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Everything posted by Joe_Carrick

  1. Dermot, it's the LAYOUT BOX I'm talking about so a positive (not negative) offset value is correct for positioning the Label up from the reference location. This is totally different from Wall, Door, Window, Cabinet, etc Labels IOW, the offset means "Move this Much - to the (x) right or (y) up" The software should be attuned to the way a designer or draftsperson thinks - not an arbitrary programming "rule". ie: User Friendly
  2. A couple of comments: Please fill in your "Signature" so we know what version and hardware you're using. Please post Questions in the Q&A Forum. Tips and Techniques is for sharing your tried and true methods. You could do one of two things to solve this: Use 2x12 Rafters Use 2 Framing Layers (2x8's and 2x4's) for the Roof Framing. (the framing would be stacked but only 11" thick so you might want a 1" air gap between) OTOH, if this is an existing attic and you just want to furr-down then Perry's method would probably best.
  3. Layout Box Callout "Y-Offset" is backwards. To place it UP from the referenced location a "negative" (-) value is required. It should be a "positive" (+) value.
  4. I use a macro for the openings in Framing Plans that shows the Header_Size, # of King Stud, # of Jack Studs. This information can also be included in the Door & Window Schedules - but I'm not sure the framers would pay much attention to that.
  5. Stange, I have no problem inserting a Niche. It doesn't matter what the wall is - even a single layer concrete wall works. What are your "Wall Niche" defaults? Maybe one of the dimensions is too small.
  6. Do any of you have a Matterport Pro camera? Are you using a service for your 3D Scans? If so, what's the typical cost per sq.ft.?
  7. Try it I'm pretty sure it will need at least 2 layers but I'm not sure it requires a framing layer.
  8. I've found a product "proVent" that installs between the rafters. Seems like a simpler detail.
  9. When there's insulation in the ceiling and also between the rafters, how is the "Vent Baffle" detailed to insure the clear space for air flow? Does anyone have a detail or specification to handle this ?
  10. You will need to ask your Building Dept.
  11. If you make the Horse Stall using a Post to Beam Railing Wall......Then you should be able to place the Barn Door in that wall. However, you will actually have to place a "Hinged Door" and then change the "Door Type" to "Barn" because Chief doesn't allow direct placement of Barn Doors in Railing Walls. IMO this is a BUG! Then edit the door height, and width to suit.
  12. Here's a sample using my method showing what can be done just by adjusting the dimensions of the Panels. For the Panel above the Window I just changed it to the "Window Headers" layer so it wouldn't show in the Floor Plan.
  13. No, there aren't any "shortcuts" but once you have the Chamfered Concrete Panels in the Library you will never have to create them again. Also, defined as Symbols you can change the materials, sizes, etc and include them in a Schedule. I save the Solids used to create the Panel Symbols as a special plan so I can easily create variations for unique panels with other indentations. I have a couple with recessed horizontal bands. You will also want to set their "drawing level" to something less than "Walls" so they will block the wall in Plan View. If you place one panel in a wall you can then transform/replicate to place many panels, spaced so the caulk shows between the panels. As a matter of preference, I place all doors windows and other openings in the "Caulk Walls" before placing and sizing the Panels. I've done several Tilt-up Buildings using this technique and it really works quite well. Once you get the system set up you'll find it's really quick & easy on subsequent projects. Don't forget to create a Template Plan.
  14. I would make one layer "Caulk Walls" (the thickness of the panels minus the chamfers) and then superimpose 3D Concrete Panel Symbols. It's basically the same way I build Log Walls. This is a very specific way of modeling a structure. In the case of Concrete Tilt-up Construction I would make the Panels with stretch planes at: x = 0 mm y = -40 mm z= 100 mm so that I could stretch them in any direction to match the design. Note, I only work with Imperial units so my stretch planes would be x = 0" y = -3" z = 12" But you get the idea. The Panels would be centered on the "Caulk Walls". Doors and Windows can be inserted into the "Caulk Walls". That way you only need to place the Panels as needed.
  15. Exactly. Another possibility would be to specify a -3" height 6" wide curb. I'm not sure if that would work but maybe.....
  16. Actually, I also measure to the exterior (wall dimension line). I didn't mean to imply the "Finish Face". The Exterior Room Polyline will provide this.
  17. This is the problem with using "Floor Level 0" as the "Walkout Basement". If you insert another Floor and make "Floor Level 1" the "Walkout Basement" you will be able to add the Pony Wall to "Floor Level 0" which should be reserved as the "Foundation". Using this scenario: Floor Level 0 = "Foundation" Floor Level 1 = "Walkout Basement" Floor Level 2 = "1st / Main Floor" Floor Level 3 = "2nd / Upper Floor" I also have another Floor below the "Attic" which is usually just 1/16" tall but allows rooms to be defined at that level.
  18. Are you really still using X8? I would have no idea what was capable back then.
  19. Living Area may be different for a variety of reasons: Unspecified space (shafts, etc) are not included as "Living Area" Garages, etc are not included as "Living Area" Standard Area is a better representation of the area of a building - it's typically measured to the exterior face of the walls. OTOH, using 2D CAD Polylines as the object to use for area when performing FAR, Site Coverage, Impermeable/Permeable, etc gives you much more flexibility. That way you can easily match what might have been indicated by an assessor or surveyor.
  20. Maybe because of a setting in the Stair Default ? I'm just guessing
  21. Another thing you can try is selecting the railing that's a double line and then continuing it back to the exterior wall. This should replace the single line railing.
  22. Don't drop the ceiling height of the Garage. There are 3 basic solutions: Create a "Ceiling Plane" at the desired height instead. Adjust the Floor construction to include an air gap below the framing. Make the Ceiling Finish include an air gap and ceiling joists. Ther may be other things to consider depending on the location of the Garage and Kitchen. Posting the plan would help.