mtldesigns

Thanks.. so you saw what I saw. I appreciate the input. The arrowed picture is perfect.

Starting off on a new 5k build. I will have the center main home, with two wings angled off on each end. I am no where close to being done, but every time I see this floor, it's driving my right eye crazy.. lol. Off the main entrance, the flooring is perpendicular to that wall, but as you go down the hall, that pattern is now angled. I am kinda ok with it like this in the hall, but the bedrooms, it just doesn't look right. Do you change this or leave as is? If I change the bedrooms, it will be an obvious clash in pattern direction at the hall. I was hired as a referral, because this home owner loved the idea of having realistic images of the build she saw I had did. So I want to present something pleasing, so her right eye doesn't go crazy like mine. Any ideas on how to make this better? I am open to suggestions.

@SH_Canada Thanks man, that was it.. I had it as default text style and not room label style.

I've been meaning to ask this for a while.. just didn't take the time until now. In my Plan Default Set all my room labels are Bold and underlined. Exactly how I want them, but in all my other plan views (electrical, kitchen and baths, etc...) the room labels are not bold or underlined. How and where do I get these to come in correctly on these other views? Thanks

@Alaskan_Son WOW.. So did I Larry. I'll have to read up this myself.

Look at your ceiling and your roof framing defaults. Your actual ceiling might be framed a different nom lumber width than your roof framing sizes.

YEP.. don't know why I had import anxiety on that, it was pretty simple.

I had to create a new layer set on this current plan that had a walk out basement. So I created a set for the foundation part of it, so I could detail the foundation separately from the basement plan. I want to copy this new set to my temp-plate file. But it looks like, from what help is stating, that all the layer sets get copied over. Is there a way to copy a specific set? And if not, will there be any issues if Imported that .layers file into my template, like will it create duplicates? I am assuming not, but want to make sure from you pro's. Thx.

I have a 3-planed ceiling, not really a cathedral, I need to put T&G pine on this in the direction showed because of the ceiling framing. How do I get this pattern to line up? I had thought to create a new material and adjust the center plane in the direction it needed to go, BUT when I do that, all three planes change... its acting as one. I did this ceiling using ceiling planes. Any ideas how to align? Thanks in advance

I'm not sure, but I would think there would be some manual components to it. Why is this needed is the first question, like is this for a future expansion? I guess how I would do it, is to put in a door opening, without jamb, casings, etc.. this will get you a framed doorway w header. Then manually, add the framing to enclose it, and drywall per side. This shouldn't take to long. I'd make it a block too, so if the door moves, you can move the internal components with one pick. Other than that, looking at the door dbx, I am not seeing another option, BUT there are many on here who are well versed in Chief that might know.. My $.02. Good luck.

That is really cool...

I don't get a lot of CMU houses here, let alone a two-story one, but this one I noticed the second floor exterior doors have a header underneath them. Is this typical for a CMU build? BTW, there is a header above the door as there should be. I checked and this is does not have a sill. Like I said, the CMU's I've done prior were single story, so if this is a common thing. Great, I learned something today. But the brain in me, says a header under the door, doesn't make sense.

DEFINETLY.. it sounds like she was talking to herself. Instead of two walls, why not build one wall with all you need, using a concrete exterior and a furred wall on the inside? In the wall DBX, unlimited options for building this wall out.

I couldn't agree with you more, OOTB it should be this way. Believe it or not, It used to be worse, I think in either 15 or 16 we are able to do as Rene showed. For the most part thought, I model my own post, esp. if I don't have rails or balusters..

@Renerabbitt I think you were to be tagged..

@JKEdmo Is there a room above this room? Sometimes that causes issues. In this case, I just used soffits, if it's being a butt..

I modeled this terrain with my main floor at 0, and I am on a hill per say, looking down to a road that is ~8' lower. The road "true" elevation is 11.31' (NAVD88). I want my terrain contours labels to read correctly, and not stating the road is at 0' and my top contour is at 8'. How do I make this happen? I thought moving by editing the complete model, would do that. And where is the setting for contour dims?

Cool stuff. I started a brief folder of art too, just no where near what you have. This will help.

When your in the plan mode or a section view (or even in layout), turn on the "Line Weights" and you should see what it will look like in the layout views. This way, if they appear to thick or thin, you can adjust accordingly.

Hey Krissy, Its def a mess, but the layout is cool. Does the architect really want these roof planes like this? Drainage issues everywhere. The first thing that pops out to me are your roof planes. First get the ridges in line with each other, esp. at the corners and straighten them out. Second, you have planes on top of planes...see attached vid. get each section as its own entity, and connect with the "Join Roof Planes" tool. Try aligning main walls from below with the walls on second floor. Turn "WALL LAYERS" on to, so you can see your walls easier. This will be a start.. take care of these and repost if you still need help. roof planes.mp4

@para-CAD Thanks man... this is great stuff. Were these done is Sketchup? If done in Chief, wow, man I have a long way to go to be at this level. The calculators are awesome.

A simple slab and post like you show (sitting on the grade), I model the slab at the shape and size I need (using the slab function and not the railing). I then do my roof planes. over this slab. I model my post (with footers underneath) and beams strategically with the roof. I don't call out porches on my room schedule (typically), but do note it on the floor plan. Doing it this way, I can have as much space between the edges and post as I want. If I am having same porch, but need a foundation under the slab, I will model this with railing walls (with ceilings/roof turned on), but specify my railings as open, no newels or post and no rails. Then I do as I did before, and model the post and beams manually. It takes only a few minutes, the 3D looks right and my porch details on the docs detail this connection.

Unless something tragic happens and I need to go that way, it will be summer. lol. But def will reach out if we do. A lot of memories at Lake Michigan as a kid and teenager. Grandbabies are awesome.

Do you need a separate footer the Porch columns? Your porch looks to be concrete, that should be suffice for support and not have the need for those "footers". How did you get this anyways? Did you add the post/w footer, then added the porch? The easiest way to do a porch like this, is to using a straight railing. Draw it at the porch size you need, then in its DBX of the railing wall, at Rail Style, check OPEN for specifying railing. Uncheck top rail, bottom rail and this will get you just the columns.

This is probably the area I'd used this the most, since I am always tweaking the attic and truss package (instead of redoing, I like a clean slate). Good point, on being on a specific floor too.. You changed your profile Pict. We were up in MI last week. My sister lives in Grand Haven, mom lives in Howard City south of Big Rapids. Way to cold up there brother!