Alaskan_Son

You're very welcome Ross : )

Okay then. Here's one I just made up... Pantry Doors.calibz No pressure at all, but if it works for you and helps you out, maybe just consider sending me a small donation at paypal.me/AlaskanSons Its all good either way...I've wanted one of these in the past anyway and I'm sure it will come in handy again.

Check your second floor Larry. If you drew them in an elevation view you may have had the second floor active when you drew them...therefore placing them on the second floor.

Ya, I realized that. My point still stands. Your polylines aren't actually connected. Here's a quick video...

or...is it possible your polyline isn't actually closed? Try going around and checking your connections or maybe try clicking Close Polyline. I opened that DWG up and noticed that not all the perimeter polylines are actually connected.

Are you looking for something like this without all the extra fluffery.?

This type of roof can definitely be done almost completely automatically. Here's a quick example. Note that you can either break the wall like I did on the top OR you can use the Gable/Roof Line tool...

Also, I would really recommend you consider going through the user guide, possibly reading the manual, and most of all...checking the help files via Help>Launch Help. More often than not it will not only answer your specific question but will help you to learn the program's nuances much more effectively. Here's one of the topics that comes up for trusses... Drawing Trusses Trusses cannot be generated automatically: the must be manually drawn and then replicated. All trusses are drawn similar to the way CAD lines are and can be drawn in floor plan view only. See Draw Line. To draw and replicate trusses 1. Select the either the Floor/Ceiling Truss or Roof Truss tool, then click and drag within either a floor/ceiling platform or one or more roof planes. • Roof trusses seek an exterior wall and adjust their length automatically. • Floor/Ceiling trusses will snap to the wall surfaces, the exterior surface of a wall’s Main Layer, as well as to a variety of CAD-based objects, and can be drawn to any length. 2. Reposition the truss: • Floor/ceiling trusses are often positioned relative to an exterior wall or Framing Reference Marker . See Framing Reference Markers. • Roof trusses are can be positioned over a gable end wall or at the ridge end of a hip. 3. Open the truss’s specification dialog and edit its settings to meet your needs. See Roof Truss Specification Dialog or Floor/Ceiling Truss Specification Dialog. 4. Make multiple copies of the truss at specified intervals using the Multiple Copy edit tool. The copies of Roof Trusses automatically conform to the structural conditions in their new locations. As a result, replicated Roof Trusses and their labels may be different from the original. See Truss Labels. Unlike Roof Trusses, Floor/Ceiling Trusses do not conform to new structural conditions when they are either moved or copied. SeeMoving Trusses. To replicate trusses using Multiple Copy 1. Select the truss to be copied in floor plan view. 2. Click the Multiple Copy edit button. 3. Click the Multiple Copy Interval edit button to open the Multiple Copy dialog. See Multiple Copy. 4. Enter the correct spacing in the All Trusses box. Once set, click OK. 5. Select the truss and use the Move edit handle to drag it perpendicularly. The pointer becomes a four-headed arrow when it is over the Move handle. 6. New trusses appear as you drag. Drag as far as necessary to produce all desired trusses. Each truss is created according to the particular Roof/Ceiling/Truss Base planes above and below it.

You have to build a roof first...and THEN build your trusses. Your plan doesn't have a roof.

Here's a quick video with a workaround you can use when no other solution seems to fix the problem. In short though...unlock the roof trim layer and manually modify the molding...

You're welcome. I don't quite know why that area needed a bearing line either. I wasn't too familiar with the plan though. There's probably some root cause that I missed, but the bearing line seemed to do the trick.

Hey Steve, If I studied it for enough hours I'm sure I'd probably find a better solution, but here's a quick video going over that method I mentioned...

I don't have time to get into it right now but that's a tricky one Steve. In short though, you need to use some invisible walls to separate that little area of the garage underneath the cantilever. It's the garage ceiling that's actually causing the problem. The garage ceiling framing is controlled by the floor above unless there is no floor above. You just need to change it so that there is no floor above the main garage area. Either that or remove the garage ceiling structure by deleting that framing layer.

I would personally recommend you don't screw around with the box window tool and instead build it using other methods.

I sent in a request quite a while back asking Chief to change this behaviour. It's really very silly. I would have actually assumed that was what the problem was except that in the original post it said "...the plate is aligned to the inside of the wall...". Anyway, the rule Chief seems to work with is this... So long as the foundation wall's main layer is located anywhere beneath the main layer for the wall above, the sill plate will center itself beneath that wall's main layer...unless the wall's main layer is thinner than the sill plate in which case I believe the sill plate will default to the outside edge of the foundation . We really need a lot more control over sill plates and sill plate placement. I find myself needing to manually modify those more and more. Anyway...if you want to leave auto framing turned on you can try using a wall definition like this... There may be other solutions too but that's probably as good as any.

To answer the original question though, how I create those extra members totally depends on how and where they are being used. I often prefer to check "Retain Wall Framing" and cut, copy, rotate, extend, trim, and otherwise modify framing directly in the wall detail.

Actually you are both wrong...and right. It goes onto your Current CAD Layer whatever that might be.

Can you post that plan? At least a stripped down version?

Are you possibly mixing up CAD Detail Management with CAD Block Management??

No...I was actually working in a blank plan with almost nothing in it except for 2 small symbols and maybe 2 matching CAD blocks. I think mine was a freak bug caused by the fact I was doing some pretty extreme things with the sizing of the symbol. Actually I had other bugs showing up during that process too. I didn't really explore it much because it honestly didn't surprise me that what I was doing might be causing the program to freak out. I had a symbol that was 0"x0"x0" and I was playing with various bounding box and stretch planes for that symbol. Anyway, it's a bit too much to go into but suffice it to say, my particular problem was definitely different.

You can also "Set affinty" in Windows Task Manager... You can control core usage for any and all tasks/apps this way.

I can't speak fro the OP but when I had that line showing up it wasn't actually anything in the plan. It was more akin to a cross-hair or temporary dimension that only showed up for short period during the actual zooming. While I would zoom (either in or out...don't remember which) with my mouse wheel it would all the sudden shoot out across the screen exactly like the OP shows. If I were to zoom back the opposite direction it would go away. I could go back and forth in that "magnification zone" and it would appear, disappear, and reappear. It certainly was NOT an item in the plan and could not be "followed". Now the OP's case may be different, I'm not sure. Mine was definitely bug like though.

Funny you bring that up. I've never once seen that before but I had it happen to me today. I was making a very small custom symbol and I lost track of it in the plan. For a little while it seemed EVERYTHING had disappeared and all I could occasionally get while zooming in and out was that single dark line you show. It just seemed like one of those freak things so I didn't investigate but i just thought I'd confirm. If you've gone crazy...you're not alone.

Years ago we framed many many cheap duplexes with that overlap just like that. It takes care of the shear transfer, the flashing, and the trim all that same time. It's really a very efficient and cost effective method. Now it's attractiveness may be up for debate.

And Option #4. Simply use the Delete Surface tool to temporarily delete the glass faces for those vector views. This might actually be the quickest and easiest option. Yep...this is probably what I will usually do from now on unless I need more accurate shadows in which case I think option #2 is better. This only took 4 clicks...