Alaskan_Son

Quick Tip: If you want to use information from the actual cabinet shelves in the model to create your CAD lines do the following to speed up the process... Either use the Delete Surface tool to delete the door front material OR set up a temporary camera that cuts into your cabinets. Once you have the actual shelving in view, create a CAD Detail From View. Group select all the shelf lines. Paste Hold Position back into your main elevation view. While the lines are still selected, change line style to dashed.

Easy to reproduce. Definitely seems to be an issue with Chief's handling of arcs that are part of solids in newer versions. In fact, you can create a similar object in X13 using the aforementioned boolean operations (finished object looks fine), save the plan, open in X15, and without making any changes, bullnose edge is wonky. For now, I would suggest converting that arc to a multiple segment polyline. Oh, and please report to tech support so it gets fixed.

Hahaha. That was actually what I was originally thinking of suggesting. The CAD tools had already been introduced to the conversation though so it seemed like that would ONLY be adding extra steps. Figured I'd throw something new out there : )

That would make sense if the goal wasn't convolution. Once we head down the path to saving steps, we're back to just drawing with walls in the proper manner.

I was able to simply select and delete. Not sure what might be happening on your end.

Okay, if we're talking about ridiculously convoluted and inefficient methods here's one for the pile: Click on the Polygon Shaped Deck tool. Set it to Define by: Sides, Number of Sides: 8, and Side Length: 60" Click on a blank area in your plan Select 3 of the walls and Point to Point Move where you want them on your plan. Open the walls up, uncheck Railing, uncheck No Locate, and change to your desired Wall Type.

I have some.

No. I'm sorry, but this isn't a good solution and there's a reason I personally didn't mention it. This will cause your foundation in that area to build up to the top of subfloor and it will remove your sill plate and it will also stop sub-floor from extending beneath your wall as it should.

It should be noted that this solution doesn't work if your wall doesn't isn't a symmetrical wall type since the tool reverses wall layers. It can also leave you chasing your tail if you want different doors reporting to opposite sides on a single wall. I assume you mean the invisible wall and not the window? If so, yes, I agree.

In addition to the tips @Joe_Carrick and @DBCooper already gave, I would also suggest you consider: That your Temporary Dimensions may not be measuring to the main layer and that your walls may not be the dimension that you're seeing. So, when you hit tab and enter 5' and see that the wall is 5'-2", you may be seeing the dimension of the wall's main layer and both the interior and exterior surfaces wrapping around the ends. That when you hit tab and enter a dimension, it's also important that you make sure the angle is correct. You might have entered 5' or 60", but if the angle wasn't 45 degrees then 5' could result in any number of different wall lengths. Going to your Default Settings>Walls>General Wall and changing your Resize About setting to be able to control which layer of your wall you're using to define the wall length while you're dragging out your walls. That the Lock settings inside your Wall Specification dialog aren't affecting anything once you close that dialog down. The only work for changes to affect changes made inside that dialog. If you want to set up a private training session, let me know. I think I could help you become a lot more proficient with some of the tools you're struggling with.

I could help you guys set systems up for that. Shoot me over an email if you're interested in hiring me to do so and we can start discussing the specifics.

Might not be the best solution, but once you're comfortable turning auto rebuild off, you can change that one foundation wall definition to something like this:

You're dealing with a different problem than you think. Your actual issue is that you have 2 identical posts in the same location. One of them is obeying the boolean command just fine. The other (the one you're not selecting) doe not. The "skin" you deleted was nothing more than that second post. By the way, if you ever decide you want to get any professional training/coaching, please let me know. I think I could help you dramatically improve your workflow.

I noticed that too, but I assumed that was on purpose. What if a person wants the floor inside the foundation?

I could probably help you set this up, but it would take more than offering a quick tip and as such I would need to be on the clock. Shoot me over an example plan via email if you're interested and I'll see if I can help you get it sorted.

No. I’m sorry, I don’t. Chief has a small handful of special functions that aren’t connected to any specific tool. Once you use that hot key for something else, I think you simply lose the capability in some cases.

There are a couple methods: 1. Edit that CAD Block and simply replace the triangle with this Unicode Symbol: ▲ It works because the symbol is a text object and so the solid "fill" is retained. 2. Set the Symbol's 2D Block to have a solid Black Fill. This will likely result in the circle being filled as well, so you'll need to also edit the CAD Block to break the circle. Easiest way to do this is to replace the circle with 2 arcs and then select one of them and click Disconnect Selected Edge.

If you're talking about those 2 side walls, then you have 2 things going on: The wall on the left is reversed. The walls aren't aligned but they're too far apart for the automatic align tools to become available. Slide them over closet to the 4" offset and the align tool should make itself available. If you simply rebuild the foundation though you should get the offset automatically.

There are a number of ways to create these, but its pretty easy to get a decent general representation by just using Floor Trusses and adjusting the top chord, bottom chord, and webbing dimensions. I just quick changed my joists to trusses in this current plan to show you what I mean:

The best solution depends a little on the specifics. Is the railing supposed to follow the slope or remain level? And is the roof a single plane or multiple planes?

As the guys mentioned above, the size of those callouts is being controlled by the size of the text inside them. Change to a Text Style using a smaller text size and the callout will get smaller as well. That's only a small part of the puzzle though. There are 2 other crucial elements at play. Open the Camera Specification dialog, click on the Plan Display tab, and take note of the following 2 settings: Text Below Line: If you have this set to Automatic, then per the Help files, the Text Below Line will be populated with "....the layout page Label if the selected view is sent to layout. If no layout page Label is specified, no automatic Text Below Line will be created.". This means that as soon as that camera view is sent to your layout page, it can automatically get populated with whatever you have entered in the Label field in your Layout Page Specification. This will add that extra text to your callout which will in turn make the callout bigger. Callout Size: If you have this set to Automatic, then the callout will get bigger with any added text. If you set this manually, the callout size won't change. The text however might start to overflow and partially obscure your callout.

You actually don't need to explode the bay window to get at the room. You can drop a Room Schedule into the plan, select that little room in the schedule and then click on either Find Object in Plan or Open Row Object(s).

Select your Terrain and look for a tool in your Edit toolbar called Make Terrain Hole(s) around Building(s). When you click that tool, it will automatically toggle the Hide Terrain Intersected by Building setting and simultaneously generate one or more polyline Terrain Holes to replace the automatic version(s). Once created just adjust or delete the unwanted hole(s) as necessary. Once you go this route though, just remember that you'll have to manually make changes to the holes along with any changes to the plan.

This is a really good solution Chop. One single object with a spacing setting that can be easily and very quickly changed right along with any changes to the grid settings. Not sure it matters though whether snaps are on or not when you first place the object since hatch patterns automatically start from the origin anyway.

I have this almost exact same problem with one of my projects right now. I went the direction of having 2 separate plans but I'm not convinced that was the best idea. Its been a notable hassle keeping the 2 files in sync when we start making changes. I think I should have used one plan along with Plan Views and CAD masks as necessary. The main reason I went the 2 plan route is that one version of my plan needed to show some ADU's and the other needed to not show them. Masking walls and cabinetry and such just seemed like too much of a pain. If I'm understanding correctly, you wouldn't have that particular problem.