plant was knocked over was it. Thanking God again.

I believe I would have done it the other way.. Make the 5.5" part of the roof layer, and then delete and structure. The metal joist are the structure IMO, and you won't be building that in the Chief world. This would have left your roof planes as is and moved your attic walls up. However, I am glad I could help and it worked out. Daphne, AL, I didn't realize how close you were. Great. Now I have another place to run to if another Helene comes up into the Big Bend area.

Perspective Framing Overview, under the camera pull down. Make sure to build your framing or you wont get much.

CONT. The double upping of those members looks to be your issue. Looking at your attachment, focus on the framing view of that gable. See how your top of wall frame doesn't go all the way to the underside of that purlin? It needs too. Since your not doing a roof structure per say, delete that 5.5" and your wall will continue up, and hoping fix the soffit issue. BTW, I always build these gable walls outside the joist and post. This way my wall goes all the way to the bottom of those roof members, AND now its just basically a curtain wall. This helps the framers too, since they don't have to cut around those metal joist. My $0.02.

Got to love these.. I've done a couple this year already, got another new client wanting a 40 x 80. The good thing, no load bearing walls, :-) So what's going on Rob? Why do you have 5 1/2" located twice? You have 5 1/2" fir framing under the surface tab and then another 5 1/2" under the structure, both in the roof layer dbx.

Smart man... I'm amazed you found these drawings. Def would be a cool thing to think through.

See if this gets you in the right direction. 1098474939_XYZFLOORPLANX16 mtl.plan

As a person who uses all 3 (Mostly AutoCad and CA), this is going to require some creative thinking no matter what you use. If the ceiling grid is the same, as in spacings, sizes, etc. I would probably create one section, block it, then array, def. will be trial and error. This being a triangle shaped will make it even more difficult too. A lot of subtractions as you get to the edges. Do you have an idea on the shape and spacing of that grid or is it all a guess? It will be a challenge, but things like this gets me excited.. a fresh cup (or pot) of coffee, some tunes, and just model away... Good luck, I hope you get an A

@Simpsonks I am trying to grasp what your describing here... You didn't use the paint brush did ya? Sometimes that messes things up too. In the Wall DBX go down to the "MATERIAL" tab, and see if the exterior and interior wall matches what you set in the wall types.

I think I forgot to mention the trussed and rafters were metal. But this is the same concept as you shown. I did..

Looking for guidance here on the subject at hand. I've done metal "stick" framed builds before, where I use R804 as my go-by. But in this case, I have a CMU exterior wall that I need to bring these truss and rafters too. Do you embed a plate on the top course, or bolt down a track to that top course (open end down) then proceed as normal.

Why do you want to union them? Once you do, it becomes harder to manipulate. If it's just because its a PITB to move around, just make it a block. Personally, unless its an actual one piece item, I don't union anything, but that's just me. I have the same mentality in AutoCAD too.

if your talking about SALA, I def agree... I have their link saved as a favorite.

This only seemed to work when the layer was also dashed lines, I don't know why. But, in retrospect, I don't want the 12" CMU wall dashed anyways, because I am using that by itself in other places and don't want the dashed. What I did, is first, set up it to show both, then I drew a dashed line over that 12" extension, then just had the top wall show to get what I attached. I have my section arrow AND dimensions right on it, so there should not be ANY confusion. I thought we did as well, that's I was looking for before I posted.

What's the best way to get the lower wall line shown on the plan view to be a dashed line?

Thanks V Your welcome Gene

See your other post.. I replied there

This is exactly what I do in these situations, but make the landings by creating a "deck" room. This way you get the wooden frame that looks like a deck and not a one that looks internal. Then follow up with individual stairs. You already know the math, so creating the deck rooms would line up with your riser spacing.

Man, I thought I did great holding the phone.. LOL. Yeah, I don't know what I was thinking. Chalk it up to helping the wife all day with her yard sale.. I hate yard sales BTW. I was hot a delusional..

You ever have such a thing happen? Pick one wall to move by updating a dimension, and an un-related wall moves? It wasn't operator error either, because I tried a couple of times. I could move with transform/replica command though.. Moving on, not a show stopper, just thought I'd ask you dedicated weekend working peeps.. 20240823_224353.mp4

never mind... looked at this for 30 minutes.. sent this OP then found it. I adjust the height is the 3D tab in it's z position.

Ok, this should be pretty simple and I swear I have done this before. The client has a hideous 1" thk. countertop, my default is 1.5". When I change the thickness to 1", the sink does NOT move up accordingly. Even when I select just the sink (tab) and just get the sink dbx, changing the elevation doesn't do anything. Am I looking right at it here on the specifications and just not seeing it?

heck ya! I'd sleep on that, with mosquito spray on of course.. I am just as amazed at the perfectly square grass you grew too.. what a cool dad.