Alaskan_Son

It's not that simple. There are several ways a person might build a foundation with a brick veneer above... •They could use a poured wall foundation, a CMU wall, or pour a slab on grade...Any of those 3 with or without a brick ledge where the concrete supports the brick veneer •They could use any of the above foundation types and use angle iron instead of extending the foundation •...and I'm sure there are tons of other methods beyond those 9 In addition to the many construction techniques there are several different ways to make walls properly align with foundation walls too. You can do as I suggested and adjust the "Foundation To" layer but, you can also... •Use the foundation offset •Adjust your foundation wall definition to change what is defined as a main layer and what is defined as an exterior layer •Adjust your normal walls to change what is defined as a main layer and what is defined as an exterior layer In addition to all that you can also manipulate your walls by calling walls on multiple floors foundation walls (not something I've done very often). So...the OOB wall definition you mentioned could be used in any number of scenarios. At the end of the day it just completely depends on exactly what you need to draw up and what works best for your particular situation. You just need to change the appropriate settings accordingly.

No no no. All you have to do is change the Foundation To Exterior Of Layer to the Fir Stud wall layer. Easy as that. Read back through my post again and see if it makes more sense the second time around.

I was actually just about to respond to this too. I think you found the right culprit but its not stopping the align tool from working. A person just has to understand how the align tool works with foundation walls. When the wall below is set to a foundation wall and you try to align to that foundation wall, its the Foundation To Exterior Of layer that will align to the Main layer of the foundation wall below...Or visa versa; if you select the foundation wall and align with wall above, that foundation wall's Main layer will align with the Foundation To Exterior Of layer for the wall above.

I think Glenn's answer is probably what you're looking for and is important to understand regardless because all other resizing of that wall uses this setting. That Resize About Layer is the location within the wall assembly around which the wall is generated. Just think of drawing walls as a series of single lines. The wall is simply expanded from that line.... NOTE: All the exterior walls in the examples above were drawn clockwise and the interior wall was drawn bottom to top. The direction you draw your walls in is important to understand as it determines which side of the line the wall is generated on as well as which direction the interior and exterior layers are facing when the wall is initially drawn. In order to efficiently use those settings you may find it helpful to Reverse Layers of a wall from time to time and you may want to toggle between different Resize About options depending on what you're drawing. A couple other notes too: As Robert pointed out you can also use Temporary Dimensions. You can either use them visually or by clicking on them and changing them while the wall is selected. I think its important to note that those temporary dimensions get their length based on the Resize About setting though. You can of course also change the length of the wall in the wall dbx as well as by using normal dimensions that are snapped to the wall but you may also explore using the tab input method while drawing your walls. Just click to start the wall, hit tab while dragging, and enter the desired length/angle You may have already understood much of that but I thought I'd spell it out for anyone who doesn't. Hope that helps.

When I see stuff like that I usually just close the program down and then when I start it back up I just run a library update. I think Chief typically makes sure to download anything that's missing.

Do a Save As of your first plan, delete all your annosets except the one you want to export, and Export Annotation Sets. Now open the second plan and Import Annotation Sets. I think the problem is that you'll likely end up with a bunch of other defaults that get imported too. I think the Export/Import Annotations Sets tool could use a lot of work.

Nice find Glenn. I'll definitely have to remember that one. Thanks.

Here's a quick video for whatever it's worth...

Thanks Chop I certainly do like that tool, no doubt about it.

I assume the OP meant "Show Length" and "Show Angle" (if I remember the correct terminology). My guess is that the text style is currently just too small to see. Select the line, check what layer it's on, and change the text style for that layer to something with a much larger text height.

I think I agree. We should have a preference for where that "Special Snapping" occurs at walls. Me for example? I would want that ledger over the top of the wall sheathing. The OP? He wants it at the framing layer. I don't think I've ever seen a situation where mounting it to the face of the exterior cladding surface was the way to go though (except maybe if the cladding and exterior sheathing are the same layer (i.e. T1-11).

I don't know about that. I think that the roof should be broken and reshaped in many instances. It could easily be argued in this particular instance that the whole roof plane edge in question should be dragged to that location anyway.

Doug, To date I have yet to find a way to "trick" Chief and put anything other than general framing members and CAD into a wall framing detail. I think your best bet at this point would be to do this: Create an elevation view that includes those object you have already drawn up. Set this camera up on the INTERIOR side of the wall in question. Create a CAD Detail From View of that camera. Trace over the line work as necessary to create some new closed polylines to represent those objects and add fills as necessary. NOTE: Depending on the object type you used to create those objects (slabs for example) you may be able to simply take a cross section and use the Auto Detail tool to automatically produce some filled polylines for yourself. Copy and Paste Hold Position all the CAD items you need into your wall framing detail. Next time you run into this you may be better off drawing any necessary items right in the wall framing detail using framing members if possible (which will then also show in 3D). Hope that helps.

There may be another way, but as far as I know, the only thing you can do is this: Open the roof plane and check "No Special Snapping". Drag the roof plane so that it snaps to your framing layer and then drag it a little further than that by exactly the distance of your fascia. You may or may not also want to break the roof plane edge and drag the overhanging sections of that same edge one way or another. Build framing for at least that roof plane. Hope that helps.

No. I do it all the time.

I'm afraid you've already heard my input. If you still don't get it, I'm sorry, but you may have to put a little more effort into following our directions. Jonathan's directions were good whether or not he used the exact same appliance or not (by the way, I don't recall the file format being part of your question either), and I think my directions were pretty good as well. P.S. Please remember that everyone here is donating their own personal time to help out. Its a little frustrating and insulting even when a person takes a bunch of time to help spell out an answer for you through multiple posts, or takes time to make you a custom video for you and you either don't even respond, convey no gratitude, or worse yet...delete the thread that another user had invested so much time and energy responding to (which it appears you may have done with the previous oven thread). I'd just suggest that you maybe try and be a little more considerate in the future if you want to continue to receive free professional expertise and guidance. Unfortunately the number of people that seem to value other people's time and energy on these online forums seems to be dwindling at best and it makes it rather difficult to justify spending our otherwise valuable time helping out.

I agree. This isn't something you can do in Chief; HOWEVER, I do think those 3D DWG files can be quite useful. I could have been a little more efficient with some of this stuff but hopefully this at least gives you something to work with...

Tools>Project Information

This feels like deja vu. I think Jonathan gave you a very good answer in the last thread. As I recall, he basically suggested the same method I used in the video I made you for the apron sink situation. Go back and take another look. I think the answer to your problems is to learn how to adjust the 2 side stiles either directly or by splitting face items vertically.

Bryan, I only tested very quickly, but maybe try changing your drawings margins. They seem to be set to some very odd dimensions... I just changed them both to zero and I don't seem to be having any problem printing your drawing without any of the problems you described.

Joe, I'm only saying that there is a way to get those things into the material list and there is a way to attach some additional information. That's all. It's not perfect, but it can certainly be done. I should have also noted that a person can also just add any desired info. for the object(s) directly to the material list itself. There are plenty of situations that could benefit from leaving the object as a primitive rather than converting to a symbol so it's good to know there are ways to do that and still include the object(s) in the material list.

You may not get a Components dbx but you can block the solid, open that block dbx, and under Schedule and Material List you can check Treat As One Object. This will allow you to utilize the Object Information fields to more usefully populate your material list.

I'm not sure I one hundred percent understand this, but just in case… You can actually use point-to-point move like I think you might be talking about. Select your object, click point to point, and then click on any two points in the plan and your object will be moved by exactly that amount and in that same direction. In other words, the two points do not have to be related to your existing object at all. You could for example snap your block to the edge of your wall, click point to point, and then use the edge of your wall adjacent to another properly positioned existing block and the center of the same existing block. Your SELECTED block will be moved that same distance and therefore right into position.

There are bajillions of ways to deal with centering objects like this. Using an insertion point is just the one that seemed to fit the bill best at first thought. A few other things I could also see using/exploring... - Copy/Paste in place an already centered block and slide it into position. - Placing your blocks in the front drawing group. - Centering on wall and then using the tab method to offset the item the appropriate distance. - Creating and using an actual 3D object along with origin offsets or other tricks to allow the object to snap to a known constant. This is one of my preferred methods as it increases the accuracy of your 3-D model as well. - Drawing temporary lines, boxes, or circles to snap to. - Using the tab method to relocate an existing object a specific distance, snapping to that object, and then moving both back over the same distance. - Drawing your objects on a different floor where you have something better to snap to and then cutting and pasting in place on the appropriate floor. - Using ALDO to temporarily turn off layers. - Using a Distributed Object Polyline …and I'm sure the list could go on. I think it's just one of those situations where you will have to find the method or combination of methods that works best for your workflow and/or for the particular situation.

Just use an insertion point. Offset the insertion point so that you can center it or even snap it to some constant...wall layer, wall center, or whatever works for you.