Alaskan_Son

Can you be more specific re: which particular part you're having trouble with? There's a lot going on there. Low slope roof, parapet walls, dropped wall section, flashing details, steel bar joists...

Just off the top of my head, you could put those notes into a CAD Detail instead, you could put them on another floor and use reference sets. You could put them on another floor, turn the layer off and copy/paste hold position onto foundation level after you rebuild foundation...

I wanted to add another method I just recently discovered for those who either... A. haven't gotten around to learning how to use anno sets B. know how to use anno sets but don't find it worth the hassle C. use anno sets almost exclusively for the sole purpose of placing annotations on specific layers I fall into those last 2 categories much of the time and until Chief makes an easier way to simply copy an anno set and change just the layer settings, I often find it quicker and easier to just "freestyle" it. Here's the method and I'm sure its probably what most of you did before anno sets came about (I started with X3 so I think I've always had them)... - For CAD work, use the Current CAD Layer tool (CAD>Current CAD Layer) to switch layer sets. This will place all new CAD work on that layer. - For dimensions, select your desired dimension tool (preferably after selecting an annotation set with the proper scale), double click on the dimension tool again, click on the layer tab and select the layer you want to place dimensions on. - For text, rich text, callouts, etc. just repeat the steps above. I just find that to be an easy and manageable on-the -fly way to control which layers your annotations are drawn on without having to screw around with setting up new anno sets. I suppose the same method could be used to modify text size, line style, and so forth too. I just think its a lot easier to change settings for only the tool you'll be using rather than making changes to all tools to create a new and properly defined anno set. NOTE: If you want to use anno sets in a traditional way in conjunction with this method, simply make some copies of the appropriate anno sets for use on the fly. Maybe name them "1/8" Freestyle", "1/4" Freestyle", "1/2" Freestyle", and "Plot Plan Freestyle".

The answer to the second part of your question re: notes for elevations...depends on how you want those notes listed. Will they be on the same plan note schedule or on a totally independent schedule? Here's a few quick ideas though to allow multiple schedules... - You can use a different type of schedule entirely (other than a plant schedule). There are plenty of other schedules and "Objects To Include" options you can utilize. - Probably my new favorite...You can draw a room off to the side in your plan somewhere using invisible walls, with no floor and no roof/ceiling, excluded from living space square footage, and unconditioned. Maybe give it a name like "Plan Notes". Set your schedule to display only objects from that room and then drop your symbols in there. Once your symbol is placed in the room, drag ONLY THE LABEL over to the desired location. The room simply serves as a place holder for the symbols while the labels go wherever you want them. Using this method along with unique layers could result in a near endless number of custom schedules on any given floor. -You can also use a similar method to the above by creating an extra floor as a place holder for those symbols. Set your schedule to include objects only from that floor and then use reference sets to display on floors below...OR for elevation views simply drag the LABELS down like in the previous example. Only complication with this method is that the plant (or whatever type) symbol would have to be placed in the proper plane between your elevation camera and whatever it is your elevation is displaying.

To answer the first part of your question... The schedule on your second floor was just set to Include Objects From Floor: 1. Just change that to floor 2 and you're good to go.

I totally agree. They work awesome. Super easy to add mouldings, change panel styles, etc. They're even better now that we have independent control over all 4 sides.

Way to go HUMBLE Chief!!;-)

I like to use cabinets as well.

Or if none of those work for you, try Preferences>Edit...Show Start And End Indicators

Speaking of this, I just happened to realize a little earlier today that we have the capability of using CAD block instances dynamically. Can you share what situations you've found (if any) where this might be particularly useful?

Not sure I fully understand the question, but there are a few macros that could come into play. The 2 I think you might want to use are... Layout Page # (%page%) which will display the actual layout page # (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc.) Layout Page Label (%layout.label%) which will display the label you enter in the Layout Page Information dbx (see below) Place those macros in the appropriate places in a text box on page zero and then on each individual layout page (Tools>Layout>Edit Page Information) enter your desired prefix followed by the # sign. The # sign will automatically display the sequential page numbers for each prefix you assign (A1, A2, A3, M1, M2, M3, etc.) OR, simply enter the prefix if all you want is prefixes and actual page numbers. Play around with that and see if that gets you what you're looking for.

Question 1...Yes. Just manually place the lighted post caps on your newel posts and adjust as necessary in an elevation view. Question 2...Just draw a very short section of invisible wall between your railing and the wall. I think you basically have to draw the very short invisible wall first, then drag your railing over NEAR it (not all the way...maybe about 4" away). The railing will join to the invisible wall when its close enough. If you drag the railing all the way TO the invisible wall section or get too close the railing will overtake it and delete it.

3D warehouse has a few. I don't think we have any in Chief though.

You bet, sorry that took so long : )

Actually, nevermind that last thing. Uncheck Legacy Shadows. I bet that's your problem.

Maybe uncheck it then?

Under Preferences>Render, try to check Use Enhanced Lighting.

Try these settings... Tilt Angle: -48 Direction Angle: 90.0 degrees

Hmmm...works fine for me. Just to make sure we're talking about the same thing though, if you navigate to 3D>Lighting, Toggle Sunlight and Toggle Shadows are both checked before you start adjusting sun right?

Are your sun or shadows toggled off?

If you're just after a specific look simply for artistic purposes, take a 3D view, open up the adjust sunlight dbx, select Use Generic Sun and play with the Tilt Angle and Direction Angle sliders till you get the look you are after. If your sun and shadows are both toggled on any changes you make inside the dbx will reflect right away (even without closing the dbx).

If your sun settings are correct, you won't start getting any sun in the window by that table till around 3 or 4 PM. Just adjust the time settings.

Are you referring to shadows? If so, 3D>Rendering Techniques>Technique Options>Vector View and adjust the shadow intensity.

Here's another idea. A bit trickier but probably easier as well... You can place your door or drawer front in a blank plan and using the delete surface tool you can adjust the material settings for the various faces. After adjusting the material settings, delete all the surfaces you don't want to affect, and then Convert To Symbol (before allowing 3D to rebuild). If desired, go through the process again for a second set of surfaces. Lastly, drop the original symbol into the plan and delete any and all surfaces you previously changed and convert what remains to a symbol. Drop those 2 or 3 new symbols into a blank plan and overlap them onto each other. Now take a 3D view and Convert to Symbol. You will now have a very customized door or drawer front with different materials for all the various faces.

I don't have an answer per se, but if you think about how that glazed effect is created it might give you an idea... There are multiple techniques people use to achieve various looks, but I think what most have in common is that an additional, semi transparent, often tinted topcoat or "glaze" is applied. If you create an extra cabinet door, drawer front, or molding profile just slightly bigger than than the first either by copying and pasting in place or simply by creating and re-sizing a symbol for the appropriate area(s) on the cabinet, you can change the material on the second front to a semi transparent, colored material. I messed around with it for a bit and was able to achieve varying degrees of success. Might be worth a look. Just play around with the various material and rendering settings to see if you can get an acceptable result.