Alaskan_Son

Edit>Default Settings>Plan>Snap Grid / Snap Units

Just to clarify here... -As I suggested and as Richard spelled out in a little more detail, you can adjust the floor structure settings via Edit>Default Settings>Floor>Floor Structure. Doing this you will adjust the floor defaults for whichever floor you are on when you open the Default Settings dbx. -As Joe suggested you can also reach the exact same Floor Structure dbx. by going through the framing defaults. This has the benefit of allowing you to adjust those settings for multiple floors without having to switch floors and open up defaults again. -The above 2 methods only adjust the "defaults" on a floor by floor basis. In order to adjust the ACTUAL floor structure defaults plan wide though you need to do so via Edit>Default Settings>Rooms>Normal Room>Floor Structure tab. This way you can actually check that little Default box if you want to.

Floor defaults, structure tab.

They should be able to export a DWG, a 3D DWG, 3DS, etc. The bigger problem though is material definitions. You would probably need to run it through a separate program (like Sketchup maybe) in order to assign materials to the various surfaces.

There you go. Using rood planes is probably the easiest method. Great idea Val!

Angela, Maybe this thread will help you a bit... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/9789-video-request-elevation-dimensioning/?hl=%2Belevation+%2Bpoint+%2Bpoint#entry85433 Unfortunately, story pole dimensions aren't going to help you when it comes to any horizontal dimensions such as the overhang you mentioned (at least that's what it sounds like you're talking about), and I really doubt it has anything to do with your dimension settings. I for one won't sugar coat it...there are simply a lot of things that don't dimension very well in elevation views and I find myself resorting to point to point dimensions quite a bit for elevation views. BTW, you don't actually need to use the auto story pole dimension tool for story pole dimensions either. You can dimension all those items using standard dimension tools as well.

Yep. This is what I would do as well. Could be done in just a couple minutes. I originally answered that a molding polyline was probably the easiest but deleted my answer almost immediately once I realized the shape wasn't the same on all sides.

Only way I know of would be to use a normal full camera view and create a series of ray traces one at a time as you manually walk the camera through. Then, once they're complete just piece the photos together with a video editing program like Windows Movie Maker...which although not automatically downloaded with Windows anymore can still be downloaded from Microsoft for free. I think a 3rd party program is probably a better solution though and doubt that will change anytime soon for Chief...or most any other architectural design program for that matter.

Aww man!! C'mon...that was funny. Aboooooot. Hahahaha :-/ Oh well...I liked it.

Does that mean 9 999,00 would be roughly equal to... Aboot 10,000 meters?

That's because you need to assign a TEXTURE with the brick pattern. Read up on material definitions, patterns, and textures but just very briefly... The texture is what is used in ray traces and normal render views and is essentially just a bitmap image that is either tiled or stretched to fit. The pattern is used in vector views, technical illustrations, and line drawings and is essentially just a line work pattern that is repeated to whatever specs you have it set to.

Maybe post the plan. Sounds like you might be doing something wrong or snapping your dimension to the wrong object. Works fine for me.

I have to ask...why exactly are you putting doorways in your schedule? No biggie and I'm sure you have a good reason, you just got me curious.

I think he meant to say overhang. In other words, the custom top is all one piece rather than a bunch of separate pieces with separate nodes.

In that case, in Preferences set Color Off to Grayscale. Once you do that there's no need to print in color.

Not sure what to tell you about farmhouse sinks. I never mess with them. I really don't like them and therefore they've never worked there way into our designs...well, maybe one or 2 during the conceptual phase. I can't pretend I know what to do. Can someone explain to me what the problem with them is though and maybe I can help figure out a solution? Seems like all a person needs to do is build the cabinet short and put a notch in the countertop. We can even pretty easily put a notch in the cabinet if the sink is smaller than the cabinet front by splitting face items vertically and creating a blank area in the middle. What am I missing?

Not sure I understand your issue with chefs tables either. Can you post an example of that too?

Don't rightly understand your issue with putting a toe kick on a wall cabinet. Why can't you simply use a base or full cabinet? What am I missing?

For your issue with component specs and cabinet modifications... Have you considered or explored adding your own custom sub categories and columns?

For the countertop issue. Use custom countertops and you can remove the fillet. Couldn't get much easier than that. I'm away from my computer but isn't there a setting that controls the automatically created fillet anyway? Maybe I'm wrong...I don't know, I use custom countertops almost exclusively.

Not sure I understand you "back of the island" issue. Can you not simply modify the face items for the back of the cabinet, use a wall, use a polyline solid, use a custom countertop, or maybe use a very shallow cabinet for whatever your needs might be? Maybe it would help if you were to post an example.

For the material issue... Use the material painter in Object mode, or even room or plan mode for that matter and change all the component materials at once.

Lots of suggestions when I have enough time to sit down and write them up. For starters though, you can easily create a blind corner by... A. Setting your defaults to automatically create blind corners. Edit: Just got back to my computer and I see that automatically created blind corners do indeed display incorrectly in the schedule. Never noticed that but I also don't do them that way... B. My preferred method...Adjusting the left or right stile widths... C. You can build them like most manufacturers would build them anyway...with an opening, separation, or blank area on the blind comer side.

Are you sure you're referring to actual hatching or are you perhaps just referring to the fill? If its the fill you're referring to, you'll need to check "Print In Color" in the Print Layout dbx. The Walls, Hatching layer only controls hatches that are added via Build>Wall>Hatch Wall.

View>Scrollbars Make sure you have it checked/toggled on.