Alaskan_Son

Thanks Scott. And yep, we're still frozen although its starting to warm up during the day . No shoveling though, we haven't had much snow this year.

While this is true, its certainly not the only way or even the only RIGHT way. For example... -The upper wall (Brick-4_2) could be set to Foundation to Exterior of Layer: 2 - Insulation Air Gap. -The brick on the lower wall (8" Concrete Stem Wall) could be moved to an Exterior Layer. -Click the Align With Wall Above/Below tool and you're good to go. Note that the main layers are NOT aligned. There are several other such methods and settings that could result in a correct and accurate model where main layers are not aligned. Again, it depends on what exactly you're trying to do.

There are probably 12 different ways you could get those walls to align and I honestly don't know the best place to start. It really depends on how you are building. Here are a few key areas to explore and try to understand though... -Wall Type Definitions for both the foundation wall and/or the wall above. Specifically for the reasons below... -Main Layers vs. Exterior Layers -Foundation to Exterior of Layer settings -Foundation Offset settings

I think I found the limiting factor. You can only have TWO walls occupy the same space...one normal and one No Room Definition. A second wall of either type (or third wall overall) will override the first. EDIT: Sorry Scott, I realize now that this might have been what you were refering to earlier when you said "I am not sure why non def walls cannot stack on top of each other..." To reiterate though for those who don't know this...You CAN have 2 walls occupy the same space, but you CANNOT have 2 normal walls or 2 No Room Def walls occupy the same space. Only one of each.

Your white railing actually overrode the room divider below it.

Haven't figured out why yet, but you are correct. I can't do it in the plan you attached. I can though in a new plan. EDIT: I've honestly never really played around much with this until now as I've always just used the Save As method for creating various options. In the past I've only toyed with the concept for creating demo walls. I'm not sure I want to spend much more time on it as I don't see myself ever using it, but after a little further investigation it seems to work in some instances and not in others or up to a certain point and then it stops working. The factor that defines where that change takes place I have not yet discovered. I'd be curious to know what that is if anyone else decides to dig deeper.

Go to Default Settings>Dimension>Auto Exterior Dimensions and click on the Locate Objects tab. Under Wall Options, make sure Both Wall Sides is NOT selected.

Stacking walls has always worked for me and still does.

That's what I meant when I said...

By "plan", we mean the actual plan file. Too many variables otherwise.

It depends on what you are worth to people. One guy might charge $150 and another guy might charge $50. If the guy charging $150 has the talent and training of Frank Lloyd Wright and is 3 times as fast and efficient as the guy charging $50, the guy charging $50 starts to look like he's OVERcharging and the guy charging $150 starts to look like a bargain.

I don't have any great answer for you at the moment, but did you try unlocking the cross section lines layer (not at my computer and don't remember what it's actually called) and then selecting those? Might partially speed up the process...I don't know. BTW Johnny, I think you really have a gift for creating beautiful 2D visuals. Every time you post any of your finish quality CAD work I am always very impressed. Nice work.

We do. It's called proper layer control

It's about two thirds of the way down the list. Just looks blank like one of the lines is missing.

First suggestion... Post the plan. Then we can all be on the same page.

I don't think there's any way you're going to get an accurate answer without a plan. If we could tell what you were talking about from your original post and the truss plans there would be no reason for you to draw plan in the first place. I always find it somewhat interesting when people here say that the plan isn't necessary when we pay thousands of dollars for software and people pay us thousands of dollars to draw plans...And why do we draw plans? For the sole purpose of communicating information. Seems like if anyone would understand the importance of seeing the whole picture it would be the designers and builders on this forum.

You could also optionally group select those points by switching to the Point Marker tool and just put them on their own layer if you want to keep them but don't want them to print.

Select the room and click the Make Room Molding Polyline tool. Then you have an automatically created molding polyline you can edit however you want. P.S. I noticed you sent me a P.M. I'll check it out in a bit here.

I would strongly suggest you ask her before doing this so you don't step on any toes, but you could consider downloading the trial version for use in the interim. It is of course your right to do whatever you want, but as a designer and builder I know there are a lot of problems that can arise by getting "too many cooks in the kitchen". Using the viewer is one thing but being able to get in and make changes could lead to some unexpected consequences and may not be in anyone's best interest.

There are a few ways you could do that: - You could add some text before or after the actual dimension as necessary to reflect the required information. - You could add a line with arrows on both ends and then manually place some text over that line ("30" minimum" or whatever they want to see) to mimic a dimension. - Probably the best method...Make your dimension text a little smaller and just manually place whatever text you want over the top of it. You actually don't even need to make the dimension text smaller if your new text is as long or longer than the dimension text. There may be others as well, but those are a few that come to mind. I have requested in the past that we have a way to modify dimensions for situations like this. May be time to suggest it again.

Here's a video going over a pretty quick and accurate way to model that type of siding using polyline solids produced via CDFV (CAD Detail From View). While I was proof watching the video I realized I did some things kinda inefficiently near the end (could have used some simpler methods for the group selecting and subtraction process) but it should give you a pretty good idea anyway.

Just click.

I honestly don't really care one way or another in this situation, but I find it interesting when people say things like that. Does the contractor you work for buy exclusive and total rights to your work? Also, you don't even have to post the entire plan in most circumstances. Just do a Save As and delete all the unnecessary stuff. In this particular instance for example all we might really need to see is a stripped down plan with a few walls and a screenshot of one of the wall details. Its all good though.

I'd like to see an example of one of those plans if you're willing to post it (both the plan file and layout or CDs). If done properly with polyline solids there should be no reason you have to do the extra CAD work. In fact, I would probably use CAD work as the basis for my polyline solids anyway so the 2 should match perfectly.

I agree, and I believe I also suggested the same thing some time back. Material regions, custom backsplashes, etc. really need to extend to the outside finished corner.