Alaskan_Son

That was my point. We already can set the direction.

I haven't found this to be the case. What I have found impossible to control though is the label of the joist direction line...

Yes you can. Just set it as a room divider or another wall type set to be nothing but a gap.

Yep. Been discussed ad nauseam but in a very small nutshell... Revit...more expensive for full version, way overkill and much slower for average residential projects. More powerful though if you are doing a lot of commercial or complex/highly "modern"/free form residential. Sketchup...cheaper, maybe slightly easier to use for some things, but requires a crapload of plugins and add-ons to do what Chief can do OOB. Also slower IMO when comparing completed 3D models and 2D output apples to apples. AutoCAD...Really a 2D CAD app even though there's a 3D version. Kinda spendy for what you get but it still seems to be the standard for a lot of drafting shops. I think this is slowly dying though and unless you're already heavily invested in it or working for a company that requires it, I see no reason to start down that road. A lot of us use one or more of the above in addition to Chief to either supplement capabilities or for different projects. Chief is a good program though and I personally think its probably the best software out there for average to mid range higher end residential. Especially for smaller shops. And although a lot of guys use multiple software platforms, I think Chief really can do just about all of it.

You bet! Actually on closer inspection, I think that particular one is actually exactly the same as "Flux Architect"...at least the upper case letters anyway..

NO

I don't think you'll find any way to get that SHX font outside using AutoCAD. These aren't exactly the same and they dont have the same sketchy multi-line quality but here are another couple alternatives to Chief Blueprint, Flux, and Graphite Light... Fonts.zip And here's one more that's kinda interesting but its all caps only... architect.zip

Without seeing the plan, it's hard to tell fro sure, but if you can't get it figured out otherwise, try changing the overall height of one of the stair sections by maybe just 1/16" so that the 2 sections are no longer identical. They have to be identical in order to automatically wrap.

Hey Mike. Here's a quick video with a few tips that may help you out.... and here's another one I made a while back that also has some decent tips in it...

I'm not sure I really follow with a lot of what you said Mark, but regarding this statement... "Got incorrect result when width<9' and included 3/4” (1.75 read F3xx; 3.75 read F5xx; until 9”) Tried a bunch of stuff, read about rational, value.ceil, value.floor (have to re-read all that a few times, don't get it exactly but finally figured out they did not refer to the default room Eventually changed (value.ceil +1) to (value.floor +1) and everything works fine. I don't understand ?" value.ceil is simply rounding your value up to the nearest whole number and converting it to an integer. value.floor is simply rounding your value down to the nearest whole number and converting it to an integer.

3 ways... 1. Use macros created by Joe, myself, or others. 2. Create your own custom macros 3. Just create your desired text box in plan and send it to layout using a very small layout window. You just have to make sure your text box in plan is in a nice and stable position.

Polylines

I can't seems to figure out the difference between these 2 Ruby object attributes... visible_length and perimter Do any of you happen to know what the difference is...if there even IS a difference?

Post the plan.

I think most people have entirely missed the point of this thread. Here is the original post... I think the goal was to encourage OUR direct participation in the form of trying to influence these various manufacturers by directing them to Chief, not to simply suggest which manufacturers we want.

Sounds like you either need to change this setting... or adjust that orange color so that its a little darker than what you have i...till it crosses the threshold from "white" territory into "black" territory.

The fill color for those callouts is controlled by whatever layer the camera is on. Change the color for that layer and the callout fill will change as well.

Block them. Either marquis select or Control/Shift select, click Make Architectural Block, and then click Add To Library.

In general, we haven't used copper in probably 20 years with the exception of exposed pipes. We do a lot of remodel work and I don't recall ever seeing a pex leak. We find copper failures all the time though (electrolysis, hydrolysis, etc) Having said that, the 2 things that ARE worth considering... 1. Some people fear chemicals leaking from the plastic over time. The same can be said for copper too though to a certain extent. 2. You can put power to a copper line to melt it it ever freezes. The same cannot be done with Pex.

Here's another alternative (just posted over in the Tips and Techniques forum too)... Johnny's door.calibz EDIT: I should have mentioned in the video that you will probably want to set stretch planes in the appropriate places if you want to use your new symbol for additional widths. In this particular example, you would probably want to set a couple to either side of the center stile... You could set additional stretch planes for height and depth too if you want.

Totally.

Here are a couple other alternatives/workarounds for grid lines that I posted a little while back... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/8008-custom-reference-planes-grid-lines-or-guide-lines-that-display-on-all-floors/?do=findComment&comment=70525 https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/8715-section-planes-grid-lines-guide-lines-guide-planes-etc/?do=findComment&comment=76649

Build>Roof>Edit All Roof Planes

I use them....sometimes. Depends on the job. It's six of half and one dozen of the other...That's right, you heard me.

He's 15, and no components, all from scratch. To be fair though, he did get the design from an actual Lego design (you know, those little instruction books they send with those little kits you buy).