Alaskan_Son

You can do this for a lot of labels by placing your custom macro into the default label, but currently we don't have a default label for layout boxes. Until we do, I'm afraid you just have to do these one page at a time.

You don't need to recess the door at all. Like I alluded to earlier, you might need to increase the rough opening dimensions. Chief will only cut interior wall layers around the door back as far as that rough opening setting, so if your molding profile is 1.25" wide then you'll need to increase the rough opening to 1.25" as well. Again, you shouldn't actually need to recess the doors or windows at all though.

No reason to pad anything, and you actually don't even need to mull anything. The key settings are: Sash Depth and inset Frame Depth and Inset Casing Overlap (needs to be negative) The biggest downsides are that the window doesn't actually get a framed wrap using this method so you might want to downsize your windows to account for this. Pick your poison I suppose. The alternatives take a lot longer.

In order to make this work, the frame and inset also have to be adjusted. This is one of the key setting though for sure. It's just not the only necessary setting.

I think he's trying to get rid of those deep mullions Mick. Look at how Eric did his.

The best solution IMO really depends on what you need to draw them up for. Accurate section? Accurate elevations? Simple 3D?

I don't think he would mind either way : )

I don't think so. If you're in a CAD Detail, there's really no point in cluttering up your layers since the CAD only exists in that view. All that's really necessary in my opinion for CAD Details is to use the proper scale for your text. Using an Active Default with the proper scaling would have likely been the quickest way to draw it, but it's not a big deal to just set the height either. I personally find myself changing my mind on scale sometimes depending on how much room I have on my page(s) and so I too simply just manually change the size of text and arrows sometimes.

Did you try it? Someone should just try it. If you draw a piece of molding using the basic shape and orientation I showed, it will actually inset back into the wall. It has nothing to do with recessing the door or window. In fact, you could even use the same method for the base trim if you wanted. It would still require a pony wall though in order to automate the groove.

The pony wall just needs to have a reduced or removed interior drywall layer is all. And P.S. If you use a casing with a profile kinda like this... along with an appropriate rough opening dimension around the door, you can actually get the automatic recess too. Adding a custom color in the groove around the door isn't so auto using this method though... Okay, I'm done with this particular discussion for now. WAY too easy to spend too much time messing around with and discussing the methods for this type of thing.

No need for the negative offset if you use the pony wall approach if the molding is supplied by the room.

Update video card driver. If that doesn't fix it, possibly roll back video card driver. Could also just be an insufficient video card, not sure. At any rate, you should be able to fix no matter what by opening those offending windows and doors, clicking on the label tab, and selecting "Hide In This View". This can be made easier and quicker by temporarily dragging/relocating the camera so that you can actually see and select the offending objects or by simply using the Delete Surface tool.

Go to the second floor and make that room "Open Below".

Sorry David, I don't think there is any "easy" way. All the methods are going to be pretty time consuming. One of those situations where you have to ask yourself how important it really is to model in 3D.

Hi Casey, I have personally used molding lines (along with custom moldings and molding symbols), and architectural blocks for this type of thing where most all the necessary parts and pieces are distributed automatically when the molding lines are resized and they display like we want in plan view as well... It's not something I'm going to spend the time or energy to spell out here on the forum, and it wouldn't be free, but shoot me an email if you want to discuss further and we can set something up. Here's a quick tip for your specific question on the house though: Symbol... Molding Polyline (no molding assigned)... Architectural Block with shelving layer turned off and both block and molding layers turned on)... One object to keep track of and only one line displayed.

I always just draw a polyline and then use polyline subtraction to remove a section of the roof from the middle--thereby breaking into 2.

Even when we know how it's done, its nice to see it done in a clean, orderly way. It's refreshing and reminds us how it could and should be done. And for people who don't know how its done? That much more helpful. Good job.

Doesn't have to be an ortho view. It could be any non-cross section/elevation camera.

Terrains are all about: Giving Chief the correct elevation data to work with Giving Chief enough elevation data to work with Not giving Chief conflicting or confusing elevation data (i.e. overlapping data or data placed too close together) Understanding the difference between defining your terrain (i.e. elevation data) and modifying the defined terrain (i.e. terrain modifiers).

I really think you're asking in the wrong place. Completely depends on your climate, the home's construction, the lengths of the various runs, the sizing of the ducts, heating/cooling units specs, etc., etc. This is a question for your mechanical contractor or mechanical engineer IMO.

This is a confusing statement. I think it's worth clarifying that a wall set to be a Terrain Retaining Wall includes a Terrain Break as part of the wall itself. There should be no reason to have both. Now if you're talking about a Terrain Wall or a normal wall/railing along with a standalone Terrain Break, that's a different thing.

Yep. That's a strange one.

Nice job Steve. Not sure the quality of your videos is good for my self esteem, but thanks for sharing

The thing new users typical miss is that you have to select the edge that you want to join to another edge. Next click Join Roof Planes, and lastly, pick the edge that you want to join to.

2 problems jump out... 1. You have soffits set to be 6" thick. This may or may not be correct. 2. You have gable sub fascia that is the exact same height as the gable fascia. The subfascia should prolee be smaller than the fascia.