Alaskan_Son

Try Edit>Preferences>Reset Options>Reset Side Windows

Absolutely agree. I would probably be tempted to save a copy of the original solid too though just in case you decide you need to modify it in the future. Symbols are great as finished products but not so great when you want to add or modify something (other than basic sizing or material changes).

Gotcha. Your method was very similar to mine except that instead of making the frame really shallow I just removed it entirely. Same basic idea though.

Quick follow up. I was away from my computer when I made that last post. I tested that idea out when I got back to the office though. It definitely works but its also definitely a bit of a PITA. Not worth it IMO. Having said that, I still think its the fastest option we currently have. I believe every other option would require even more work.

All you should need for that one is 3 polyline solids and 2 truncated pyramids. I'll try to make a video if I have a few spare minutes a little later. You shouldn't actually need to use any faces (I honestly don't think I've ever actually needed them for anything as there's almost...if not always...another way). I touched on them very briefly in this video though. In this instance they were only the faces resulting from an exploded solid, but the face tool gives you essentially the same thing without starting with a solid.

I think the best you're gonna be able to do is this...copy paste in place a second set of dimensions. Specify one as having only blank segments (new option in X8) and set the other to have no extensions at all. Assign different line styles to each.

I'm guessing it's the same technique mentioned in the first part of post #20

Only have a couple minutes before I head into a meeting, but real quick... I could be misunderstanding you, but if you place the wall breaks like I suggested, Chief should automatically add studs at all those breaks.

Very nice Joe.

I don't think I understand. Is this a question or a comment? And can you clarify what you mean?

Check out post #32 to see if that gives you any useful answers. The 3 biggest things are... 1. The plant labels layer needs to be on (as well as the plants or notes layer...or whatever layer you have them on). 2. The symbol needs to be placed between your camera and the nearest object (i.e. so that the camera can actually "see" it) 3. The symbol needs to be rotated properly as noted in the aforementioned post

I would just manually place those breaks. If you want exactly 96" spacing, I would just draw a line perpendicular with the beginning of the wall and use multiple copy with the primary offset set at 96" to distribute that line along the length of the wall. Then use those temporary lines as snap points for your breaks. The answer to question 2 is no. And I'm not sure what you mean by framing looking "way not realistic".

You're very welcome. Glad you got it figured out : )

You may have just said it by accident, but just to clarify for your own sake and for the sake of others reading this, what you are actually doing is defining your framing using Material Definitions, NOT the Texture. Inside those Material Definitions for your framing material are... -General Definitions (THIS is where you specify it as framing and set the thickness and spacing) -Pattern Definitions where you can essentially assign a specified linework pattern that will display in vector views -Texture Definitions where you assign a bitmap (picture) file as well as the sizing, angle, offset, scale, and color settings for that image that will be used to specify what your material looks like in Standard, Duotone, Painting, and Watercolor render modes and in Ray Traces -Properties Definitions where you further decide how that material looks and behaves in standard and ray trace render modes by adjusting a material's emissiveness, transparency, roughness, reflectiveness, etc.

Not exactly. Try this... Set stud spacing through Build Framing dbx. Select the desired wall(s), Build Framing For Selected Object(s), open Wall Specification dbx, click on Structure tab and check Retain Wall Framing. Now adjust stud spacing in Build Framing dbx and either repeat process or simply check Build Wall Framing while you're in there to frame the remaining walls.

I was actually referring to a different option guys. Explore the Build Framing options. Still not at my computer but there's an option to either use the material settings (which you guys are talking about) or use an entirely different spacing (regardless of the material settings). Not suggesting one way over the other. Just wanted to clarify that there are controls for framing spacing outside the material definition.

Not at my computer to elaborate or verify the correct terms, but look through the build framing dbx. You can choose to use material settings or a different number.

You could export as another file type that could probably be imported into an older version of Chief (essentially as a symbol) but it wouldn't be useful for all that much.

No. And there is no exception.

You basically have 4 options (at least that come to mind)... 1. Create a new wall type and change through wall dbx (material tab) 2. Create a new wall type and use material painter (again not in plan or room mode) 3. Use a Wall Covering 4. Use a Wall Material Region

If you're trying to use the material painter, make sure it's not set to Room or Plan. And if you're using anything older than X8 the material painter won't work unless you have not only placed a break but created another wall TYPE.

Open the dbx for the specific wall (not the room) and click on the wall covering tab.

Yes you can. It just takes some extra steps if you want different spacing on different walls.

Sounds like it's building like you want it then. I wasn't quite sure of how you wanted it built. No matter...that 7/8" is still coming from the thickness of your OSB. I'm away from my computer, but if I remember correctly, your upper walls are dimensioning to the face of FRAMING (excludes OSB).

Sorry, I misunderstood. Glenn is correct. That is controlled by the marker size...marker radius to be precise.