Alaskan_Son

That particular instance I would probably just do with a polyline solid.

I have to finish up some office work here so I don't have time to go through it all in detail, but I just took a quick look. That one frieze isn't building because of the way that wall to roof transition is. Drag that roof down a couple more inches and it shows up. Have a look at why that might be. The soffit at the lower floor is like that because your rafter depth is set to be deeper than your fascia. Didn't have a chance to dig into the 3rd issue yet.

Send to layout and use "Chief Architect Save As PDF" as your printer. Easy peasy. If you have Windows 10 you can also use Microsoft's built in PDF printer as well. In the future, questions like these should go into the General Q&A section.

Here's how I was taught. Standing in the opening with your back to the hinges which way does the door open...if it opens to the left it's a LH. If it opens to the right...you guessed it...RH.

Did you watch my video in post #11 David? It goes over the basics of the process pretty well and step by step. I made it specifically for people new to the process... The only notable thing I wish I had included in the basics was that you can block your custom schedule and add it to your library (if you don't like to keep stuff like that in your template plan). It just needs to be dropped in the plan and exploded.

Select the roof plane(s) and there is a tool in the edit toolbar named something like "Move Up a Floor". I'm not at my computer but I don't remember the exact name. It should have an arrow pointing up though and there should be one right next to it with an arrow pointing down.

I agree. Chief really shines with cabinetry (what we mostly use it for actually). With regard to fillers, it really depends on your goal and how accurate you want to be. A filler is actually a filler (no box). If you place a filler and then uncheck filler, the filler will be changed to a full cabinet with a totally blank face (could also be done manually to a cabinet instead of changing a filler but unchecking filler is faster). I personally pretty much never use fillers and do it all with custom boxes and scribe moulding so I pretty much always use actual caninets (no fillers) for all of it.

6. You can use polyline solids. 7. You can use a combination of the above. There may be other methods as well. P.S. This thread should be moved to the General Q&A section. I don't know what's going on lately but questions being posted in the wrong places seems to be getting a little out of hand.

It seems like perhaps the responses I placed in bold inside the quoted OP in my first post were going unnoticed so I edited that post by just removing the "Quote box" (or whatever its called) to make them a little more clear.

To be fair, setting up an automated schedule only takes a few minutes as well. The 2 biggest challenges just seem to be... 1. Trying to explain the techniques to others. 2. Modifying the techniques to fit your own personal needs. Some major benefits to an automated schedule over a manually created one... 1. No need to keep track of of any numbering or syncing. Add a note wherever you want and the note schedule is automatically updated, delete a note and schedule is automatically updated. Want a note moved to the top of the list? Just drag it up in the schedule and the rest are automatically renumbered. 2. No need to adjust and move notes around to make room for text wrapping issues. 3. No need to manually create and adjust boxes, columns, headers, etc. Keeping manual notes is definitely a valid technique and I won't knock it. But using an automated schedule has a lot of benefits and from experience I can tell you that its not nearly as complicated as it may first seem.

Short answer... For walls, if you want an accurate material list, change through the wall definition dbx. If material list isn't important, it doesn't really matter. I would just strongly recommend you uncheck Blend Colors With Materials when using the eyedropper/material painter. That particular options should only be used in a very limited number of circumstances. For most (if not all) objects other than walls, using the "spray can" has the same effect as changing material through the appropriate dbx. So either way is fine. Again, make sure "Blend" is toggled OFF (unchecked).

Glenn pretty much summed up what I would suggest as well. I think he's right too...none of the dimensions will actually snap to each other. Some will continue adding segments as you drag, but if you stop the string you won't be able to snap to it again UNLESS you use the little diamond edit handle beneath the dimension which will pull a new dimension segment off either end of the first segment. I personally pretty much always do exactly as Glenn suggested to align dimensions with each other...use one of the Align/Distribute tools.

You should probably post an actual plan file if you want an accurate answer. Too many variables. We'd all just be guessing at what you did or did not do.

Nice! Thank you Robert.

Did you read the responses in my first post?

What are you having a hard time snapping to or aligning to?

That's the real issue with standing seam roofing I think. It is very 3D in nature. If its not 3D, it simply doesn't look right.

See my responses (in bold) below... Bath house with metal building structure of metal studs need exterior gable walls to go to bottom of roof You need to make the roof completely cover the wall for this to happen. need dropped 2'x2' layin 8 ft ht ceiling (mechanical needs to fit in attic) I must be missing something. It looks like you already have this. Need metal joists in Laundry room to span other direction toward restrooms. Build>Framing>Joist Direction. Drop one in plan running the correct direction. Wall where toilets are will not change to have tile on the inside ? This is because your wall definition has Insulation Air Gap as your main interior layer. Delete that and you should be good to go. Needs to be metal standing seam roof. This is a lot more complex. Not sure I want to take the time to go through this. Not a quick and easy solution though. As far as I know it pretty much has to be done manually. I would probably either build another roof on top and only display the "framing" (standing seams) and ridge cap (might require making a symbol out of the roof) OR just use polyline solids.

I'll try to make a video when I have a little more spare time. In the meantime, here are a few notes that might help you out... -You'll probably just have to get used to dropping your note symbol in plan view. An extra step yes, but if you get in the habit it's really not that big a deal IMO. The fact is that the note has to remain between your camera and the closest object. Thus the benefit of dropping in plan first. -Plant labels have 2 very useful characteristics... 1. If the rotate handle is moved while in plan view so that it is perpendicular with any given camera view it will disappear in that view. This is one of the useful ways to hide the label in unwanted views. 2. If the label is moved away from the symbol (like with the place holder room technique) it is only moved in that one camera view. -Due to fact number 2 above, all you really have to do is create an extra floor or series of floors, set your schedule to display only objects from the desired floor, drop the note symbol in front of your camera (in plan view) and then drag the label down in elevation view. -You can also just drop the various note symbols onto unique layers and turn those on and off as necessary. I know a lot of guys don't do this, but I personally "Make Copy Of Active Layer Set" for almost each and every view I send to layout. This makes layer control an absolute breeze for things like this. -The above things don't seem all that complicated to me personally, but we all think and work differently. If you like the automated plan note idea for plan views but using it for elevations just seems like too much for you, you can always just do notes for elevations manually. Anyway, those are just a few ideas. Hopefully they help.

Attach the plan.

To get an accurate answer you should really probably attach the plan. Too many variables. From the sounds of it though, you should be able to adjust everything you're talking about fairly easily through the various room DBX's. Adjusting the CORRECT numbers and sometimes in the right order though is key.

You'll have to select your schedule then and uncheck "Display as Callout" (which is what Joe was alluding to).

I think the only way you'll be able to get both labels to show would be to manually place one of them or maybe group select all your windows late in the process and Copy/Paste in Place. Uncheck Include in schedule for the 2nd copies and put them on their own layer.

We almost always use the 2nd scenario...Full "L" shaped corner cabinet (with bifold doors). We will occasionally use a blind corner though and every once in a while there is a blank space with either of those methods. Almost never use an angled corner cabinet though.

That was nice of you Joe. And yep...that's the same and only one I was able to find too.